Rek O Kut B12H Rehab Thread

mr_rye89

mr_rye89

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Okay so the Rek has a big ugly plinth that is big and ugly and badly made. I built it out of layers of plywood and it's massive because it kills the rumble from this idler drive motor unit. But it's an eye sore and hacked up because I can't decide on a tonearm........

IMG_20240523_191507633.jpg
 
The notch in the right hand corner is for an arm board to accommodate a 16" tonearm. For now I'll be mounting the Micro Trak 306 (269mm spindle to pivot distance) but I'm eyeing a Stax UA-70 (300mm spindle to pivot distance). The arm board I'm coming up with will be easily detachable and somewhat decoupled from the plinth20250126_160759.jpg
 
You want the arm board to bond to the plinth so there is zero relative movement between arm and plinth. If they are separate, motor vibrations are maxed out by an isolated arm.
 
It can go either way. Plenty of sprung set ups out there.

But I tend to agree- little relative motion, yet isolated.

When I reworked the Rega, I have a somewhat massive plinth, but a constrained layer sub-plinth is also added. Each element is on it's own elastomer-coupled layer. Motor, feet spindle and arm.

I would probably keep it simple and have a bolt goung through the two plinth layers and sandwiching the arm board between them.

But the only way to really know is to listen to the final design.
 
Nice job!

Makes me wish I had kept mine, now knowing now the rumble from the idler motor system could have been silenced by use of a well made wood base.

Has the new base absorbed the rumble vibrations enough?
 
I'm not sure yet, I had to re glue last night, didn't sand off the finish where I glued it, it came apart....d'oh. I also screwed up the arm board. Once I have the arm board fixed I'll probably put the RB300 back on it to check for rumble. Obviously I don't need the arm board to mount a 9" arm but i want this mostly done before I run it. I have some goofy spike feet and a little bitty VFD on order (to dial in the motor speed)
 
Mount the arm board in a dovetail and drive it in/out with a threaded rod across the plinth. Then you can accommodate any spindle to pivot by turning the knob until it's correct for the desired arm.
 
I'm also considering a SAEC WE-308L arm, should be 265mm spindle to pivot distance. We'll see if that lines up, I shoulda put the motor unit closer to the right hand side. I guess I could notch out the plinth some more for a longer arm board lol
 
Okay the VFD might be a dead end, it was advertised as being for 120 volts but won't run on that, gonna plug it into 240 later for the lulz.

I figured out the arm board, had to notch out.20250201_125912.jpg20250201_125014.jpg not real square but close enough. 60 mil roofing EPDM for decoupling.
 
mr_rye89 said:
Okay the VFD might be a dead end, it was advertised as being for 120 volts but won't run on that, gonna plug it into 240 later for the lulz.

I figured out the arm board, had to notch out.View attachment 85248View attachment 85249 not real square but close enough. 60 mil roofing EPDM for decoupling.
Click to expand...
Not sure you really want that chopped up VFD AC running into a turntable motor anyway that is near to a very sensitive pickup
 
Joe was right. Kinda hard to see but that AC is not okay.....
 

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