Snell EII
- Thread starter Pure_Brew
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I can't believe how fast this month has flown by. I'm still listening to these as is, and with the room cleaned up and some slight repositioning, they are just great. I'm still thinking about getting the new drivers but things have been a bit hectic on the homefront. I fear if I wait too long, it'll only get harder to get my hands on those drivers, since technically speaking, they are out of business. Seems like D&M is keeping up the service end, as well as the site for the moment.
The other thing that concerns me about dropping the money on the replacement drivers, is the possibility that they won't sound as good as they do now? That would really suck!
The other thing that concerns me about dropping the money on the replacement drivers, is the possibility that they won't sound as good as they do now? That would really suck!
Hey Joe. I'm dragging this thread back up, because I have the May 2006 Stereophile magazine in my grubby paws right now, I just read the article on the Audio Note's (yeah, I know you posted the link already, but it's nicer to have the original in hand 
)
I'm impressed with what Qvortrup did with his updates to the E's, I especially like the look of those Russian Birchwood veneer cabs!! And you can never have too many big black boxes around (external custom crossovers with badass copper Litz wire with some of the best connectors some very jaded 'philes have ever used). And for $13,000 with stands they really should
I am forever a 'stat' guy, I hate boxes around speakers, I prefer using the room to tune in the sound, front, back and sides....I also believe the amp/speaker interaction plays a huge role in letting the music shine through.
By that I mean that there are low powered amps and high sensitivity speakers that can give you goosebumps, then so can a 1960 Bugeye Sprite going 60mph on a curvy road in the woods with only 45hp. I love big thumpin' 454cid Chevy V8's sucking gasoline and air in unGodly amounts through a big 4-barrel carb, just a preferance, I'd love to hear some of the late Peter Snell designs though, he seemed to be a 'true engineer', like my Gramps.
)I'm impressed with what Qvortrup did with his updates to the E's, I especially like the look of those Russian Birchwood veneer cabs!! And you can never have too many big black boxes around (external custom crossovers with badass copper Litz wire with some of the best connectors some very jaded 'philes have ever used). And for $13,000 with stands they really should
I am forever a 'stat' guy, I hate boxes around speakers, I prefer using the room to tune in the sound, front, back and sides....I also believe the amp/speaker interaction plays a huge role in letting the music shine through.
By that I mean that there are low powered amps and high sensitivity speakers that can give you goosebumps, then so can a 1960 Bugeye Sprite going 60mph on a curvy road in the woods with only 45hp. I love big thumpin' 454cid Chevy V8's sucking gasoline and air in unGodly amounts through a big 4-barrel carb, just a preferance, I'd love to hear some of the late Peter Snell designs though, he seemed to be a 'true engineer', like my Gramps.
There are a lot of interesting designs out there using all kinds of transducer technologies. They all have there merits, and on an unlimited budget, I would likely own multiples.
I never owned any stats, but I did own a set of Magnepans, smgiii or something. Bigger then the small ones they sell now without the ribbon. 1980's? They were awesome! I've heard a number of ML stats in shops and unfortunately, never got a really good demo. I did sit and listen to some Quad 57 esl's, and if some wants to take my EII's in trade for those, call me. But that's never going to happen lol.
There's a place in MA that sells audio note products, and I've been invited to go listen. Looking forward to it. I'm sure I won't be dissapointed. "Audiophile" parts aside, I find that the line of AN/E's to be over the top in pricing for such a modest 2-way design in a cabinet which is almost indenticle to these Snells (in terms of almost exact dimensions and minimal bracing). Up to $100,000? Hmmm.
I have often poured over the Audio Note Kits website, which sells AN/E variants, starting around $1250 for the matched/tested drivers, crossovers and cabinet parts, all of which according to Peter Q, would be a drop in replacement to the Snell EII cabinets. ( not the E or EIII which have different dimensions). But then I would need to knock off the bottom footing and use some 10" stands. That is in the realm of possibilty.
Also as previously mentioned, I could refresh these through Snell, with all new drivers and replacement crossover parts for like $700. I'm kind of undesided either way. But if I had the funds I would likely do the entire basic AN/E kit with thier Russian Baltic birch cabinets and stands (add $1400....).
