I’m considering an iron upgrade…

Well, I might build some Krells and restore the Dynaco…

I can’t hang with WOPL builders.
 
I will. Just messin.

I’m sure that Dynaco will need it too. Some overhand technique used on some of those solder blobs… even if it doesn’t work; for sure it’ll look better when I’m done with it.
 
Jim, if this is going to be your "forever" iron, then get the 80 watt. The Hakko 936 I use is 60 watt and I've found a few places that I stop and plug in a second iron to get the job done. The extra "horsepower" will make the jobs you do easier with cleaner results.
 
  • Like
Reactions: J!m
Yeah, I won’t go below 80w for sure. Maybe the Aragon board wouldn’t fall apart if I had it already…

probably not. such a crap board.
 
I use a Pace AD5200 for board level work. The fact that it its 700 degree in about 5t seconds appealed to me. Will the Weller's mentioned here work for the 40 amp bridge rectifiers and 12 gauge stranded cables etc? I bought one of the hot air SMD that I've used on back planes. Have to be very careful with it.
 
I think that’s why everyone uses crimp on terminals for the heavy stuff… 80w should do it- question is: how long will it take? And keeping it hot for long invites oxidation.

But it is something to keep in mind for those working on heavy stuff.

once over about 12 ga in everything I work on it’s all mechanical connections. That goes up to 0000 stranded copper in my case.
 
For items like automobile battery cables, normal procedure is to crimp the lugs, heat the lug with a small propane or butane torch, solder.
In aircraft maintenance they use big ass irons.
With a small chisel tip I can build a WOPL easily with a 60 watt Hakko 936. A pointy tip ain't gonna do it.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20210411_175401002.jpg
    PXL_20210411_175401002.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 5
You can get a Weller in the 120W and higher but I have yet to find the need for anything that big. Plus, it drives the price up too. It's all about what you want, how much you want to spend, tip availability and cost etc... Some guys are Brand Whores, some not. When you list out what you want, the cost of tips and pencils, a replacement element and compare costs and reviews, you'll find what you are looking for.

Never heard of a Pace AD5200 (Maybe a ADS200) but the Weller will solder the 40 amp BR's and everything else asked of it. Not everyone has the money for Hot Air Rework (plenty of free hot air here).

Here goes the "Dick Measuring Contest" Mine is bigger, mine is hotter, mine is longer............ Screw that. If you are working on amps and such, 80 Watts is fine no matter what brand you decide on.
 
I am a brand whore; BUT in order to get there, a brand has to earn it.

Weller has earned it.
Snap-On has earned it.
Land-Rover has earned it (pre-Tata)
BMW has earned it
Counterpoint has earned it.
TDK has earned it.
Red Wing has earned it.
Etc.

Let’s look at mechanic’s tools: I’m third generation, so I’ve been on all the trucks and used every mainline brand, Also a few European brands. And I’ve broken them all- INCLUDING Snap-On. But, I have the lowest failure rate with them. I have some sockets from WW2 that were my grandfather’s still fine. Plenty from my dad (and he had the “shop” toolbox everyone “borrowed” from) and of course mine. They have proven their worth to me. That’s how I become a brand whore.
 
I have only used the Pace and Weller soldering/desoldering equip and have had many years of service from each (Work horses for sure) and like you said, they earned it. Never used Metcal or??? so I make no claims but they have good reviews and followings.
 
We’re on the same page.

The Weller I have now has built a lot of guitars, restored guitar and bass amps, and put up with my general mistreatment since it was given to me. I’m going to stick with them, and keep my eyes peeled for the deal.

I think it will have to be used and the base and iron will probably come from different sources but I have a much better understanding of what exactly I want and need. This thread has been very helpful for me.
 
J!m said:
We’re on the same page.

The Weller I have now has built a lot of guitars, restored guitar and bass amps, and put up with my general mistreatment since it was given to me. I’m going to stick with them, and keep my eyes peeled for the deal.

I think it will have to be used and the base and iron will probably come from different sources but I have a much better understanding of what exactly I want and need. This thread has been very helpful for me.
Click to expand...


I bought my bases on the bay. Same for the pencils and accessories, all different sources too. They are plentiful so like you said, keep your eyes peeled and you'll find a good deal. I did buy the pencils new though. Watch the Chinee guys selling knockoffs :eek:
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
I have only used the Pace and Weller soldering/desoldering equip and have had many years of service from each (Work horses for sure) and like you said, they earned it. Never used Metcal or??? so I make no claims but they have good reviews and followings.
Click to expand...

I use the Metcal for all production soldering tasks EXCEPT the backplane PEM nuts and the swage connections for the capacitor boards. I use the WSP80 pencil for that.

Perry is correct, you can get a deal on a base sans pencil iron on Ebay and buy the pencil separately. I purchased a spare WSP80 pencil from China (they use tons of them as production irons in China) and it is not a knock off but rather came in the original Made in Germany packaging. It was like $60 for the spare. Shop carefully however as there may indeed be knock offs out there (not sure the Chinese think that is a big enough market tho)
 
With all the electronics they knock off they probably knock off the tools too…
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top