New profile posts

What's new Featured content New posts New media New media comments New resources New profile posts Latest activity
VSAT88
Dang, I just replied to my own post ! Sorry, have not used PM a lot and got all confused thinking you were asking me if I still had it ! Hell, I cant even remember why I asked you if you still had yours now...
VSAT88
Right beside me. I had a 200 C and fixedd it up real nice and sold it. Bought a 200 cx right after that that is probably a 8.5 out of 10. It is real nice.
Pure_Brew
Pure_Brew
I had a hum issue with the big relay and tried to run low DC to it , which got rid of it essentially. Unfortunately it wasn’t recommended as safe, because it was a live , transformerless circuit connected directly to the AC main. A few have asked about it but I didn’t share because of safety. I’ve had other issues with the amp so now it just sits. It was quite a beast and clean/ when it worked.
krellmk
i had a guy from the forum he sent me a email i did answer him this morning i went to the trouble and dug the the thing out he hasn't reply i even sent him pic of the unit i just need to get this out so my wife can stop with the nag too much stuff and they just sitting there not using i can send you pic if you send me you # i believe it kinna cheap to ship cuz i saw a guy Cali selling one and the shipping was 31 buc
D
dcruze here - please ping me at dcruze@sunrise-systems.com
wattsabundant
As for DC protection, I sell an output relay board that drops in the 400 without any drilling. Cost is $114. Everybody at this site refers to it as DCP. Rather than comment further I'm sure somebody else will do that for me. Installation is not that difficult, but it does require a soldering iron.
BlueCrab
I want to adjust the timing of the DCP. Currently the relay energizes in about 3 seconds. My PL4000 preamp does not output a signal for about 15 seconds, and then when it does, goes through a short 1-2 second transient where it outputs a 0.7 vdc signal. This is enough to trigger the DCP (and I'm glad it does!). So I'd like to delay the DCP for say 20 seconds to allow the PL4000 to do its transient thing.
wattsabundant
Ed,

Thanks for your post on 200. It drives me crazy to see people try to troubleshoot something with no idea what they are doing. Compound that with good intentions from people who troubleshoot by changing out all of the transistors. Then the person doing the repair goes about doing whatever they intended to do regardless of what advice has been given.

Do you know why the 200 had non symmetrical clipping?
Peter S
Hi Glen, Thanks again for calling. My email is hennioriginals@gmail.com
Regards, Peter
wattsabundant
I'm glad to hear the relay board did it's job. I rarely get any feedback about it. The relay is considered sacrificial when it protrects the speakers. Inspect it for signs of welded contacts. If it needs replaced let me know. Consider putting two 4" muffin fans wired in series, one on each channel if you're going to run it hard. When wired in series, the fans run at half speed and are quiet.
Peter S
Hi BlueCrab; thanks again for your input, it is clear to me that you know your stuff! As your entry #275 shows, I still measure 60 VAC. The White Oak mods call for the ctr tap to be connected to the chassis at one point only; the screw formerly holding the terminal strip between the left channel heat sinks. I have just measured the assembled amp again; 60 VAC is on the chassis when the line cord ground N/C.
BlueCrab
BlueCrab
Hi Peter. There is no reason to connect the signal ground (which is the center tap of the secondary) to the chassis. If you isolate the signal ground from the chassis (that screw) and make your measurement from the chassis to line cord ground, there should be 0 vac (and 0 vdc) since the chassis is now completely isolated from all circuits. The amp will still work fine.
BlueCrab
BlueCrab
And you can now connect the chassis to the line cord ground if you desire. You will, of course, want to check which configuration gives you the least hum pickup. But make that measurement with the inputs shorted (not open) to signal ground (not the chassis). Hope this helps.
ElectronMan
Still running around, been a busy year, nice to have time to visit areas of interest. Drop me a message if you like.
wattsabundant
With reference to the dual 500, did you install a soft start? I ask because I've done a fair amount of research on inrush current on 700's and haven't seen a need for it there. I tend to think the impedance of the transformer limits the current to safe values. Note that the stock rectifier can withstand more than 150 amps.
  • Like
Reactions: Peter S
grapplesaw
grapplesaw
Hi Don. I have not done the soft start yet. I have some kits coming to do it including remote on off built in.
The reason why I am doing it is I have updated to 50 amp bridge rectifier and 33000uf caps. When you turn it on I had to go to slow blow fuses and the sucker busses for a bit.
As for 700 ‘s I want to try one as it has built in safety low voltage DC thermal temp switches. This replaces the 110v switch
G
Hello I just bought a dead TEAC A-3300 SX and this repair appears to have already been made once before. I will have to troubleshoot the problem further. But this is valuable info Thanks. Any thoughts about some common shorts to look for this deck is like new, I want to save it. Someone, probably a less experience tech has been through it the rectifier board had a plastic cover missing on a MY2-01 or MY3.
Back
Top