Copper Heatsinks

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#1
Would you need a fan on a WOPL 1000 at 4ohms load if you had copper heatsinks the same dimensions as the stock ones?
 

Gepetto

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
13,553
Location
Sterling, MA
Tagline
Old 'Arn Enthusiast
#2
Copper heatsinks will help keep semiconductor heat down Lee because copper conducts heat and electrical current better than aluminum but difficult to say without more rigorous analysis whether the improved conductivity benefit is enough to avoid forced air cooling under your conditions. Putting a black oxide finish on the copper will help the copper radiate into the air more efficiently but still don't know whether it will be enough. The copper will help keep all portions of the heatsink at closer to the same temperature than the aluminum (in other words, the aluminum will exhibit a larger temperature gradient from transistor to tips of the heat sink fins)
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,544
Location
SacTown!
#3
Gepetto said:
Copper heatsinks will help keep semiconductor heat down Lee because copper conducts heat and electrical current better than aluminum but difficult to say without more rigorous analysis whether the improved conductivity benefit is enough to avoid forced air cooling under your conditions. Putting a black oxide finish on the copper will help the copper radiate into the air more efficiently but still don't know whether it will be enough. The copper will help keep all portions of the heatsink at closer to the same temperature than the aluminum (in other words, the aluminum will exhibit a larger temperature gradient from transistor to tips of the heat sink fins)

My thoughts exactly....... NOT! :sad3:


:D
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#4
Well, Ed and I had talked about this a couple months ago. The thermal conductivity of copper is 5 times that of aluminum (I think) IIRC. So it's not that I have to have it go 4 ohms at max with no fans, this is mainly an excuse to build Ed a set of heatsinks for his 700B that he has noi heatsinks for. I mean if a fellas gonna build some , might as well be out of the good stuff. Ordered the copper today as a matter of fact after having a long talk with one of our machinists. I am going to take separate side pieces and silver solder them to the strap that will be milled for the TO-3's to mount to. Silver solder now comes in strips, so you put the strips between the two pieces and apply local heat to the joint. Pretty cool actually. I'm hoping Ed doesn't run his amps past the melting point of silver solder.
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#5
I will run some tests after making them comparing how the aluminum and copper behave differently if i can get the controls in place to make it repeatable and valid.
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#7
Rex Everything said:
This is getting very interesting. Of course you'll be documenting with pictures as you go....?

Well yeah, post and pic whore that I am.
 

speakerman1

Honorary Forum "Larrt" (ornery too)
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
12,037
Location
OZONE ALLEY MARS (Visitor)
Tagline
Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
#8
laatsch55 said:
Well, Ed and I had talked about this a couple months ago. The thermal conductivity of copper is 5 times that of aluminum (I think) IIRC. So it's not that I have to have it go 4 ohms at max with no fans, this is mainly an excuse to build Ed a set of heatsinks for his 700B that he has noi heatsinks for. I mean if a fellas gonna build some , might as well be out of the good stuff. Ordered the copper today as a matter of fact after having a long talk with one of our machinists. I am going to take separate side pieces and silver solder them to the strap that will be milled for the TO-3's to mount to. Silver solder now comes in strips, so you put the strips between the two pieces and apply local heat to the joint. Pretty cool actually. I'm hoping Ed doesn't run his amps past the melting point of silver solder.
What % Silver? You will have to figure out how to protect the copper from corrosion yet not mess with the heat dissipation. LMBO Can't believe I wrote that.

Larry
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#9
Why can't you beliweve you wrote that? Valid points Larrt. I think Joe may have nailed it with the black oxide finish statement. What percent silver in the silver solder??
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#10
Don't know Larrt, but 10 pieces, 36 inches long and 1/8 inch wide and .015 thick cost me 149.00
So I'm thinkin pretty high. This isn't like your regular silver and tin and lead combo, thia is what they use to solder carbide tips on cutting tools, good stuff.
 

speakerman1

Honorary Forum "Larrt" (ornery too)
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
12,037
Location
OZONE ALLEY MARS (Visitor)
Tagline
Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
#11
laatsch55 said:
Don't know Larrt, but 10 pieces, 36 inches long and 1/8 inch wide and .015 thick cost me 149.00
So I'm thinkin pretty high. This isn't like your regular silver and tin and lead combo, thia is what they use to solder carbide tips on cutting tools, good stuff.
You may have a hard time getting it to flow.

Larry
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#12
We don't seem to soldering carbide. It is pre-fluxed and clamped between the 2 pieces. There's enough temp difference between the copper and the solder that it shouldn't be a problem.
 

mlucitt

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
Messages
3,375
Location
Jacksonville, FL
#13
I might consider a mechanical bond. If the surfaces were polished smooth or lapped on a glass plate with pressure-sensitive abrasive (PSA), and then bolted together; I think the heat transfer coefficient might be better than copper - silver solder - copper. The bonus is you could unbolt it and try different configurations. De-soldering is always a messy proposition. You could even use some thermal heat sink compound, I hear there are folks out in Wyoming that put it under them big transistors that nobody uses anymore...
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,244
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#14
That was my first option Mark. But at 1/8 inch thick, drilling and tapping can be a pain in the ass. It may be that that is what I wind up doing. But i'll try soldering first.
 

speakerman1

Honorary Forum "Larrt" (ornery too)
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
12,037
Location
OZONE ALLEY MARS (Visitor)
Tagline
Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
#15
laatsch55 said:
We don't seem to soldering carbide. It is pre-fluxed and clamped between the 2 pieces. There's enough temp difference between the copper and the solder that it shouldn't be a problem.
Put my tinfoil hat on. LOL Never mind.

Larry
 

Fairchild

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
2,937
Location
Springpatch, IL
Tagline
It's Beer Season!
#16
speakerman1 said:
laatsch55 said:
We don't seem to soldering carbide. It is pre-fluxed and clamped between the 2 pieces. There's enough temp difference between the copper and the solder that it shouldn't be a problem.
Put my tinfoil hat on. LOL Never mind.

Larry
If you can't find yours, you can borrow mine.


Jim
 
Top