Double WOPL with Squeeze Builds by TheWiffer

[WOPL Sniffer]

Series I 400s never had power switches Perry unless someone added one. Those plugs your talking about do look good! They are like the ones I am talking about. They are flush mount and slightly rounded tops right?

Those plugs be the one Ron. Got a fist full for 3 bucks.....

 

[Gepetto]

You aint kiddin Joe..... MTPI rocks......

Hi Perry
Folks that use this method no longer complain how hard it is to line the leads up. You can feel when they find home and then they slide right in.

 

[laatsch55]

Yep....

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I was worried about sucking up the electrons and making them stick to the top of the can.... LOLOLOLOL

 

[laatsch55]

A little twist of the big knob to the right cures that...

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

FUNNY, mine don't have knobs.... I guess it runs WFO all the time.

 

[Northwinds]

I was worried about sucking up the electrons and making them stick to the top of the can.... LOLOLOLOL

I just blew Dr Pepper all over the monitor, thanks for that LMAO!!!

 

[laatsch55]

The big knob on the pre....

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

You GI's are funny....

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Lee, on the LED board installation, it tells me to hook up the 8 wires on pads 1-16 which emanate from the amplifier. My amplifier has no wires emanating from it. The LED board has the pad number and a color of a wire that should go to it. There is nothing showing what I am supposed to hook up. I tried to explain this to Joe but he is not looking at the same thing I am. Please look at the schematic and the assembly instructions (Page 17 step 12 which says): And remember, I do not have these wires.

I also do not have the attenuator knob, volume knob or anything emanating out of the amp. I see no mention of meter drive signals coming from the amp.
12. [ ] Using the 22 AWG wire strippers, strip 1/8 to 3/16†from the end of each of the four meter wires and the eight wires that emanate from the amplifier electronics.

13. [ ] Using your soldering station, carefully solder the 4 meter wires to the upgrade LED Light Board at the locations labeled PAD8, PAD9, PAD12 and PAD13 as shown below in Figure 12 and

Figure 16. The illustrations show these entering from the solder side (non-silkscreen side) of the board and being soldered on the component side (silkscreen side) of the board in order to mimic

the assembly of the original light board. It really does not matter which side these wires are soldered on so you can reverse the entry and solder point if you desire (if wiring to PAD6, PAD7,

PAD10, PAD11 it is preferable to solder these wires in from the silkscreen side of the board).

a. PAD8 = RIGHT METER
+ (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD6 location,




you may use this location instead)

b. PAD9 = RIGHT METER
– (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD7 location,

you may use this location instead)

c. PAD12 = LEFT METER
+ (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD10 location,

you may use this location instead)

d. PAD 13 = LEFT METER
- (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD11 location,

you may use this alternate location instead)

14. [ ] Using your soldering station, carefully solder the eight amplifier wires to the LED Light

Board at the locations labeled PAD1, PAD2, PAD3, PAD4, PAD5, PAD 14, PAD15 and PAD16

 

[Gepetto]

Lee, on the LED board installation, it tells me to hook up the 8 wires on pads 1-16 which emanate from the amplifier. My amplifier has no wires emanating from it. The LED board has the pad number and a color of a wire that should go to it. There is nothing showing what I am supposed to hook up. I tried to explain this to Joe but he is not looking at the same thing I am. Please look at the schematic and the assembly instructions (Page 17 step 12 which says): And remember, I do not have these wires.

I also do not have the attenuator knob, volume knob or anything emanating out of the amp. I see no mention of meter drive signals coming from the amp.
12. [ ] Using the 22 AWG wire strippers, strip 1/8 to 3/16” from the end of each of the four meter wires and the eight wires that emanate from the amplifier electronics.

13. [ ] Using your soldering station, carefully solder the 4 meter wires to the upgrade LED Light Board at the locations labeled PAD8, PAD9, PAD12 and PAD13 as shown below in Figure 12 and

Figure 16. The illustrations show these entering from the solder side (non-silkscreen side) of the board and being soldered on the component side (silkscreen side) of the board in order to mimic

the assembly of the original light board. It really does not matter which side these wires are soldered on so you can reverse the entry and solder point if you desire (if wiring to PAD6, PAD7,

PAD10, PAD11 it is preferable to solder these wires in from the silkscreen side of the board).

a. PAD8 = RIGHT METER
+ (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD6 location,




you may use this location instead)

b. PAD9 = RIGHT METER
– (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD7 location,

you may use this location instead)

c. PAD12 = LEFT METER
+ (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD10 location,

you may use this location instead)

d. PAD 13 = LEFT METER
- (if your PL700B was originally wired to the PAD11 location,

you may use this alternate location instead)

14. [ ] Using your soldering station, carefully solder the eight amplifier wires to the LED Light

Board at the locations labeled PAD1, PAD2, PAD3, PAD4, PAD5, PAD 14, PAD15 and PAD16

Perry

Page 15 of the Backplane Board instructions says this in the table

[TABLE="width: 691"]
<tbody>[TR]
[TD]OUT1
[/TD]
[TD]15”
[/TD]
[TD]WHT
[/TD]
[TD]22
[/TD]
[TD]To WOA light board PAD16 (left channel input)
[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]

Page 16 of the Backplane Board instructions says this in the table

[TABLE="width: 691"]
<tbody>[TR]
[TD]OUT1
[/TD]
[TD]17”
[/TD]
[TD]RED
[/TD]
[TD]22
[/TD]
[TD]To WOA light board PAD1 (right channel input)
[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]

If you are not using the attenuator switch then ONLY 5 wires go to the light board. The other pads are NO CONNECT.

A ground wire goes from the single point ground to PAD4 of the light board

The 2 low voltage AC power wires from the transformer attach to PAD14 and PAD15

Those are the 5 wires.

Do you copy on this??

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Yeah, those are the only 2 wires I have. My point is, the directions are for just upgrading the LED board. Not building a whole new amp. Where do I get the other connections from?

 

[Gepetto]

Yeah, those are the only 2 wires I have. My point is, the directions are for just upgrading the LED board. Not building a whole new amp. Where do I get the other connections from?

Directly below Perry

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I'll give it a look..

 

[Gepetto]

Yeah, those are the only 2 wires I have. My point is, the directions are for just upgrading the LED board. Not building a whole new amp. Where do I get the other connections from?

There was a light board in the hulks that Lee had sent you. There will be 2 small gauge wires coming from the transformer up to the original light board. These are the 6V AC feed. They are the auxiliary winding off of the main transformer. The wires are usually green but sometimes they are gray.

In addition to these 2 AC wires, you need the red and white wire coming from the backplane and one ground wire coming from the star point ground.

 

[laatsch55]

I guess I just type to slow....

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I tried to tell you. No light boards or much else on the nuker hulks. I have nothing to go by.....

 

[laatsch55]

The wires going between the amp and the light board only number 5. 2 from the transformer for 6 VAC feed to pads 14, 15. I wre from the left output on the backplane to pads 16. i wire from the right output on the right backplane to pad 1. And lastly one wire from pad4-5 to the star ground.

 

[laatsch55]

You should have 2 long wires from the backplanes from the OUTPUT pads on the backplanes, those go to Pad1, and 16. The other wires you may have to splice going to the transformer. The wire from pad 4,5 will go to the bus bar between the caps.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Thank you Lee. That's what I was looking for. The guys upgrading got it easy. Building from a transformer and a couple screws is tough. I guess I need to also look at what they were doing on the original schematic and try to deduce what is going on with the WO schematic and try not to blow shit up.