The Phoenix: Jer rebuilt WOPL 500

[jbeckva]

Made it all day without tripping the speaker protections. Will be looking for another preamp I think until I figure out what's going on for sure. I notice that no one has really addressed the preamp output level of the Carver???

I told ya... The preamp level in itself shouldn't matter as whatever it may be, you still have it controlled by the volume control. If it takes half a volt to produce 100 watts at the output (the amp has a "fixed" gain), then that is what it takes. Your preamp just will get there SOONER if you had lined up another preamp and turned the volume control up at the same rate.

I hope you're not relying on the setting of the volume control as a comparison before and after? The meters on the amp and your ears are your guide, and not setting it at 12 oclock. But also as far as the meters go, you know those meters are suspect in their own right as they do stick. What you should NOT be doing is cranking it to the point where you start seeing the LED's on the front dimming - is that happening?

I also mentioned that the BR in that amp may be suspect. Like I told you, I remember now that one rail voltage drained a lot faster than the other side, and if there is an uneven draw that could be the heat issue. And that also could be what is limiting you. I have another here ready to put in. I can do that and I'll tweak down the bias for you. Up to you...

 

[Northwinds]

Hey Jer, I understood what you said pretty much. I don't crank the shit out of it and yes, the lights start to dim just past 9 o'clock. When I have money and something else to use in it's place, I will get it back down to you. Right now, I will just take it easy and enjoy it. I do notice the right side gets hot before the left side if I am facing the amp so perhaps what you said does need to be done as soon as I am able. If you could put out a feeler for a good set of meters, that would be a priority for me

On a side note, I picked up a pretty cool front loading Pioneer Linear Tracking TT for $5 at the fleamarket today, needs a belt and I need to lubricate the slideout mechanism a little bit. Cartridge on it still looks new and the tonearn and everything moves as it should. Should be a fun little diversion, I already ordered the belt which was cheap enough at $9.99 shipped free off eBay from the belt seller I rely on. He sells the best quality ones and guarantees them

 

[Elite-ist]

On a side note, I picked up a pretty cool front loading Pioneer Linear Tracking TT for $5 at the fleamarket today, needs a belt and I need to lubricate the slideout mechanism a little bit. Cartridge on it still looks new and the tonearn and everything moves as it should. Should be a fun little diversion, I already ordered the belt which was cheap enough at $9.99 shipped free off eBay from the belt seller I rely on. He sells the best quality ones and guarantees them

Would that happen to be a Pioneer PL-88FS turntable?

Nando.

 

[Northwinds]

Would that happen to be a Pioneer PL-88FS turntable?

Nando.

PL-05 Nando

 

[jbeckva]

PL-05 Nando

Awesome. I just got back from picking up a pair of Realistic Mach II's. I knew the guy well, and out and out gave him the Polks I picked up a few weekends ago. The 700's would be eating those Polks for lunch, even after a recap and the drop in tweeter replacements that I can get thru Club Polk.

The Mach II's have the dreaded woofer surround rot. Not really a big deal, because my intention is to replace them outright with woofs that can handle the 700's like the the CV's. Gotta go shop for 'em... I'm figuring 400W woofs, minimum. Need 90DB sensitivity and a high point of around 800 (figure the xover point is at 600).. shouldn't be too hard to find.

What I really like about the Machs (other than they've been on my "list" since they came out in 1986'ish)... the tweeters. The shack used to sell those separately, and I remember them being crystal clear and could take a lot of power...

 

[Northwinds]

I have had th Mach I's and the II's. Believe it or not, I like that big old horn in the Mach I's that was replaced in the II's. Both series' are great speakers and for the money back then, were a real value. I think they were around $249-279 a piece back then

Maybe some JBL 1000 subs eh? No worry on ever blowing them. Polk speakers never did a thing for me, maybe the monster 6ft tall set I had about 8 years ago but those were the top of the line. I snagged them at the same fleamarket for $550 for the pair w/ cables. Those were FUN to listen to and a thing of beauty to look at

 

[jbeckva]

I have had th Mach I's and the II's. Believe it or not, I like that big old horn in the Mach I's that was replaced in the II's. Both series' are great speakers and for the money back then, were a real value. I think they were around $249-279 a piece back then

Maybe some JBL 1000 subs eh? No worry on ever blowing them. Polk speakers never did a thing for me, maybe the monster 6ft tall set I had about 8 years ago but those were the top of the line. I snagged them at the same fleamarket for $550 for the pair w/ cables. Those were FUN to listen to and a thing of beauty to look at

Got some 250/800 peak woofs coming, and all the caps to do a full rebuild on the crossovers. Man, even with the surrounds "gone" and playing with the CV's, that there is some SERIOUS thumping going on. Barely 20 percent on the 700's, and it's enough for my ears (well.. til I get the new stuff in and replaced.. don't want to blow the woofs in there now).

