700B/ Series II heat sinks

Geegz

Geegz

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#21
grapplesaw said:
I have measured and 2"x 6" X 1/16" rectangular aluminum tubing should work. Just cut off one end at stock length or leave them long at full 6". I am going to build a set. The high heat sensors will have to be mounted prior to assembly with counter sink screws from the back side. I am using six of these in my monster mono build in 1/4" wall. Say tuned. It's a little down (3or4) on my list. Need a full comp 400 first. Then finish referb of my original 700 series one then after that. In the mean time I am ordering the heat sink stock




Thats exaxtly right, was going to do the exact thing only with 1/8" aluminum 2" x 6" rectangular tubing. The 1/8" thick will slightly crowd the backplane board hardware but can be clearanced manually. A good carbide blade and some lubrication wax on a mitre saw makes quick work of cutting extruded aluminum tubing, been fabricating motorocyle racing parts like this for years.
Click to expand...
 

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Geegz

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#23
laatsch55 said:
is 1-3/4 unavailable??
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i scoured EBay and Amazon for a 1-3/4" x 1/8" wall but couldn't find anything. I am sure an extruder out there has one but I haven't found it yet. With Glen using 1/16" he wouldn't having any crowding issues with the backplane hardware but might not be enough "aluminum mass" for heat dissipation.
 
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#24
There was a discussion about mass here at one time....area has more to do with it than mass, but mass is also important too...if it was me I'd stick with the 1/8"....any copper rectangle out there??

Also, how are you going to layout the holes? You can't layout or transfer from the amp side, you'll wind up with a mirror image and the "tilt" of the outputs will be opposite of what they should be....I've tried it. I had to lay out mine from the transistor side by clamping a stock heatsink to the copper plate and using a transfer punch. A real machinist could could drill the holes on a mill with a DRO but man, that's a lot of work...
 
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#26
laatsch55 said:
There was a discussion about mass here at one time....area has more to do with it than mass, but mass is also important too...if it was me I'd stick with the 1/8"....any copper rectangle out there??

Also, how are you going to layout the holes? You can't layout or transfer from the amp side, you'll wind up with a mirror image and the "tilt" of the outputs will be opposite of what they should be....I've tried it. I had to lay out mine from the transistor side by clamping a stock heatsink to the copper plate and using a transfer punch. A real machinist could could drill the holes on a mill with a DRO but man, that's a lot of work...
Click to expand...

I would tranfer it to a piece of flat stock (probably steel) and use that as a template (jig), that can be reversed to get the correct angle. If you use steel less chance of the drill drifting and can reuse the template (jig) multiple times. Just have to take your time with the intitial template.
 
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#28
Geegz said:
grapplesaw said:
I have measured and 2"x 6" X 1/16" rectangular aluminum tubing should work. Just cut off one end at stock length or leave them long at full 6". I am going to build a set. The high heat sensors will have to be mounted prior to assembly with counter sink screws from the back side. I am using six of these in my monster mono build in 1/4" wall. Say tuned. It's a little down (3or4) on my list. Need a full comp 400 first. Then finish referb of my original 700 series one then after that. In the mean time I am ordering the heat sink stock




Thats exaxtly right, was going to do the exact thing only with 1/8" aluminum 2" x 6" rectangular tubing. The 1/8" thick will slightly crowd the backplane board hardware but can be clearanced manually. A good carbide blade and some lubrication wax on a mitre saw makes quick work of cutting extruded aluminum tubing, been fabricating motorocyle racing parts like this for years.
Click to expand...
I was thinking 1/8 and typed 1/16. There is some 2x5x.188 out there as well. 1/4" is to thick to use with a stock chassis or Joe's. If I use the 1/4 the sockets will mount directly rest to the 1/4" channel
Click to expand...
 
grapplesaw

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#29
Geegz said:
I would tranfer it to a piece of flat stock (probably steel) and use that as a template (jig), that can be reversed to get the correct angle. If you use steel less chance of the drill drifting and can reuse the template (jig) multiple times. Just have to take your time with the intitial template.
Click to expand...
Thats right
i was going to space a chassis above a piece of 4140 flat stock and then line up each hole with right drill size and then lock down and center drill each hole. I will oil harden the jig after so it will take a lot of use. Now if I had a NC mill like some here have then it would be a lot easier.
 
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#34
Gepetto said:
If I get enough interest, I will get these PL700 Heat Sinks made up.

Aluminum Anodized price per set of 4 is $113 including shipping
Copper no finish price per set of 4 is $400 including shipping

Copper with Black Oxide is ridiculous so will not even give you that price.

View attachment 28760


View attachment 28761
Click to expand...
Ill take a set of anodized Joe.
 
oldphaser

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#36
Gepetto said:
If I get enough interest, I will get these PL700 Heat Sinks made up.

Aluminum Anodized price per set of 4 is $113 including shipping
Copper no finish price per set of 4 is $400 including shipping

Copper with Black Oxide is ridiculous so will not even give you that price.

View attachment 28760


View attachment 28761
Click to expand...
Joe,

I will want some as well.
At a minimum (1) set of (4) black anodized aluminum heat-sinks to fit either a 700B or 700 series II amp.

I am assuming these are the same dimensions as the originals?

If I buy several more sets at the same time, can you combine shipping and save me a few dollars on shipping?

Thanks!
Ed
 
Geegz

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#38
If it helps with the group buy I will take 1 set of anodized aluminum.
 
laatsch55

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Just for shits and giggles Joe, what is the black oxide copper going to run?
 
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