New TT!! KENWOOD KD-1033

[Master Tasuke]

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/kenwood/kd-1033.shtml

lookie what i found at my local recyclers today, (4/29/12) and just finished restoring;

- it's a little rough around the edges, but it cleaned up well, as can be seen.


it's a great, simple and reliable-looking all MANUAL belt-driven design.
further, it sounds GOOD. at least as good as any TT i've heard yet,
and quite possibly better.

it's original belt, of course, had long since turned to goo,
so i cleaned that all up with paper towels
soaked in 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. this stuff cleans up that crap
like you wouldn't believe.

i managed to find a good, healthy belt in my spares stash that fit perfectly,
and after oiling the platter shaft bearing, motor bearing and breaking it all in,
she took off right like she was built just yesterday.
GOOD, SOLID quality, long since forgotten in the CE industry.


also, i upgraded the output RCAs and GROUND lead,
but left the power cord as is, except placing a series of
snap-on ferrite cores onto it, directly inside the chassis.

i have the dustcover, i just need to clean it up
and apply a good deal
of scratch-removing plastic polish rubbing treatments to get it to sheen some. i think i'll leave the hinges off, and just remove the cover completely
when in use, as, not only have i heard Audiophile noises
about hinged covers catching sound waves and producing feedback,
or some such like that, but i just LOVE the table's sleek, low-profile looks.

i was also lucky to find, and latch onto an original copy of the SM for $6 and change. whee!!

i think i'll be sticking with this one,
until i find a solid mid/late 1970's PIONEER model that really wet's my whistle... :jump:

 

[NavLinear]

Hey Tasuke,

Nice score! Good job on the rebuild.

The URL posted but I don't see any pics - it could be me but so far anytime that has not worked correctly on this forum has been my fault. Just call me Dumas.

i'm curious what you did in upgrading the RCA jacks or maybe they aren't jacks maybe the TT has a dangling cable with a couple of male RCA's? Don't forget a photo of this and your grounding fix.

I'm assuming the ferrite beads are for EMI? What did you install and why? Sorry for the questions but it's always a learning experience.

Yeah - six bucks for a service manual was another good score.

Nav

 

[Master Tasuke]

Hey Tasuke,

Nice score! Good job on the rebuild.

The URL posted but I don't see any pics - it could be me but so far anytime that has not worked correctly on this forum has been my fault. Just call me Dumas.

i'm curious what you did in upgrading the RCA jacks or maybe they aren't jacks maybe the TT has a dangling cable with a couple of male RCA's? Don't forget a photo of this and your grounding fix.

I'm assuming the ferrite beads are for EMI? What did you install and why? Sorry for the questions but it's always a learning experience.

Yeah - six bucks for a service manual was another good score.

Nav

try this;


http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll31 ... -30-12.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll31 ... 29-123.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll31 ... 29-125.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll31 ... 29-124.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll31 ... 30-122.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll31 ... 29-128.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[speakerman1]

Do you have any shrink tube? I would try to insulate the solder joints on the RCAs. Just me.

Larry

 

[NavLinear]

Nice TT and good job with the clean up and mods. I also like TT's with a wood chassis - just gives it that nice vintage feel.

Thanks for the photos.

 

[Master Tasuke]

Do you have any shrink tube? I would try to insulate the solder joints on the RCAs. Just me.

Larry

nope, don't got any.

there wasn't any sort of insulation on the original RCA's
solder-work, either.

this might be a good idea for hedging against extraneous noise pickup, though?

 

[speakerman1]

Just me being anal. I do things like that. Just call me silly. LOL

Larrt

PS Nice TT

 

[speakerman1]

There is a thread about getting scratches out of the cover. You can make it like new. I had some with deep scratches.

Larry

 

[speakerman1]

Do you have any shrink tube? I would try to insulate the solder joints on the RCAs. Just me.

Larry

nope, don't got any.

there wasn't any sort of insulation on the original RCA's
solder-work, either.

this might be a good idea for hedging against extraneous noise pickup, though?

A TT is very problematic with noise any way. If every thing isn't just right.

Larry

 

[Master Tasuke]

Do you have any shrink tube? I would try to insulate the solder joints on the RCAs. Just me.

Larry

nope, don't got any.

there wasn't any sort of insulation on the original RCA's
solder-work, either.

this might be a good idea for hedging against extraneous noise pickup, though?

A TT is very problematic with noise any way. If every thing isn't just right.

Larry

I've Noticed...

 

[NavLinear]

Larry's suggestion about insulating the RCA connections is a good one. This won't help against EMI or other undesired noise producing issues but it would protect the exposed leads and solder joints from potential shorts.