The fact that I have been able to find enjoyment with these old Snell EII's for so little money, leaves the thought of spending lots of money not very compelling. I could say that about most of the gear I own as well. If and when I do get to a point where I either work on or upgrade these, I'll likely post here with good pics and info.
I never owned any stats, but I did own a set of Magnepans, smgiii or something. Bigger then the small ones they sell now without the ribbon. 1980's? They were awesome! I've heard a number of ML stats in shops and unfortunately, never got a really good demo. I did sit and listen to some Quad 57 esl's, and if some wants to take my EII's in trade for those, call me. But that's never going to happen lol.
There's a place in MA that sells audio note products, and I've been invited to go listen. Looking forward to it. I'm sure I won't be dissapointed. "Audiophile" parts aside, I find that the line of AN/E's to be over the top in pricing for such a modest 2-way design in a cabinet which is almost indenticle to these Snells (in terms of almost exact dimensions and minimal bracing). Up to $100,000? Hmmm.
I have often poured over the Audio Note Kits website, which sells AN/E variants, starting around $1250 for the matched/tested drivers, crossovers and cabinet parts, all of which according to Peter Q, would be a drop in replacement to the Snell EII cabinets. ( not the E or EIII which have different dimensions). But then I would need to knock off the bottom footing and use some 10" stands. That is in the realm of possibilty.
Also as previously mentioned, I could refresh these through Snell, with all new drivers and replacement crossover parts for like $700. I'm kind of undesided either way. But if I had the funds I would likely do the entire basic AN/E kit with thier Russian Baltic birch cabinets and stands (add $1400....).
The fact that I have been able to find enjoyment with these old Snell EII's for so little money, leaves the thought of spending lots of money not very compelling. I could say that about most of the gear I own as well. If and when I do get to a point where I either work on or upgrade these, I'll likely post here with good pics and info.
Thanks for responding sir, I've heard what you hear I think ('I'm tryin' to wrap my perceptions around the concept), I know that sounds vague and stupid at most, I think what got me the most is the reviewers friend saying if you love music, these are what you need....I haven't been in the listening room with Snell's in a long time, I don't heed measurment tests like some do, I like the room/amp/speaker to voice that stuff...
**I'm not barking,!! I say Woof!! Make me tweet!!**
Please don't
Hehe, nice ta be back here, get the some 'stat's, hear the magic midrange...set them up rightyly and hear some lower regesters frequency responce...
**I'm not barking,!! I say Woof!! Make me tweet!!**
Please don't
Hehe, nice ta be back here, get the some 'stat's, hear the magic midrange...set them up rightyly and hear some lower regesters frequency responce...
New caps, resistors and wire.
I finally pulled these speakers completely apart. The wire was so bad with corrosion it had to all be completely removed. In order to do this, the crossovers had to be pulled apart since the point to point design had this wire all intertwined in everything.
Since I was going to go through all this trouble, I decided to change out all the electrolytics and I replaced two resistors with a couple of Mills. I used 1% Dayton's for everything, and an AudioCap on the tweeter as a bypass cap, for the hell of it.
This took a hell of a long time for me to do. Dismantling, cleaning all the contacts, all the glue, trying to refit the comparitively HUGE caps on the original board and being as anal as I could be about the work, had me for a 12 hour day-whew.
Larry was very helpful listening to my rabbling and supporting me in the challange. The end result is about as ugly as the original. It looks like a ton more parts on the board but its exactly the same amount of parts, just bigger.
I was able to get these up and running tonight. They work, that much I can say lol. The verdict is out on the sound but initial impressions were mostly good. To begin with I don't know if they are just brighter or I can hear a ton more detail in the upper frequencies. Sound a tad "phasey" but I'll have to wait to run these in more tomorrow and do some more listening.
I finally pulled these speakers completely apart. The wire was so bad with corrosion it had to all be completely removed. In order to do this, the crossovers had to be pulled apart since the point to point design had this wire all intertwined in everything.
Since I was going to go through all this trouble, I decided to change out all the electrolytics and I replaced two resistors with a couple of Mills. I used 1% Dayton's for everything, and an AudioCap on the tweeter as a bypass cap, for the hell of it.