 

[Northwinds]

Managed to shuffle some stuff around and get the Sony version of the SL-1200 that I had in the garage system into the bottom of the rack. Sounds GREAT Jer!!! Robin Trower - Bridge of Sighs on cruise control currently

 

[Elite-ist]

I have had th Mach I's and the II's. Believe it or not, I like that big old horn in the Mach I's that was replaced in the II's. Both series' are great speakers and for the money back then, were a real value. I think they were around $249-279 a piece back then

Maybe some JBL 1000 subs eh? No worry on ever blowing them. Polk speakers never did a thing for me, maybe the monster 6ft tall set I had about 8 years ago but those were the top of the line. I snagged them at the same fleamarket for $550 for the pair w/ cables. Those were FUN to listen to and a thing of beauty to look at

I sold my Realistic Mach Ones earlier this year. Mine were the desirable 40-4024A models. I bought the pair for $40 seven years ago. I agree that the Mach Ones can't be beat for pricing if you had bought these new.

A few video clips of them playing through my Pioneer SA-9500II integrated amplifier, which I sold as well. I was testing everything before they were sold:

Click on image to play video:

Nando.

 

[Northwinds]

Amp is down for now, I was listening to a record at low volume lastnight and for some reason, the fuse blew on the right channel of the amp. I freaked out because the left channel went out also but that fuse seems ok??? The meters will still moving but no sound output so I am sure the amp is fine once I get fuses. Have to go to Radio Shack and stock up on some 5amp 250v's. This amp is a challenge indeed but when she's running, she is awesome

If channel A's fuse goes, should channel B still be audible? This is what scared me, no output in the B channel though meters were moving in both channels after the fuse blew

This amp makes me feel like a dummy. I have had Mark Levinson amps, Adcom's, Pioneers, Kenwoods, NAD and many others over the years and never ran into these issues. Also several tube amps, no issues like this stuff going on ever. It's got to be the Carver. When I get the fuses, I plan to try running my Onkyo receiver as a preamp using the Tape 1 and Tape 2 monitor and see if that offers a solution

 

[jbeckva]

Keep it powered off and send it back, Ron. The fuses are for both channels, and chances are it's the DCP that has tripped on the right channel ... do not power it up

 

[Northwinds]

Ok Jer, not sure when I will be able to, probably a few weeks. Maybe I should also send the preamp down also so you can see what I mean when they are used together. I just have NEVER seen a preamp max an amp out (especially a 250w per channel+ amp) at quarter volume in all the years and systems I have owned. What's the point of the rest of the volume range on the knob? I am thinking this stupid Carver is really a POS or was meant to be used with 2000w amps LOL

I will take it out of the rack and at least get it boxed up for now

Keep it powered off and send it back, Ron. The fuses are for both channels, and chances are it's the DCP that has tripped on the right channel ... do not power it up

 

[laatsch55]

Ron, on every amp spec sheet is one that says "input sensitivity", meaning, at what input will the amp put out it's advertised rating. For the 400 it's 1.2 volts. Most (but not all) volume pots are an audio taper or logrithmic. Very small change in resistivity per knob movement. As you progress through the range the resistivity changes a lot faster. Perhaps the Carver does not have a log pot but a standard taper pot??

 

[Northwinds]

Good point Lee, I had not thought of it that way though I think that is what Jer was trying to drive into my head. Hopefully he can figure out how I managed to exceed 5smps on output (or is it input) that caused the fuses to go

In the meantime, I have my Onkyo receiver back in use. Man, I used to think it was a halfway decent unit but there just is no dynamics like with the PL400. The sound does not jump out of the speakers and hit you in the face with a sledgehammer. I miss the monster already

Ron, on every amp spec sheet is one that says "input sensitivity", meaning, at what input will the amp put out it's advertised rating. For the 400 it's 1.2 volts. Most (but not all) volume pots are an audio taper or logrithmic. Very small change in resistivity per knob movement. As you progress through the range the resistivity changes a lot faster. Perhaps the Carver does not have a log pot but a standard taper pot??

 

[laatsch55]

I try very hard not to be without a 700.