Problem w/Teac A 3300S

Might not be that fast to find one. I bought one from a customer and another I traded for a A6300 but the 44OB was a logging recorder. It is good for parts but I think I will make it a regular machine. This is what they look like.
 

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Skywavebe said:
Might not be that fast to find one. I bought one from a customer and another I traded for a A6300 but the 44OB was a logging recorder. It is good for parts but I think I will make it a regular machine. This is what they look like.
Click to expand...

Oh man, I can tell I want one of those already. It looks lie a totally no-nonsense piece of hardware.
 
Exactly that- when you work on this stuff for a living and see the good stuff that comes in it does not take too much time before you have one yourself. The 44OB has 4 channel Woelke heads on it that last a very long time. Now being I have been in quad for a lot of years I have a 44 sitting next to me in a rack, 40-4 probably two of them and A3340S and A3440 decks here. All of them are capable decks but the earlier A3340S had a horrible sync head response but you only need it for timing your sync recordings. The decks like the 34 and 34B had the same heads for repro as they did for Sync so the response was designed into these to be the same as the Repro was. In this they made a great advance and also taking these head switches off the head cover was a great help as up there sticking out they often get abused and broken. If you see a A3340S on it's face it is very likely that sync board will be toast- they can not be put on their face like most other deck can without protecting those switches with a frame of boards to hold it up. I have looked into making that board of glass epoxy but the 6 pole switches can not be found as they were probably custom ordered. There will not be that much demand for the switch board in this aging unit anyway so that is why the switches were not followed up on.

The postage as I thought for priority mailing of the Reel and Speed switch did go up to $8.45 but being the switches are not $22 each that is a small change. So now I have 500 switches with wrong bracket and 500 with correct bracket. If the original bracket is used and modified the 25mm switches can be used- I have done it as the switches themselves are fine. You need to cut some away with a dremel drill cutting bit. I have actually done about 6-8 units over the years and they all stayed out there.
So the Reel and Speed switches are now here $12 plus $8.45. I am not an rip off person like some Audio Select characters are otherwise I could sell the pair of switches for the small price of $350 and free shipping.
 
Good Evening Sam,

We are currently hunkered down in 7 degree deep freeze here in DFW Texas, where the power has been lost almost 16 hours ago.

Let me know if you ever encounter a 440B that you could recommend as a compliment my X-1000R.

Dan
 
Wow, Texas needs to get wood burning stoves and be prepared like Illinois is for this kind of weather. I have been looking into wood burning stoves as well. The thing about power is that it runs the blower in your heat system and without that the flames wil not even come on in a furnace- they require the induction fan vacuum to turn on. So much for global warming.
 
Skywavebe said:
Wow, Texas needs to get wood burning stoves and be prepared like Illinois is for this kind of weather. I have been looking into wood burning stoves as well. The thing about power is that it runs the blower in your heat system and without that the flames wil not even come on in a furnace- they require the induction fan vacuum to turn on. So much for global warming.
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Grin, I left Champaign-Urbanna IL to specifically escape weather like this, a bit over 31 years ago.
 
Well I have one customer that went down to live in Panama- I wonder if they ever see snow there? I bet in SA they complain that it is always hot.
When I was in Florida for me it was too hot but some guys get used to it I guess.
 
I grew up in near New Orleans in south Louisiana, If I recall correctly, it snowed about once a decade, in any amount that would “stick.” Summers were rough due to the combination of heat with humidity, but I suspect I could re-acclimate, grin.
 
We could all adjust depending on age but I have a Trainee that came from Vietnam and he is always cold. I think when you come from Gilligans Island or such a place that it will take some years to get thick Chicago blood. Imagine what the guys in Alaska have to put up with. I had always heard that in the military if you were bad you would get sent to the Aleutian islands. One day I looked it up. What are they cpmplaining about? At least it is not Northern Alaska.
 
Well getting back to the subject at hand was the tape shedding ever fixed and what was it a sharp guide or just splintering tape?
 
FYI, I just finished a 44OB using MDS36 tape and I can tell you it even does better than my plus or minus 2dB even up to 20KHz. 15 IPS. These are sweet decks when adjusted properly. I did have to pull out those Marcon caps that I had trouble with on the 48. I no longer trust those- 100ufd 16V and 220uFd 25V out they go. It had to get new brake pads too. The old ones were very dry like cardboard.
 
I am getting more use to putting the speed/ reel switches in and although I would not call it easy there are things you can do to help get the job done. I take the knobs off the speed and reel size switch as you will need to anyway. They have those cotter pins like retainers. I don't know the real name of them but they are straight side on one side and like a sine wave on the other. Mc Master Carr calls them Hairpin Cotter pins. To take out the main bracket you take out 4 screws and the three screw with washer on them. Then the switch assembly can be worked to allow the small excellite phillips to go through the switch holes to get to the screws on each end of the switch assembly and these are M3 screws. Once the switch assembly is out and new switches put on the PCB the new switches will allow the screws to be put in then all that is needed is to put back the three connnectors- watch out for the black connector that can come off adjacent to the switch board but more inside the center of the machine which is the cue level mute switch. Oh the pitch and Reverse mode knobs must come off 1.5mm hex tool for those.
I did three sets this last week and I will do them when sending decks to far off places like Australia as sending a deck back just for those switch problems is not at all practical these days.
I think I have about 240 switch pairs left in stock. I did use one the 25mm center switches to fix a timer switch problem. I just cut off the contacts I did not need so a longer switch goes in where there was a DPDT but the item still works and is a newer switch.
 
The other decks like A3340S and A3440 and 34 and 34B decks are good decks when adjusted correctly but the kind of tape handling and some of the longevity is the problem with motors we can not get anymore. the A3340S used a AC motor and so all that might be needed there is a mod pulley but only if it is low in speed.
 
Skywavebe said:
I am getting more use to putting the speed/ reel switches in and although I would not call it easy there are things you can do to help get the job done. I take the knobs off the speed and reel size switch as you will need to anyway. They have those cotter pins like retainers. I don't know the real name of them but they are straight side on one side and like a sine wave on the other. Mc Master Carr calls them Hairpin Cotter pins. To take out the main bracket you take out 4 screws and the three screw with washer on them. Then the switch assembly can be worked to allow the small excellite phillips to go through the switch holes to get to the screws on each end of the switch assembly and these are M3 screws. Once the switch assembly is out and new switches put on the PCB the new switches will allow the screws to be put in then all that is needed is to put back the three connnectors- watch out for the black connector that can come off adjacent to the switch board but more inside the center of the machine which is the cue level mute switch. Oh the pitch and Reverse mode knobs must come off 1.5mm hex tool for those.
I did three sets this last week and I will do them when sending decks to far off places like Australia as sending a deck back just for those switch problems is not at all practical these days.
I think I have about 240 switch pairs left in stock. I did use one the 25mm center switches to fix a timer switch problem. I just cut off the contacts I did not need so a longer switch goes in where there was a DPDT but the item still works and is a newer switch.
Click to expand...
I wanted to thank you again for the X-1000R switches. They worked perfectly. Of course the size switch does nothing - there is no connection to it on the switch board, but it goes in and out like the other one that actually does have a function, with that satisfying latching action!!!!
 
The reel size switch does hook up otherwise the Japanese do not put things in for looks. They signal the processor for changes in how the deck acts with the different reel size and weight.
 
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