Is there a need for knobs?

J!m

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#21
These are 18-8 but high strength...
6AAE3BF5-A43A-4152-9192-F9DA55748FBF.jpeg
These have a .250 head but the top is dished.

I could turn the flange off.
 

J!m

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#22
I have reached out to another source about having them (the bolts) made.

If the sleeves are to be anodized, the alloy is critical...

A picture of the head finish would be good. If they’re being made custom I might as well have the finish right prior to passivation.
 

wattsabundant

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#24
If i understand correctly, the bolts will be a standard bolt with the head turned down to create the shoulder. The shoulder is very thin. The top of the head is plain unlike steel bolts that indicate their grade. I don't think the orginals had an anodize. The ferrules do have a champagne anodize.

To be clear, the round rack handles and ferrules were used on series II. The shoulder bolts were used on original 400's. 700B's had aluminum rack handles that were not anodized. The 700B handles are not round, hence no need for ferrules.
 

J!m

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#25
The shoulder on the underside of the head is typical. Keeps the points from digging into the metal.

The head being 1/4” tall is unusual. I went to a custom house and they just want to know quantity to quote it. How many are needed?
 

AngrySailor

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#26
Those face plate bolts are anodized no? Or at least the hex stock was and machined surfaces are, well, machined.
 

J!m

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#27
Aluminum fasteners will be passivated. Anodize might require a different alloy to avoid blotchiness.

they might end up machined on the flats but most likely not. Machined on the top is likely.
 

J!m

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#29
I said at least 20 needed; I guess they went home because I never heard back. I did ask what the minimum quantity is.
 

mlucitt

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#30
If the stock aluminum bolts were anodized, it was not done very well/thickly. Liquid metal polish will cut right through it. I think plain aluminum finish would be fine for us, the cost of anodizing a lot of 100 (minimum?) bolts would likely be more than the cost of the bolts.
I saw no machine tool marks on the hex sides of the bolt, I would offer that they were originally turned from 7/16" hex stock on a screw machine with a standard setup protocol except for the head height, which was adjusted to 1/4". Any machine shop with a screw machine should be able to duplicate 90 units of a Phase Linear faceplate bolt if a sample is delivered to them. The setup and runtime takes some time/cost ($200.00?), and then the cost of the Alloy 2011-T3 material which would be about $40 ($0.44 per inch/bolt) plus UPS oversize shipping. About $2.50 per bolt? Here:
https://tinyurl.com/ws2z6kk
 

J!m

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#32
I got the impression the company I found did short runs. If I don’t hear before, I’ll follow up Monday.
 

J!m

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#33
And they are taking a pass.

Probably for the best, since they suggested grinding the 5/32 high heads down to 1/4...

If they don’t know 1/4 is bigger than 5/32 they probably shouldn’t be making fasteners.

I have another idea- it won’t be exactly the same, but it will look that way.
 

J!m

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#34
If someone could post up clear close up photos of the bolt heads- sides top and bottom (thread side) I’ll see what I can do.

How many people even want these things? And how many each?

I also have an alternative solution- it is a stainless head with a black plastic (nylon) center “button” that might look good. But it’s not like the original obviously.
 

mlucitt

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#36
If someone could post up clear close up photos of the bolt heads- sides top and bottom (thread side) I’ll see what I can do.

How many people even want these things? And how many each?

I also have an alternative solution- it is a stainless head with a black plastic (nylon) center “button” that might look good. But it’s not like the original obviously.
Here are some cellphone pictures of the PL Faceplate Bolts
Faceplate Bolt 1.jpg

Faceplate Bolt 2.jpg
 

Skywavebe

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#37
I am often in search for knobs as in the D types used on the Tascam 122 Mk III or II. They can be found but the pointer reference is not right and often point entirely in the wrong direction. They would have been smart to make one that slip on the shaft and then can bb put on that part so that the reference pointer is then in he right direction. Often times I have to use screw type knobs that are different looking.
 
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