Another Phase Linear 400 Series one rebuild thread

Plugging away. Work accomplished (Or is it play?):

Installed new fuse holders
Replaced the stock cord with a 16AWG NEMA 1-15P TO SJT Cable. The new cord is 4 ft and enters the cabinet through a new strain relief bushing.
Replaced old Caps with 15,000 uF/100V/105C Capacitors
Installed a new Bridge Snubber with 50A/600V bridge rectifier.
Replaced old meter light board with new LED board, together with a meter sensitivity switch.
Replaced Bus Bar Assembly
Tested all Output Transistors
Added rack handles for cool factor
-waiting for arrival of Output Relay, and that should do it for round one. (and the usual testing and bias setting)

I did have a question. The PL400 manual states the amp can draw up to 1200W at peak power. The switched outlet on the back of my PL3000 S2 preamp states 500W max. I would have thought Phase Linear would have made the switched outlet on the back of the preamp to allow for plugging the unswitchable PL amps to be plugged into them? Perhaps not a question, but an observation.
 
Sunnbobb said:
Plugging away. Work accomplished (Or is it play?):

Installed new fuse holders
Replaced the stock cord with a 16AWG NEMA 1-15P TO SJT Cable. The new cord is 4 ft and enters the cabinet through a new strain relief bushing.
Replaced old Caps with 15,000 uF/100V/105C Capacitors
Installed a new Bridge Snubber with 50A/600V bridge rectifier.
Replaced old meter light board with new LED board, together with a meter sensitivity switch.
Replaced Bus Bar Assembly
Tested all Output Transistors
Added rack handles for cool factor
-waiting for arrival of Output Relay, and that should do it for round one. (and the usual testing and bias setting)

I did have a question. The PL400 manual states the amp can draw up to 1200W at peak power. The switched outlet on the back of my PL3000 S2 preamp states 500W max. I would have thought Phase Linear would have made the switched outlet on the back of the preamp to allow for plugging the unswitchable PL amps to be plugged into them? Perhaps not a question, but an observation.
Click to expand...
if you dont know mr. laatschs rule....i will now inform you...
pay attention, please...
NO PICS...DIDNT HAPPEN...
please refrain from future rule violations...
mr laatsch appointed me picture police...
 
Sunnbobb said:
Plugging away. Work accomplished (Or is it play?):

Installed new fuse holders
Replaced the stock cord with a 16AWG NEMA 1-15P TO SJT Cable. The new cord is 4 ft and enters the cabinet through a new strain relief bushing.
Replaced old Caps with 15,000 uF/100V/105C Capacitors
Installed a new Bridge Snubber with 50A/600V bridge rectifier.
Replaced old meter light board with new LED board, together with a meter sensitivity switch.
Replaced Bus Bar Assembly
Tested all Output Transistors
Added rack handles for cool factor
-waiting for arrival of Output Relay, and that should do it for round one. (and the usual testing and bias setting)

I did have a question. The PL400 manual states the amp can draw up to 1200W at peak power. The switched outlet on the back of my PL3000 S2 preamp states 500W max. I would have thought Phase Linear would have made the switched outlet on the back of the preamp to allow for plugging the unswitchable PL amps to be plugged into them? Perhaps not a question, but an observation.
Click to expand...
They also made 200 and 300 watt amps when that preamp was made.
Many off us use a power strip to turn the amp and preamp on, saving the irreplaceable preamp power switch.
Here's a photo of the system I'm listening to right now.
A old Intermatic Electraguard power strip, 2000 S2 preamp, WOAD 700 Pro.
 

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As ordered by the honorable Durector of Photography...
 

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  • pl 400 prior to output relay.jpg
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Sunnbobb said:
As ordered by the honorable Durector of Photography...
Click to expand...
Building Hint:
You should put the #10 flat washer provided followed by an internal tooth lock washer and then 10-24 hex nut on the top of the hold down plate. The flat washer will keep the hex nut from scuffing up the hold down plate.
 
Gepetto said:
Building Hint:
You should put the #10 flat washer provided followed by an internal tooth lock washer and then 10-24 hex nut on the top of the hold down plate. The flat washer will keep the hex nut from scuffing up the hold down plate.
Click to expand...
direct from the honorable director of wopls!!!!
 
Gepetto said:
Building Hint:
You should put the #10 flat washer provided followed by an internal tooth lock washer and then 10-24 hex nut on the top of the hold down plate. The flat washer will keep the hex nut from scuffing up the hold down plate.
Click to expand...
Thanks, the nut is only there to hold the plate temp. I still have to solder the output relay wire to the bridge (reword: bridge snubber board)
 
Last edited:
Yup. That's what the directions say to do. I agree. I'll post pictures of my finished project when I'm done. Appreciate the eagle eye.
 
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