Nakamichi T100 (not the software)

[Chris Cables]

Got a chance to bag one. Looks like a dog cosmetically so I'm not optimistic it's going to be 100% functional as most that are for sale seem to be.
The ones that have been refurbed/repaired/recapped etc make a big deal about it and charge accordingly.
Asked the seller for info and he's non-responsive so I'm automatically assuming it's a dog.

But maybe not...so what should I look out for? Anyone here got/use one?
Posted on TH and got a limited response. A member there might have one to sell if this one goes south.

 

[nakdoc]

I'm an expert on these...somehow I missed your TH post. Basically, if you can plug it in and see the first bargraph segment lit up, the T100 can be restored. A dead display is not a deal breaker though, two hi voltage caps in the display's little piggy back board are the first ones to fail. TapeHeads has several threads about these, but please, do not do a general recap. Calibrating these is a long process and requires external test equipment most folks do not have.

 

[Chris Cables]

I'm an expert on these...somehow I missed your TH post. Basically, if you can plug it in and see the first bargraph segment lit up, the T100 can be restored. A dead display is not a deal breaker though, two hi voltage caps in the display's little piggy back board are the first ones to fail. TapeHeads has several threads about these, but please, do not do a general recap. Calibrating these is a long process and requires external test equipment most folks do not have.

Thanks for the tips. How easy and frequently do these go out of spec? Is it safe to assume any given T100 will be out of spec and need calibrating unless stated otherwise?

 

[nakdoc]

Very very stable. The input buffer opamp always fails, and those display caps, but the only other real failure I've seen was a broken lead on the suspended 3kHz oscillator "crystal" mechanical resonator. If the T100 has not been used much, the two range lever switches are tough to clean by spray alone. I had to take both out and burnish all contacts on one unit.

 

[Chris Cables]

I shyed off nabbing the unit I referenced above. Being in such a dirty, dog-eared cosmetic condition put me right off it. Sort of when you see the state of the interior of the car of the chick you pulled that night and she offers to drive you back to hers 'for a night cap'. Been there, done that, got the stains. Never again. lol

Got a chance at another one however over the border in Bruges, Belgiumland and it looks to be in exceptional cosmetic condition.
Before I engage the seller and notwithstanding the excellent advice from nakdoc as above, does anyone else have anything to add in regards to assessing condition/buying these ?

(before anyone suggests it, I'll save you the trouble; I'm not buying into the NakT100 software as an alternative and I also use other equipment to calibrate decks fully, so this is mainly a nice-to-have and may be useful for cross-referencing measurements etc)


member 'chapai' over on that other forum added this to my thread there.

'only one thing, ok, two.
power up and display works. just show something even a bright spot in both lines.
then connect in to out and check speed calibration works so-so or use an external freq counter (3khz) - this means ceramic resonator works. These are two unique details in t-100. + transformer.
Check the rotary switch is not broken - even if it is not easy to break it, but who knows
all other things are not so important and fixable. Ok, sine generator you can check - just the signal is present or not. these mean jfet 2sk68aL and opamp alive.
All sold devices, if not specifically noted and the seller did it well and professionally - are uncalibrated. 100% and should be serviced.
If the device is not serviced all el-caps go to replacement first. '


concur/comments?