The Larrt's 3300 Ser II

laatsch55

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#1
Swapping op-amps in the Larrt 3300. I had swapped out the factory TL-072's with some JRC 4560's but did not have enough to do the phono section. I am goig to swap all with Burr-Browmn opa2134's and then give it a listen. It will then be headed to the Larrt so I don't feel so bad about the SP-12 project.

This also has the original GE GES 93's and 97's in the front diff section. It's not like I don't have enough TIS 97's and 93's to replace them.
 

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laatsch55

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#2
Joe, could a person swap the ceramics for some polypropylenes, or mica??
 

Gepetto

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#6
laatsch55 said:
Joe, could a person swap the ceramics for some polypropylenes, or mica??
Yes if you have the schematics swap the ones that matter first, the ones in the audio path. Save the power supply section for lowest priority for swapout if you have limited supply of the polypropylenes or polyesters (or micas).
 

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#13
The 3300 is done Larrt!! Now, do you want it to come down in the "Cabbage Case". I still need to replace those meters and swap out the C6 with 470's on your 700.
 

NavLinear

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#14
Lee,

Nice looking pre-amp - but now I'm biased. I love the simplicity of it - nothing like the 4000.

I'll have to pick your brain regarding capacitor selection and the op amp replacements. I purchased and have received the owners manual for the 3300 but I'm still waiting on the service manual. When I receive it I'll put together a list of what I think should be updated and let you throw rocks at it.

I was going to ask how you deal with replacing the axial lead caps but your photos show all. Any issues with the long lead length?

So replacing the ceramics in the audio path sounds like another mod - did these changes make a difference?

Thanks for the thread - Dennis
 

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#15
Yes I think they did Dennis. the Burr-Brown OPA 2134's made the biggest difference, smooth--like babies butt now. Phono section way sweet.No issues with the long leads, keep them the same lenght and flat on the board. gt ots of D-100 and D-5 De-oxit. I had to hit some of these switches 3 times. The sealed Alps ganged pot has to be loosened to get the d-100 in there, and DON"T LOOSEN IT TOO MUCH!!. If you do you are in for a miserable week, IF ya got a buddy that can send you one so you can disassemble in order and lay it out then repeat with the one that isa in pieces. To save a lot of frustration, desolder all pots and selector switch from the (fudder mudder) board, no shit, that's the name of it. Otherwise you will want to kill halfway through switch and pot cleaning. I replaced all electros with Nichicon KZ-Muse, in the same uf.
 

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#16
And I agree minimum component count in a pre is a good thing, take a look inside a 2000 Ser I, the 3300 looks absolutely crowded compared to that.


And you are welcome Sir.
 

NavLinear

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#17
Is this the one:

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/opa2134.pdf

I'm assuming an eight pin dip - must be a pin for pin replacement but no schematics yet.

The owners manual mentions the volume control (sealed Alps ganged pot) and here's some plagiarized text:

"The volume control in the 3300 is a true stepped attenuator consisting of 22 precise positions made by vaporizing thick film resistors onto a ceramic substrate."

You're right - don't want to fcuk that one up. I'll take you up on your advice and remove the switches and pots from the fudder mudder to clean them. I busted out laughing when I saw that name on the mother board. I have ample D-5 but will need to get some D-100.

As always thanks for the help / advice - Dennis
 

laatsch55

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#18
Betcha Dennis. The volume pot is a little brother of the Spec 1. Although it's a 4 gang and a pure bitch to clean. i got lucky and screwed up the pot on a parts unit I had bought for 150.00. Almost all the wafers, ceramics, wipers and hardware went to various AK members. Last count that mistake had saved 7 Spec 1 pots. New pots of that model can be had----------for 487.00.

the OPA 2134 is an 8 pin ,correct. And always Dennis, you are welcome.
On the 3000 Ser II's they are Mudder boards.
 
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