ADC Sound Shaper Thirty Three Stereo Frequency Equalizer

Fishoz

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#1
So....neighbor popped over yesterday with this equalizer he had sitting around, thought I'd like to have it. OK...now what do I do and how in the hell do you hook it up?

Never had an equalizer - always liked my music without color. Is it even worthwhile hooking up to my system???
 

laatsch55

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#2
Do you detect deficiencies in you system?

Run.it through your tape monitor loop or processor loop .
 

BlazeES

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#3
You should try it out. Cost you nothing and you can check that bucket-list item as 'Been there - done that'. Just connect it up through a Tape loop and give it a whirl.
There is always a recording suffering from s h ! t mastering that can benefit from a little boost or attenuation here or there. And for the rest of the time you just by-pass it by not engaging the Tape loop...

or you can dispose of it.
 

kingman

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#13
Have an ADC eq. series 20? Used it with a pair of Bose 901's. Only speaker I had that I thought could benefit from it.
 

62vauxhall

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#14
I am the De-Oxit King!!! Soak that sucker!
I'm leery of using contact cleaner in EQ slides. It made them real stiff to move in a 20 band per side MXR EQ and an NEC 10 band. That MXR used up a lot of cleaner too.

Tried using it again recently as an experiment, on the slide pots of a friend's nearly gone from this world all-in-one receiver. It turned out to be totally buggered so if I ruined the slides, no biggie. And it did.
 

Bradrock

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#15
I have seen slider cleaning/repair kits recently. You need to disassemble them to do it right.
Deoxit has a couple different fader lube/ cleaners too.
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#16
I'm leery of using contact cleaner in EQ slides. It made them real stiff to move in a 20 band per side MXR EQ and an NEC 10 band. That MXR used up a lot of cleaner too.

Tried using it again recently as an experiment, on the slide pots of a friend's nearly gone from this world all-in-one receiver. It turned out to be totally buggered so if I ruined the slides, no biggie. And it did.
You shouldn't need any "Contact Cleaner"... Use Deoxit F-5 as it is a cleaner with fader lube and then follow up with a drop or two of F-100L which is straight fader lube. I just used it on an Altec Lansing 729A and it worked like a charm. Regular contact cleaner is hard on the sliders but the D5 and the F5 are fine as long as you follow up with the F-100L before the D5/F5 dry. I also do this to the Volume controls on the 700's. They also make a fader grease but it's hard to get it where you need it and sometimes requires disassembly of the fader/slide/pot to apply properly.
https://caig.com/deoxit-grease-landing/
 

62vauxhall

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#17
You shouldn't need any "Contact Cleaner"... Use Deoxit F-5 as it is a cleaner with fader lube and then follow up with a drop or two of F-100L which is straight fader lube. I just used it on an Altec Lansing 729A and it worked like a charm. Regular contact cleaner is hard on the sliders but the D5 and the F5 are fine as long as you follow up with the F-100L before the D5/F5 dry. I also do this to the Volume controls on the 700's. They also make a fader grease but it's hard to get it where you need it and sometimes requires disassembly of the fader/slide/pot to apply properly.
https://caig.com/deoxit-grease-landing/
I wish I'd known that before as I have F-5. Unfortunately I was following the instructions as told to me by the guy in the music store - "De-Oxit first and then F-5" so that's what I did. As a matter of fact, he sold me F-5 as Fader Lube because that's what I asked for.

So thanks for the heads up on that. If I ever come across slides again, I'll use F-5. But your saying that F-100L (never seen it yet but haven't looked or asked for it either) is a necessary last step?
 

laatsch55

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#18
100 first , then F5 is USUALLY the way to go. I have learned over the years that ya just can't tell how an old pot will respond to the Caig chemicals. I have cleaned and relubed sliders with 100,. then F5, or F5, then 100 the De-oxit "GOLD". I do not have a consensus for what ever way is best or the best combination. I do know once a pot has been stripped of its lube , it rarely works smooth again. Sometimes, it can be usable, but never like new.
IF IN doubt, like Perry, I go with the F5 first, F5 seems to be a good and safe first strike. If that doesn't do it, then ya ain't got much to lose, go with the 100, then F5. I do know, it's a better shot before the pot gets "sticky" or hard to turn...
 

laatsch55

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#19
The 100 in my case is D100, haven't worked with the F100...I better look into it...
 
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