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Derek92994's 700 Ser II White Oak conversion
- Thread starter laatsch55
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Just had to get a fan controller, I don't listen flat out loud all the time, so having variable fan speed comes in handy.
Purchased a Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB 6 channel fan controller. The ONLY one with analog dial adjustments, all the rest were touch screen, screw that. Much easier to use a dial or pot than a touch screen, finer adjustments also possible. Also had to purchase a cheap PC power supply as the fan controller requires both 5 and 12 volt input to run properly. This unit is designed to go into a computer case, but its for the amp so it is living next to the pre amp. The screen has 16 colors, 3 brightness settings, lcd back light on/off etc. Temp alarm, fan speed alarm and a few more features that I may or may not use.
I took pics of a few colors it does:
The controller also monitors, fan voltage, speed, and comes with 6 thermal probes to monitor temperature, you can put them anywhere you wish. I had to extend a couple of the probe cables so they would reach the back of the WOPL heatsink/transformer.
Reading 1: Room temp
Reading 2: Pre-Amp temp
Reading 3: WOPL Heatsink temp 1
Reading 4: WOPL Heatsink temp 2
Reading 5: WOPL Heatsink temp 3
Reading 6: WOPL Transformer temp
I dialed the fans down to about 700-800 rpm and cranked the WOPL as loud as my speaks would take. After a bit the heatsink temperature was heading towards 50 celcius, so I cranked the fans up to max speed which lowered the temp into the low to mid 40's. This is going to be even more handy when I obtain speakers that will require more power, therefore more heat to be managed. I'm not sure what temp is critical, will try and keep it below 50 if possible. This is still quite a safe temp in my opinion.
Fan 3 has a faulty speed sensor, it going to be returned for replacement, can't stand seeing those 0's. At $25 it should work properly.
Purchased a Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB 6 channel fan controller. The ONLY one with analog dial adjustments, all the rest were touch screen, screw that. Much easier to use a dial or pot than a touch screen, finer adjustments also possible. Also had to purchase a cheap PC power supply as the fan controller requires both 5 and 12 volt input to run properly. This unit is designed to go into a computer case, but its for the amp so it is living next to the pre amp. The screen has 16 colors, 3 brightness settings, lcd back light on/off etc. Temp alarm, fan speed alarm and a few more features that I may or may not use.
I took pics of a few colors it does:
The controller also monitors, fan voltage, speed, and comes with 6 thermal probes to monitor temperature, you can put them anywhere you wish. I had to extend a couple of the probe cables so they would reach the back of the WOPL heatsink/transformer.
Reading 1: Room temp
Reading 2: Pre-Amp temp
Reading 3: WOPL Heatsink temp 1
Reading 4: WOPL Heatsink temp 2
Reading 5: WOPL Heatsink temp 3
Reading 6: WOPL Transformer temp
I dialed the fans down to about 700-800 rpm and cranked the WOPL as loud as my speaks would take. After a bit the heatsink temperature was heading towards 50 celcius, so I cranked the fans up to max speed which lowered the temp into the low to mid 40's. This is going to be even more handy when I obtain speakers that will require more power, therefore more heat to be managed. I'm not sure what temp is critical, will try and keep it below 50 if possible. This is still quite a safe temp in my opinion.
Fan 3 has a faulty speed sensor, it going to be returned for replacement, can't stand seeing those 0's. At $25 it should work properly.
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I was asking the same question. LOTS of options out there!!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Other-Computer-Fans-Cooling-/3673/i.html
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Other-Computer-Fans-Cooling-/3673/i.html
Purty cool controller. Newegg has them listed for sixty bucks on the ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301865703584?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
Website:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002777
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301865703584?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
Website:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002777
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I took one of the fans back for replacement, they didn't do it, they claim it was reporting the speed correctly on their test bench. They are either lying or its intermittent. I had to buy another fan for $25 to solve the issue, now all speeds displaying correctly.
Did some hard driving last night and with the fans on max, it didn't get above 42 celcius. Some powerful cooling there and plenty of headroom for the future.
Did some hard driving last night and with the fans on max, it didn't get above 42 celcius. Some powerful cooling there and plenty of headroom for the future.
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Impressive Derek! I'm so happy your WOPL is everything you wanted and more buddy!
I'm really liking your fan set up, looks fantastic and does it's job, seems like just the ticket for my SAE. I'm a bit confused on how it is all wired up.
1. The fans run off a power supply? Does the company make them for US voltage?
2. The controller, same question as above.
3. So just two outlet plugs needed, one for the power supply and one for the controller?
Thanks!
I'm really liking your fan set up, looks fantastic and does it's job, seems like just the ticket for my SAE. I'm a bit confused on how it is all wired up.
1. The fans run off a power supply? Does the company make them for US voltage?
2. The controller, same question as above.
3. So just two outlet plugs needed, one for the power supply and one for the controller?
Thanks!
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I am having trouble getting notifications of this thread, hotmail is messing with me. Sorry for delayed reply.
I use an ATX computer power supply, you can pick up cheap ones for under $30. The fan controller uses a 4 pin molex connector which most pc power supplies have. This gives 5 and 12 volts to the controller and allows it to operate as normal. Only 1 power outlet required from the wall. There would certainly be power supplies in US voltage, they are the same as a pc power supply.
I short out the green and black pin on the atx power connector using a paper clip and tape it over. So the power supply stays on, this is how a pc would tell the unit to turn on and stay on.
I use an ATX computer power supply, you can pick up cheap ones for under $30. The fan controller uses a 4 pin molex connector which most pc power supplies have. This gives 5 and 12 volts to the controller and allows it to operate as normal. Only 1 power outlet required from the wall. There would certainly be power supplies in US voltage, they are the same as a pc power supply.
I short out the green and black pin on the atx power connector using a paper clip and tape it over. So the power supply stays on, this is how a pc would tell the unit to turn on and stay on.
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Strange behavior from meters after Light Board and Left Meter install:
When running Left channel on its own, Left Meter Works Normally
When running Right Channel on its own, Both Meters run at the same levels
When running Both channels, Left Meter appears lazy and doesn't move much, right meter operates normally.
When running Left channel on its own, Left Meter Works Normally
When running Right Channel on its own, Both Meters run at the same levels
When running Both channels, Left Meter appears lazy and doesn't move much, right meter operates normally.