This took a hell of a long time for me to do. Dismantling, cleaning all the contacts, all the glue, trying to refit the comparitively HUGE caps on the original board and being as anal as I could be about the work, had me for a 12 hour day-whew.
Larry was very helpful listening to my rabbling and supporting me in the challange. The end result is about as ugly as the original. It looks like a ton more parts on the board but its exactly the same amount of parts, just bigger.
I was able to get these up and running tonight. They work, that much I can say lol. The verdict is out on the sound but initial impressions were mostly good. To begin with I don't know if they are just brighter or I can hear a ton more detail in the upper frequencies. Sound a tad "phasey" but I'll have to wait to run these in more tomorrow and do some more listening.
New caps, resistors and wire.
Couple things that happened while I was doing this. I needed a lot more heat so I had picked up a low end 75w Weller soldering gun. It was better then my little 25w iron, but it turned out to be a real piece of shit. I should have known as half of the stock had cracked casings near the heating elements. What ended up happening was the casing started to melt around the heating elements, then the whole case! I worked on for a bit longer until it popped internally, letting smoke out!
Wow...
I brought it right back to Home Depot, and swapped it for the more professional looking 100/140w. Worked like a charm and really sped up the work. Heavy wire and terminals really soak up heat so this was great. Obviously I had to be careful.
The funniest thing for this project though, was when I was trying to twist wire into pairs. My drill battery died, so I tied the full 10ft to the doorknob and used my wife's mixer to spin the wire.
Couple things that happened while I was doing this. I needed a lot more heat so I had picked up a low end 75w Weller soldering gun. It was better then my little 25w iron, but it turned out to be a real piece of shit. I should have known as half of the stock had cracked casings near the heating elements. What ended up happening was the casing started to melt around the heating elements, then the whole case! I worked on for a bit longer until it popped internally, letting smoke out!
Wow...I brought it right back to Home Depot, and swapped it for the more professional looking 100/140w. Worked like a charm and really sped up the work. Heavy wire and terminals really soak up heat so this was great. Obviously I had to be careful.
The funniest thing for this project though, was when I was trying to twist wire into pairs. My drill battery died, so I tied the full 10ft to the doorknob and used my wife's mixer to spin the wire.
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Maybe a bit like a set of small magnepans, minus the ribbon tweeter, and a sub that needs to be turned down. Might be good to put them on stands. The smell and taste of an oven baked dessert comes to mind though. Mmmmm.
objectively, they are different then before. I think the Jolida was/is having a tough time with old electrolytics, which is a common theme in all these old speakers I have. Piano transients were blurry so to speak. Non-issue on solid state gear I had/have. This is not an issue now, so I'm thinking the new caps improved that issue.
Subjectively, they sound better in every conceivable way from lower mid bass all the way up. Better detail, dynamics layered depth, focus, spaciousness. Still fat on the bottom and not razor sharp imaging overall. Not for cranking.
Now if I could just tune that bass without an EQ, messing up the cabinet or messing up the rest of the response. I think I have to tune it lower as there is too much of a bump at....sec...run CD...around 50 Hz. Probably hitting close to 1/2 wavelength peaks near 50hz based on the size of this little room. If the port tuning is around there with any kind of bump then it's all exaggerated.
objectively, they are different then before. I think the Jolida was/is having a tough time with old electrolytics, which is a common theme in all these old speakers I have. Piano transients were blurry so to speak. Non-issue on solid state gear I had/have. This is not an issue now, so I'm thinking the new caps improved that issue.
Subjectively, they sound better in every conceivable way from lower mid bass all the way up. Better detail, dynamics layered depth, focus, spaciousness. Still fat on the bottom and not razor sharp imaging overall. Not for cranking.
Now if I could just tune that bass without an EQ, messing up the cabinet or messing up the rest of the response. I think I have to tune it lower as there is too much of a bump at....sec...run CD...around 50 Hz. Probably hitting close to 1/2 wavelength peaks near 50hz based on the size of this little room. If the port tuning is around there with any kind of bump then it's all exaggerated.