Sansui 5000x fixer- uper

Ric27

Ric27

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Aug 4, 2014
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Location
Williamson Co. Tennessee
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Super Cool but don't know it.
talking to a guy that has a Sansui 5000X for sale on CL. Asking price $75. listed as partially dissembled to replace bulbs. I will have an opportunity to take a look at it and will be looking to see is it has the upgraded F6013 board.

Heres my question. he says that he replaced the bulbs that were out and they burnt out again soon after. Any ideas as to why that would happen other than wrong bulbs our some screw up installing them?

Ric:glasses1:
 
Could be the regulator board. But for less than 75 I'd pick it up. That vintage Sui has a fan base. And as aa parts unit could bring a lot more money than that. And with the folks around here and a service manual chances are good she can be resurrected ..
 
Ric27 said:
Heres my question. he says that he replaced the bulbs that were out and they burnt out again soon after. Any ideas as to why that would happen other than wrong bulbs our some screw up installing them?

Ric:glasses1:
Click to expand...

They may have not burned out, the connectors where they attach could be flakey or corroded. I replaced some bulbs in an old Sansui 5050 receiver and they worked for short while then went out again. If I tapped my hand on the top of the unit the lights would come on again.

It might not be the trouble, but it could certainly be.
 
Regulator Board

laatsch55 said:
Could be the regulator board. But for less than 75 I'd pick it up. That vintage Sui has a fan base. And as aa parts unit could bring a lot more money than that. And with the folks around here and a service manual chances are good she can be resurrected ..
Click to expand...

Is the Regulator Board the main board that I have been warned to make sure it is the upgraded one(F6013) (OK looking back see that is the Amplifier board I am referring to) How big a repair is the Regulator board?
Ric:glasses1:
 
Last edited:
flakey or corroded

Web Police said:
They may have not burned out, the connectors where they attach could be flakey or corroded. I replaced some bulbs in an old Sansui 5050 receiver and they worked for short while then went out again. If I tapped my hand on the top of the unit the lights would come on again.

It might not be the trouble, but it could certainly be.
Click to expand...

Now that is the kind of troubleshooting I am qualified to perform! Keep that kind of stuff coming.
 
5000x is mine

IMG_0613.jpgIMG_0614.jpgIMG_0615.jpgIMG_0617.jpgIMG_0618.jpg



Well I checked it out, ran it with a CD of Led Zeppelin, which I though was apropos little scratchy on the volume but sound OK considering the cheesy speakers. It has the proper F6013 amp boards, Wood box and all the parts I hope. Now what I ask myself. I know I want to clean all the control pods but I am not sure how to do that. I have attempted in the past with some success. But then I'm thinking maybe I should attempt to reassemble everything to see what I have and just where I stand. I really am not a electronics guy at all but not ham-fisted and am skilled with hand tools. I am open to help from anyone interested.
Ric:glasses1:
 
For Scratchy controls I would use [SIZE=+0]:

DeoxIT® D-Series - Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator[/SIZE]

You need to be able to get at the rotary controls and spray some into the opening of the pot body and work the controls back and forth a few times. You will have to read up on which cleaner and or lubricator you want to use though. I am sure others will have some suggestions also.
 
De-Oxit D-100 a few sprays in each pot and actuate it at least 50 times, followed by De-Oxit D-5 for rise.....I have had pots so bad I had to do this procedure more than once...
 
laatsch55 said:
De-Oxit D-100 a few sprays in each pot and actuate it at least 50 times, followed by De-Oxit D-5 for rise.....I have had pots so bad I had to do this procedure more than once...
Click to expand...

+1 on this.

If you don't want to spring for both DeoxIT D-100 and DeoxIT D-5 you can use the D-5 only. If the pot is exceptionally dirty the D-100 works very well. As Lee said it may take more than one cycle of cleaning to get the pot working well. I do an intermediate step and use DeoxIT Gold (G5) to condition the contacts. As the solvent will remove any lubrication that the pot had I sometimes use a tiny shot of DeoxIT Fader (F5) to replace it - after the G-5 has evaporated.

Arkay on AK has a good write up for this procedure and Mark (aka Mark the Fixer) added the second step of conditioning the contacts but I don’t think this is in the original write up.

There are a number of ways to go about this but bottom line is to get the contact clean and to replace removed lubricant. The Caig products are used a lot in the audio world but they are not cheap. I’ve used the D-5 for many years in cleaning contaminated contacts in connectors and it has worked very well in that capacity. The half dozen or so pieces of audio equipment and the dozen or so pieces of test equipment that I've cleaned the contacts using the Caig products have all worked out well.
 
powering up question

wanting to power up the unit to see which lights are not working (the reason the amp is dissembled) should there be a load (speakers) on the system before turning on the power?

Ric:glasses1:
 
If it takes the fuse type bulbs I may have some as I had to buy a dozen of so when I replaced a few in a Sansui receiver.
 
Ric27 said:
wanting to power up the unit to see which lights are not working (the reason the amp is dissembled) should there be a load (speakers) on the system before turning on the power?

Ric:glasses1:
Click to expand...

Only with tubes you need a load before powering on
 
Chassis Clean up

the entire chassis is covered with a moderate layer of crud. I woud like to atempt to clean it up. Could I get a run down on how to start with this? Blowing out with compressed air seems like a good place to start Yes/Now? If so then what because stuff looks a little more substantial that just dust.
Ric:glasses1:
 
If it's a receiver, be careful about filling the tuner scale with dust, however, if the glass plate can be removed I'd get the F&^% after it!!
 
Use some paper and masking tape and tape off the sensitive areas (Tuning circuitry and the front dial) then blow out the dust.
 
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