C-4000 Pre-Amp

frankmarsi

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#1
Does any one know of the part number or part number equivalent for the AC On-Off push-in switch to the Carver C-4000 pre-amplifier?
The one I have doesn't catch in the 'on' position any longer and is always problem to use.
Is it PN NE1839EE ?



Anyone in or near New Jersey that works on these and the other PL amps?
Best, Frank Marsi
 
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grapplesaw

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#2
I do not have the part number but it is the same switch as in the series two 700 phase linear.

As you see see in the photo the carver-4000 with wires attached and the phase linear switch by its self.
I have a couple spare but maybe Perry has one for you.
 

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frankmarsi

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#4
Hi grapplesaw, I really can't see how many lugs on in the foto but, I believe there's two or so on each side. I've also read that simply using the other side if one side's contacts are burnt? It's a hassel not having a single button. I've located some that look close on Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/611-NE1839EE?R=NE1839EEvirtualkey61170000virtualkey611-NE1839EE

What do you think, are these the ones?
FM
PS. O.K. I just saw the ones you mentioned on the auction site but he says buyer must use their own bracket. Which bracket does he mean? If it's those tiny eared ones, those little ears can be tough to get just perfectly bent into position. What do you think?

 
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grapplesaw

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Hi grapplesaw, I really can't see how many lugs on in the foto but, I believe there's two or so on each side. I've also read that simply using the other side if one side's contacts are burnt? It's a hassel not having a single button. I've located some that look close on Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/611-NE1839EE?R=NE1839EEvirtualkey61170000virtualkey611-NE1839EE

What do you think, are these the ones?
FM
PS. O.K. I just saw the ones you mentioned on the auction site but he says buyer must use their own bracket. Which bracket does he mean? If it's those tiny eared ones, those little ears can be tough to get just perfectly bent into position. What do you think?

The bracket you have now holding the switch with the other two is what they refer to.
just pry the tabs open a little and replace the switch then crimp them back down. Very easy with needle nose plyers
 

frankmarsi

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#7
The bracket you have now holding the switch with the other two is what they refer to.
just pry the tabs open a little and replace the switch then crimp them back down. Very easy with needle nose plyers
Thank you "grapplesaw", you've been very helpful. I just now purchased one.
I'm thinking I'd have to remove the bottom cover of the C4000 to get to it. Do you think I can use the original capacitor as finding just one or two
is probably not possible except for maybe ratshack and who knows of their quality?
FM
 
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marcok

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#8
Dear FM ,
I have a C 4000 preamp and I use a remote controlled external switch ( 16 A ) , so no problem at all
with 2 M400 A power amps .
My suggestion is to use an internal 16 A relay to drive power amp .
I modified my Dynaco Pat 4 preamp in this way to save the power switch .
Simply copy PL 4000 preamp .The value of cap is 22000 pF 400V for 120 Vac and 630V for 230 Vac .
Ciao
Marco
 

frankmarsi

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#9
Dear FM ,
I have a C 4000 preamp and I use a remote controlled external switch ( 16 A ) , so no problem at all
with 2 M400 A power amps .
My suggestion is to use an internal 16 A relay to drive power amp .
I modified my Dynaco Pat 4 preamp in this way to save the power switch .
Simply copy PL 4000 preamp .The value of cap is 22000 pF 400V for 120 Vac and 630V for 230 Vac .
Ciao
Marco

Grazi a tutti.
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#10
Frank, you DONT need an external 16 amp relay to power that C4000. they only have like a quarter amp fuse in them so they draw nearly nothing for current. Make sure you dont plug much into the ac outlets on the back of the unit. CERTAINLY NOT A WOPL. When that mouser switch arrives, and doesnt fit, give me a yell, i have the correct switches. It sounds worn out, not burnt.
 

marcok

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#11
Frank, you DONT need an external 16 amp relay to power that C4000. they only have like a quarter amp fuse in them so they draw nearly nothing for current. Make sure you dont plug much into the ac outlets on the back of the unit. CERTAINLY NOT A WOPL. When that mouser switch arrives, and doesnt fit, give me a yell, i have the correct switches. It sounds worn out, not burnt.
Perry ,
I have suggested two methods to fix the problem after replacing the power switch :
1) an external relay I/R controlled ( a multi socket equipped with a 16 A switch can be used ). (my C 4000 solution )
2) an internal relay powered by power switch to operate the switched outlets. ( my Dynaco solution )
Sorry for the mismatch , but sometimes I use a short summary when I write .
Ciao
Marco
 

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#12
Perry ,
I have suggested two methods to fix the problem after replacing the power switch :
1) an external relay I/R controlled ( a multi socket equipped with a 16 A switch can be used ). (my C 4000 solution )
2) an internal relay powered by power switch to operate the switched outlets. ( my Dynaco solution )
Sorry for the mismatch , but sometimes I use a short summary when I write .
Ciao
Marco
Marco, the problem is probably not a burnt switch. It sounds worn out switch since it wont stay latched. That could be a lot of unnecessary work if he has limited experience. A new switch with a snubber would cure his issue for another 40 years. They just don't draw enough power to kill those TV3/TV5 Switches. They take a fair amount of current.
 

marcok

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#13
O.K . Perry !
Remember also that I'm a maniac of reliability ,due to my job history .
Ciao
Marco
 

marcok

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#15
It means that I have modified my gears to improve the reliability .
1) PL 4000 : all rear connectors and 35 V caps
2) Dynaco Pat 4 : internal relay with caps for switched outlets
3) PL 1000 : connectors , caps and a cap on power switch
4) Akai CR 80 D : cap on power switch
5) Tandberg Tcd 320 : cap on power switch
6) 510 Ohm dethump resistors on PL 400 for Infinity RS III ( see PL 400 / PL 700 service manuals )
7) Good quality connections , that is the most important thing in electronics
All these improvments don't affect the sound !
That' s is due to my job experience on PCM and RF professional systems .
That's all Perry !
Ciao
Marco
 

frankmarsi

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#16
""
Marco, the problem is probably not a burnt switch. It sounds worn out switch since it wont stay latched. That could be a lot of unnecessary work if he has limited experience. A new switch with a snubber would cure his issue for another 40 years. They just don't draw enough power to kill those TV3/TV5 Switches. They take a fair amount of current.
"""


@ WOPL Sniffer,


You are describing exactly what the switch is doing. It definitely feels and appears that the switch is simply not grabbing or catching into the on position. So, either it's a worn minor part of the mechanism. My experience would let me remove it and slot another switch in but, I really don't want to go through such a hassel. And even though as it appears I may have to anyway, I wonder if there was another way? Every input and output on that pre-amp is occupied and moving stuff on top of it and around it is probably at least four hours work or so.
FM
 

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#17
Other than a switchable power strip or other such option, switch replacement is the logical procedure..
 

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#18
Yeah, a new switch is less than 20 bucks... and not too big of a job. I think the 4000's only had a 1.25 amp fuse in them and they don't draw even that much. (if you have a bunch of stuff plugged into the Switchable outlets, then they draw a bit more through the switch (those 3 outlets are switched but not fused). Hell, I think the power switch is good for 5 or more amps since Bob says that you can plug a 1000 watt amp into the switched outlet... I wouldn't recommend it though. And when you wire the switch across both IN terminals with a snubber, you may be able to get away with a big amp plugged into the back (I still wouldn't).
 

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#19
Other than a switchable power strip or other such option, switch replacement is the logical procedure..
Lee, if the switch won't latch to the on position, even a power strip wont help unless you glue the button in... I think.....

HUH?
 
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