 

[speakerman1]

Larry's suggestion about insulating the RCA connections is a good one. This won't help against EMI or other undesired noise producing issues but it would protect the exposed leads and solder joints from potential shorts.

Ok your going to have to explain to me that covering up bare joints will not cut down on unwanted noise. I am learning about the EMI, EMF, or radio waves thing. What ever you want to call them. I don't think he needs 3 ferrite beads. 1 maybe 2 may do what he wants. Even my head shell has shrink tubing on the head shell pins. If I can get it over the pins. Scared of breaking pins.

Larry

 

[Master Tasuke]

Ok your going to have to explain to me that covering up bare joints will not cut down on unwanted noise. I am learning about the EMI, EMF, or radio waves thing. What ever you want to call them. I don't think he needs 3 ferrite beads. 1 maybe 2 may do what he wants.
Larry

i probably don't, but i have a TON of them
that i scavenged out of a couple of old
HD-ready rear-projection sets,
so i felt i could just be liberal with the things,
especially on my main components.

Even my head shell has shrink tubing on the head shell pins. If I can get it over the pins. Scared of breaking pins.
Larry

me too. those leads are SO delicate looking.

anyway, i don't have any Shrink-Tubing; would electrical tape do just as well?

 

[speakerman1]

Send me your address in a PM.

Larry

 

[jbeckva]

Ok your going to have to explain to me that covering up bare joints will not cut down on unwanted noise.

I think (aint got any handy, but).. the following experiment would be a good way to explain. Take two magnets, make sure they stick together, then separate the two with a swatch of electrical tape or other insulator. Do they still stick together?

Or consider the following... take a typical dipole 300 ohm FM antenna. The wire making up the antenna is insulated in plastic, correct?

 

[speakerman1]

OK I did this experiment. I took one magnet and tried it on bare metal. It is pretty strong mag. I then tried it on an insulated piece of metal. It didn't stop it; but it did diminish the pull. Like I told him in another post. You are doing everything you can do to cut down on noise. I know it is very hard to eliminate it. You just try to minimize it.

Larry

 

[NavLinear]

Hey guys,

Shit - I don't want to step on my crank on this one but here goes.

My experience with shrink tubing has been as an insulator for wire to connector interconnect, wire to wire interconnect (splice), strain relief, barrier against contaminants and abrasian deterent among other uses.

My background is in the design and testing of flight and shipboard use hardware and over the years I've been involved in EMI and EMC testing.

Here's a link from Wikipedia that has some info about shrink tubing:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In regards to noise - the insulation does provide protection from adjacent wires but the exposed lead length is small and at the frequencies the TT operates I'm not sure what effect insulation has. Maybe you guys can edcuate me in this regard. I have no intention of being an A33 but inputs are always welcome.

Thanks - Nav

 

[speakerman1]

All points of view are fine. That is how we learn. With me I would insulate even the lug with tubing. In my preamp Lee used shielded tubing. On an aircraft even when we pin it has to be almost perfect. We wouldn't let a terminal strip be open like that. I do not remember slicing a broken wire if it was broken in a run. It was replaced. Every open or bare connection was shrink tubed. We used knife edges for splices and enviro splices. Before shrink tube we used a cloth and string tied it on. I'm not saying your wrong. I'm just saying it can't hurt. Any shielding is better than no shielding. Would give me peace of mind.

Larry

 

[Master Tasuke]

just about as good as this example is going to get.

i used CD SCRATCH REMOVER fluid to buff/polish the dustcover up,
but i think it might benefit from a couple more treatments yet.

i constructed a little enclosure box, out of a sheet of laminated/insulated metal foil
pulled from a VCR or something (don't remember ATM)
and secured it around the small junction PCB
directly joining the GROUND lead and RCAs to their related tonearm wiring.
aberrant noise levels went down a great deal.


also, just bought a solid Aluminum
(milled from Aircraft-grade aluminum, so claims the U.S. Mfr./seller)

- 45RPM adapter puck, as well as a brand-new, compatible Belt;

 

[NavLinear]

Good job on the shielding enclosure Tasuke. I agree that the wires coming from the cart are extremely small. Is anyone aware why these wires aren't shielded? It seems that could help for potential noise problems.

I very much agree with you Larry - the more you can do to isolate signals from each other and EMI sources the better. Thank you for keeping me straight as this is an edcuational experience for me. Please help in keeping me in line as the audio world is my new (actuallly refound) friend - and I hope you and others on this site will become friends given a little time and communication.

Dennis