Solder Recommendation
- Thread starter Nick Danger
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Exacrly what I buy , but at my local electronics parts store it's only 27.10......course that spool I have is maybe a couple years old. I buy 5 at a time when i go, that way I can Jew the hottie that sells it there....same place I bought my weller WES 51.....for a 10% discount......me and the hottie go wayyyyyyyy back...she used to do dope...
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In addition to using the Kester 44 (SN63PB37) solder I'll use the Kester 186 RMA flux. This helps me get a nice even flow with consistency. I can still get a good solder joint without the flux but only if the components have been properly stored and the boards are clean. Given a preference I'd go with flux if it was available.
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Don't use the one you provided this link to. Use the one from the first link - see below.
You want the solder with the SN63PB37 ratio - this solder melts a couple of degrees above the temperature at which it solidifies. After the solder has flowed and the iron is removed the solder solidifies quickly - dependent upon the mass of the component and trace size.
You want the solder with the SN63PB37 ratio - this solder melts a couple of degrees above the temperature at which it solidifies. After the solder has flowed and the iron is removed the solder solidifies quickly - dependent upon the mass of the component and trace size.
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Do you know what type it is? Don't use anything corrosive or conductive. The Kester 186 flux residue after soldering is non-corrosive and non-conductive. It doesn't have to be removed which cuts down on cost for manufacturing but I always clean it off after soldering. The boards come out looking so much better when cleaned. We've seen older audio equipment that has resin coated boards from not being cleaned after assembly - not pretty.
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63/ 37- gotcha! Really like the idea of the Kester Flux Pen also, Dennis. Been using the "put a 'lil on a toothpick" method and may have to grab one of these down the road.
Lot of 60/ 40 for pinball repairs, Lee. Not the prettiest at times, I'll agree.
Lot of 60/ 40 for pinball repairs, Lee. Not the prettiest at times, I'll agree.
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I don't recommend using lead free solder for any electronic work: design, manufacturing or repair / modification.
Lead is an essential ingredient for reliable and quality, shiny solder joints.
There was a time when I had only lead free solder and pure lead solder to do a job. I had to mix the two together to avoid dull, dry solder joints that can easily crack and crumble.
There is a great potential for a phenomenon similar to dendrite growth known as tin whiskers that can cause circuit failure with lead free solder.
I would not trust any electronic equipment manufactured or serviced using lead free solder.
I believe that the RoHS banning lead in solder and cadmium in batteries in EU is totally misguided and irresponsible. Recycling and safe handling of such toxic metals should be the main focus.
Lead is an essential ingredient for reliable and quality, shiny solder joints.
There was a time when I had only lead free solder and pure lead solder to do a job. I had to mix the two together to avoid dull, dry solder joints that can easily crack and crumble.
There is a great potential for a phenomenon similar to dendrite growth known as tin whiskers that can cause circuit failure with lead free solder.
I would not trust any electronic equipment manufactured or serviced using lead free solder.
I believe that the RoHS banning lead in solder and cadmium in batteries in EU is totally misguided and irresponsible. Recycling and safe handling of such toxic metals should be the main focus.
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The 99% alcohol works well and it is easy to get. I use EnSolv but it is not compatible with some of the components used in audio such as the heat shrink wrapped electrolytic capacitors.
http://www.envirotechint.com/industrial-solvents/npb-solvents/ensolv/
http://www.envirotechint.com/industrial-solvents/npb-solvents/ensolv/
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