New TT!! KENWOOD KD-1033

NavLinear said:
Good job on the shielding enclosure Tasuke. I agree that the wires coming from the cart are extremely small. Is anyone aware why these wires aren't shielded? It seems that could help for potential noise problems.

I very much agree with you Larry - the more you can do to isolate signals from each other and EMI sources the better. Thank you for keeping me straight as this is an edcuational experience for me. Please help in keeping me in line as the audio world is my new (actuallly refound) friend - and I hope you and others on this site will become friends given a little time and communication.

Dennis
Click to expand...

They are twisted and do run through the tonearm. They also have to be very light. It is a bit of a pain to thread the wires through the tonearm. My guess would be weight.

Larry
 
I thought that might be the case but wasn't sure - thanks for the input. You stay up late - isn't that bad? :lol:

Dennis
 
NavLinear said:
I thought that might be the case but wasn't sure - thanks for the input. You stay up late - isn't that bad? :lol:

Dennis
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To be honest I think I have slept most of my days away. Worked night shift for many years. My wife laughs at me. When I sleep I put my arm over my eyes so I won't see any sunlight. LOl

Larry
 
Hi,
I have also just bought one of these for £11 on ebay. It's cleaned up well and I'm just waiting for a belt to arrive in the post.
Good idea to improve the phono leads, thanks for that.
I tried to dismantle the bearing to clean it out and refill it but can't get the spindle out of the brass housing. Where there is normally a little screw on the side to secure it just seems to be a small blob of lead. SHould I drill it out, retap the hole and fit a new screw?
Looking forward to using this turntable,
Richard
 
Hey Larry,

Your schedule is messed up kind of like mine. At work I constantly remind everyone that time beginning with a most significent digit of 0 just dosen't work for me. That gets me into the 10:00 AM or later range - so late nights still work for me.

One might say that my clock is off - I think I'd have to agree!

Take care - Nav
 
i just decided to pull the trigger on a set of these for $33 and change;


NerveAudioLitzwirephonocartridgeheadshellleads-5-6-12.jpg



- says that they're Litz-wired, and made by a "Nerve Audio" company. opinions?
they're coming clear from FL, so it should be a good week before i see them...
 
Rhillen said:
Hi,
I have also just bought one of these for £11 on ebay. It's cleaned up well and I'm just waiting for a belt to arrive in the post.
Good idea to improve the phono leads, thanks for that.
I tried to dismantle the bearing to clean it out and refill it but can't get the spindle out of the brass housing. Where there is normally a little screw on the side to secure it just seems to be a small blob of lead. SHould I drill it out, retap the hole and fit a new screw?
Looking forward to using this turntable,
Richard
Click to expand...


Perhaps Tasuke could answer this......
 
i never did disassemble the main bearing when i lubed it.

i simply applied oil generously along the tiny gap between the bearing itself, and the shaft it fits into.

most of it sunk right in, and has seemed to do it's job well...
 
Tasuke said:
speakerman1 said:
Ok your going to have to explain to me that covering up bare joints will not cut down on unwanted noise. I am learning about the EMI, EMF, or radio waves thing. What ever you want to call them. I don't think he needs 3 ferrite beads. 1 maybe 2 may do what he wants.
Larry
Click to expand...

i probably don't, but i have a TON of them
that i scavenged out of a couple of old
HD-ready rear-projection sets,
so i felt i could just be liberal with the things,
especially on my main components.



speakerman1 said:
Even my head shell has shrink tubing on the head shell pins. If I can get it over the pins. Scared of breaking pins.
Larry
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me too. those leads are SO delicate looking.

anyway, i don't have any Shrink-Tubing; would electrical tape do just as well?
Click to expand...

I can't get over breaking the LEADS, forget about the PINS. I let somebody else with real fingers attach the wires.
 
i'm about to go back and remove both that shielding box i made,
AS WELL as the junction PCB inside, binding the tonearm leads
to the RCAs.

i intend to DIRECTLY COUPLE the leads and ground to their RCA/GND LEAD counterparts,
cover each of the five exposed solder joints with electrical tape,
cover the whole shebang with a layer of ALUMINUM FOIL for shielding,
clear from the leads' direct exit from tonearm, to a little on past the solder joins.

in theory, as well as i can figure, this should provide the best possible connection
and noise rejection for this brand/model of TT, and should result in
the finest sounding, closest to "Reference Quality" TT i have yet had the pleasure
to own.

i have yet, as of this writing, to perform this mod, and, of course,
any input/thoughts are quite welcome...
 
KD-1033JOHN-5-8-121_1.jpg


KD-1033JOHN-5-8-121_2.jpg


KD-1033JOHN-5-8-121_3.jpg




Oh My God... the noise floor is now dropped way down to virtual insignificance.

further, the sound is now crisp and clear in a way that approaches, if not comes close to,
my PIONEER PD-91 CDP.

all this, and i haven't even gotten those new headshell leads yet!!

by god, when those finally arrive, i think i just might be in for
the Vinyl experience of my life, to date...
 
-FINALLY- got those leads!!


NerveAudioLitzwirephonocartridgeheadshellleads-5-14-121.jpg


NerveAudioLitzwirephonocartridgeheadshellleads-5-14-122.jpg


NerveAudioLitzwirephonocartridgeheadshellleads-5-14-123.jpg




- had to do some microscale muscling to get the CART ends of the leads
onto the cartridge's pins, though they more-or-less just slipped on, firmly-but-easily,
onto the HEADSHELL end.

i've yet to sit down and listen, but will soon, and i'm expecting grand things. we'll see...
 
speakerman1 said:
What cart is that?

Larry
Click to expand...


an ADC. it's equipped with a VLM mk.II styli.

i don't know if the styli model applies to the cart itself,
just that both are ADC, both are quite compatible.

they were both equipped
on the low-end 70's BSR TT that i had inherited
from my father over ten years back, and had long since
replaced with first that REALISTIC/ELAC,
and now this KENWOOD. the ADC cart/styli set has carried over
through both, as it is the only cart/styli set i possess...
 
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