Newbie looking for info on WOPLs

drummergrl

drummergrl

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OK, the first question is, when I am searching for a PL donor unit to do a WO mod how much functionality does the PL unit have to have? Working meters, yes. But then are the output transistors being removed? What else can be missing?
 
Due to Joe's continuing efforts all we need now are meters, transformer and heatsinks....
 
Everything inside figuratively goes in the trashcan Michele, everything is replaced with new TOTL WO goodies. There is nothing PL about the amp except the meters, faceplate and tranny anymore. They have been reborn far larger then Bob Carver ever envisioned. This is why these amps can compete with most any amp on the planet. They are well thought out using the highest quality components right down to the use of silver wire and routing to minimize any potential noise

EDIT: The use of the classic Phase Linear amps was just pure genius on Joe's part. To meld old with new in a package that still stuns in visual appearance to this day but also getting the sonic and dynamic capabilities of World Class amps many times more expensive
 
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Here's my next question: when I tell people I'm looking for a PL to mod of course they all start lobbying me away from the idea. Here are other amps that have been recommended to me that they say will be better than a WOPL and less money. Could I get comments on these amps, especially in comparison to a WOPL please? Meaning why is a WOPL better than any of these? Thanks.

Apt Holman
Behringer Euro Series
ART SLA2
Yamaha M80
 
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drummergrl said:
Here's my next question: when I tell people I'm looking for a PL to mod of course they all start lobbying me away from the idea. Here are other amps that have been recommended to me that they say will be better than a WOPL and less money. Could I get comments on these amps, especially in comparison to a WOPL please? Meaning why is a WOPL better than any of these? Thanks.

Apt Holman
Behringer Euro Series
ART SLA2
Yamaha M80
Click to expand...

I own a Yammie M80(and M60) and while it is an awesome amp, keep in mind that some of the electrolytic caps are no longer available and that these units are known to suffer from the corrosive adhesive issue, DSGB. Mine is presently having having this issue resolved by the AK member that wrote the thread(thank brutal!).

Not familiar with the other units but I am sure somebody else will chime in about them at some point.
 
Nick Danger said:
I own a Yammie M80(and M60) and while it is an awesome amp, keep in mind that some of the electrolytic caps are no longer available and that these units are known to suffer from the corrosive adhesive issue, DSGB. Mine is presently having having this issue resolved by the AK member that wrote the thread(thank brutal!).

Not familiar with the other units but I am sure somebody else will chime in about them at some point.
Click to expand...

How is it resolved? Can you explain it to me?
And no other caps can be substituted?
 
drummergrl said:
Here's my next question: when I tell people I'm looking for a PL to mod of course they all start lobbying me away from the idea. Here are other amps that have been recommended to me that they say will be better than a WOPL and less money. Could I get comments on these amps, especially in comparison to a WOPL please? Meaning why is a WOPL better than any of these? Thanks.

Apt Holman
Behringer Euro Series
ART SLA2
Yamaha M80
Click to expand...

I gave my M80 (heavily mod'd and recapped) to my nephew. Soundwise "close" but that was a few wopl revisions ago. :toothy5:

Welcome, btw! :hello1:
 
Michelle, I have 4 Spec 2's, quiet, powerful, no better distortion specs on the planet, and yet compared to a WOPL....somewhat sterile.

You are now to a point in audio where just published specs are NOT the be all of your choice. Books of advice can be written on what you've just posted and could take weeks to impart. The abridged version is , from several "audiophiles" that A WOPL sounds as good or better than amps costing up to 10 times as much. Fast, clean and powerful.....excellent signal-to-noise ratios now, killer frequency response-flat to 10 hz, gobs of headroom.....what more do you want.

Bottom line, you can't convince anyone else of your choice, nor should you have to. If it sounds good to you that's all that matters...regardless of what it is or what you paid or it.
 
Just looking at the specs of a Apt Holman 1 amp, there is no comparison by the math but it's how it sounds that counts right?

Beringer and ART are companies that produce amps and accessories for instrument players and DJ's, not audiophile grade construction, just cheap, loud and not the most reliable. Crown or Peavey would be a much better choice if you were going for a DJ amp for power
 
drummergrl said:
How is it resolved? Can you explain it to me?
And no other caps can be substituted?
Click to expand...

To resolve the situation, you have to remove all the components on the main PCB that are affected, clean off the glue, replace the component(caps, trasistors, diodes, etc.) Take a peek here.

You can substitute caps, but you will have to modify the amp's chassis or mount caps outside on the outside as jbeckva did with his M80 repair/ mod.
 
Its been my experience that the high current amps always sound better .... less effort to produce the sound Maybe ??
 
I like what I'm hearing. I thought the same thing when I looked up that Behrimger and ART thing- PA amps- not audiophile amps.
I really trust Ron (Northwinds) so I'm going for it. But I have to admit, I've never heard one. Ron's too far away from me.

So in searching for the PL donor unit, why pay all the money for a working one? Can I buy a parts unit? And then who do I send it to to get modded? And how much does the whole works mod cost roughly?
 
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Like I said, all we need now are the meters, transformer, and heatsinks.

Total White oak can range from 750-2,000.00 depending on what exactly you want. A decent carcass and just factory appearance, all White Oaked around 800-1000.....

For a 400.....a lot of other factors involved too. PS caps, how many outputs can be salvaged....just depends....
 
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laatsch55 said:
Like I said, all we need now are the meters, transformer, and heatsinks.

Total White oak can range from 750-2,000.00 depending on what exactly you want. A decent carcass and just factory appearance, all White Oaked around 800-1000.....

For a 400.....a lot of other factors involved too. PS caps, how many outputs can be salvaged....just depends....
Click to expand...

You did say that. It's my ignorance making me asking the same question several times to make sure I've got it right. I don't want to buy something that isn't right or overbuy. So if it doesn't power on or no sound comes out that doesn't matter as long as there are working meters, transformer and heatsinks in place?
 
laatsch55 said:


For a 400.....a lot of other factors involved too. PS caps, how many outputs can be salvaged....just depends....
Click to expand...

Wait, how many outputs can be salvaged? PS caps? I thought it just had to have meters, transformer and heat sinks.
Does outputs mean output transistors?
 
Yes outputs are output transistors. Depends on what type are on it. PS are power supply caps...none of the "depends " things changes the price of a conversion more than 100 to 150...
 
laatsch55 said:
Yes outputs are output transistors. Depends on what type are on it. PS are power supply caps...none of the "depends " things changes the price of a conversion more than 100 to 150...
Click to expand...

So if it has output transistors OK but if it doesn't have outputs still Ok but mod will cost more?
And same about PS caps? Can have them or not?
 
To Totally Gut It and go back with everything new EXCEPT heatsinks, transformer and meters using the stock chassis and faceplate right around 1200.00
 
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