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I got my mouser order today and in it was a roll of Kester 245. So project "Populate Control Board" began. Decided to do this on the front porch so all I got done was the 1/4w resistors. Here's some pics and feedback would be appreciated from the wise!

Ok will do Joe Is a ring terminal on top of the DCP board a suitable connection?

Yes Don's DCP installed and functional I presume. I took a video of what happens but it is too big to be uploaded apparently. The meter input leads come from the back plane so if the DCP is functional the outputs/speakers will see nothing that is shown on the meters after power is cut. Quiet...

I just unplugged it to open it up and approximately 2-3 seconds after power off the meters jumped close to the 0(red zone) then very slowly went back to resting state. Is this a normal thing because I don't remember seeing it before?

Thanks gene Just had a look at one of the boards I haven't installed yet and saw the moveable jumpers! Dumbass move by me yet a cheap lesson in the checking and cross checking needed when populating the control board and back planes. Anyway the switch is not needed for me as I will rarely...

Did you drill the chassis and mount it gene?

I replaced the light board on my original 4 finner today and am very happy with the results! By far the easiest upgrade I have done so far although I did need to use 3 spacers to get board at the right height for the LEDs. I also realised why the original pl18 stopped working suddenly a few...

Today I felt like a kid on Xmas day when I got home from work and found this waiting for me! So excited I will somehow get over the postal service here being so shit. The packaging of the gear for shipping was faultless as is the the individual component packaging. It seems Joe has thought of...

It was my first time today with flux, in my limited training it was said there is enough flux in solder for the job....... Today I believe I learnt otherwise! What are your preferences when soldering new boards (White Oak board's especially) and when reworking old boards?

Mr Rye Are you saying that I could use 3 of these instead? https://mou.sr/3rVm3v9 Also are there any other parts I should look at replacing before firing up? FYI I have had it about 5 years now and haven't turned it on and the previous owner said he last turned it on in the very early 90s.

Thought I would post some pics of my valve amps I currently have. The big black ugly beast is a Grant G-100AS circa mid to late 80s, estimated 50w per channel and approx 40kg. Made in the UK by Roy Grant and it certainly sounds better than it looks. The receiver is a Pioneer circa 60s I think...

Steve I forgot to mention the diode readings I posted the first number was forward bias and the second reverse bias. I don't have a Fluke but it is a true RMS dmm, yes it's Chinese but it wasn't a cheap one at $150AUD. And we all know that everything is now made in china, except babies they are...

Gene Diagnosing the fault seems to be way over my head. I know what parts are what however when testing I'm not confident in how to determine if the results shown show a good or faulty part. Results from my testing of diodes on Sunday Left channel 1 .598, .611 2 .611, .597 3 .621, ol 4...

So I got a bit excited and stripped the input garbage, then with input leads taped I fired it up with the dbt. Bulb went bright then dimmed lower than before. All good I thought and checked offset, both channels are now showing rail voltage. Will this help sourcing the problem?

Ok, diode check done. First number forward biasing second reverse Left channel 1 598, 611 2 611, 597 3 621, ol 4 604, 1.874 5 598, 1.8 6 as above 7 same 8 587, 1.535 9 600, ol 10 621, ol 11 600, 1.9 12 as above 13 0.071, 0.071 14 450, ol 15 as above Right channel had pretty close to same...

Sorry I didn't ask the right question. I get the earth for each channel but don't understand the third earth. Especially when the three earth's coming from the board went to the one spot

I have just removed the balanced input junk there is 5 wires going to the control board. Three of them are earths that went to the left input with a jumper cable connecting to the right negative. There is also a bridging going to the right channel ground only. When I reconnect to RCA's how...

Does this help?

Also would I need to replace q8,q9 on both channels?

Ok Can I test with those wires you mentioned taped off? I'll get some sili pads tomorrow for some of the old outputs from my 4 fin and see what happens.