I got an axe to grind

J!m

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#1
A vintage True Temper “flint edge” axe head that needs some TLC and a new handle hung.

Been watching good videos from the Forrest service on proper care and use of an axe. Excellent videos even if you don’t want to cut down trees or collect axes. https://www.fs.usda.gov/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf18232812P/Part08_Sharpening.pdf

I already picked up a decent handle with proper grain and little run out. Got lucky at the hardware store near work- a couple other local places had either nothing or crap handles with massive run out or grain in the wrong orientation.

I also got a quart of boiled linseed oil for the finish. I may deviate and go with a West System deck coating epoxy since this may end up living outdoors on my roof rack.

Plans to start undoing the damage to the head today but no time. Next week hopefully.
 

J!m

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These are the before pictures:
IMG_0634.jpeg IMG_0635.jpeg IMG_0636.jpeg IMG_0637.jpeg

I already started on the mushrooms. I beat them down with a small sledge and then fused the cracks. Then the belt sander.

Later I found the file is faster than the belt sander and no heat.

As I’m working I discovered some cracks behind the eye. I wouldn’t have bought it if I had seen those… fused them and added a bit of filler wire in a couple spots.

Pressed out the old handle- only took four tons on the press to get it out. Based on that fit and the rust, I think it was original.

IMG_0641.jpeg

Inspecting without the handle in, the eye appeared a bit deformed, so a piece of aluminum in the press squished it back into shape with a mere two tons of force.

IMG_0643.jpeg

This thing is a paperweight but I’m going to polish this turd anyway as a learning experience. When I gave up for the day, it looked like this:

IMG_0642.jpeg
IMG_0644.jpeg
 

J!m

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You can still clearly see the darker temper line near the bit. And it’s really hard. Going from the soft steel to the hard on the belt sander you really see the difference in the sparks.

Often these get the handles “burned out” which destroys the temper. This thing is still hard as hell and should take a wicked edge.
 

Gepetto

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#7
You can still clearly see the darker temper line near the bit. And it’s really hard. Going from the soft steel to the hard on the belt sander you really see the difference in the sparks.

Often these get the handles “burned out” which destroys the temper. This thing is still hard as hell and should take a wicked edge.
Should be a thing of beauty before long Jim...
 

8991XJ

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#8
I got a hatchet I need to grind. No damage but I don't think it has the proper angle for the cutting edge cause it would rather stop than cut a little deeper into the wood. I guess I'll look over some of those links.
 

J!m

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#9
The angle of the primary edge and then the "fine edge" are clearly explained, and it seems a ~20-degree (included) angle is the ideal primary edge.

If you hone an edge like that, it should chop like butter. But also read the other explanations of exactly what is happening when you chop; how to set up the cut, tension in the log before chopping etc. There's a lot to it!
 

Bob Boyer

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#10
It is a good read. I saw the honing diagram. When we get back, I need to go through all my axes and hatchets and true them up accordingly. Haven't had time to study the mechanics of chopping; will get there next.
 

J!m

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I found You Tube videos from US Forest Service "axe man" I think it is. That guy uses a double-bit axe, but regardless, he gets through a 18" trunk in a few minutes with little effort - and he wasn't a big guy.

Chopping "smarter" and he was throwing chips bigger than cigarette packs with each chop.
 

George S.

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#18
Last night I read several threads on sites about Kelly Works history and the products.
Grubbing out stumps was given as the most common reason for blade chips.
Was interested in Geodesic Domes at a early age and have one book about the domes with lots of photos of Drop City.
The book says they cut the sheet metal off junk car roofs with axes.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drop_City
 
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