700B submerged in 6” of water....hmmmmm...

It is a balanced input conversion board Federico. If you got this donor amp from Lee, it is probably part of the Aerosmith amp tranche that I helped Lee get from Terry Hanley Audio warehouse up in Lawrence MA years back. Most all of the Aerosmith amps had been converted to phone jack inputs and had these kludged up balanced to S-E converter boards in the front end.
 
The switch you're asking about was the "Direct/Normal" coupling switch. Normal mode kept a capacitor in the circuit, direct bypassed that cap.
 
The switch you're asking about was the "Direct/Normal" coupling switch. Normal mode kept a capacitor in the circuit, direct bypassed that cap.
thanks so much!
Do you think this is something to be kept?
I mean... if the Aerosmith techs removed it ;)
 
thanks so much!
Do you think this is something to be kept?
I mean... if the Aerosmith techs removed it ;)
Most wire direct and bypass this rather useless switch...(like in the PL400 you just completed). Some mount the switch for decoration purposes but do not wire to it.
 
Most wire direct and bypass this rather useless switch...(like in the PL400 you just completed). Some mount the switch for decoration purposes but do not wire to it.
thk Joe, like Lee Sklar's famous "useless" switch on his bass guitar... he was fooling most engineers by flipping the switch and asking "how does it sound now?"
 
Well... after a lot of mechanical "disintegration" work, the chassis is clean and with no sign of water / rust (i have to say: kudos Phase Linear for the good paint!)
I preserved the green "Linda" sticker as a sign of respect for the worker who assembled this unit so many years ago.

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I have received the Deoxit D100 and started the heavy treatment on the VU meter.

I should look for new fuse holders (or get them from the donor amp) as a couple of them broke during removal (the material was a bit brittle). Any recommendations?
Should look for a new AC Cord (I believe that the recommendation is to stay with 2 prong). Recommendations are welcome.
The only other thing I could assemble until I order the WO parts would be the transformer but I think that that would complicate moving the chassis around to assemble all other things. is there any known recommended assembly sequence?
Thank you all and a good weekend!

PS: any reply with a Mouser / Digikey / Amazon, etc link gets bonus points.... hahahaha :)
 
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Modern fuse holders are not 50-year old Bakelite. Replace them ALL with modern ones in the same form factor. Plus you can go to more common fuses as well.
 
I hope you didn't squirt the D-100 INTO the meter movement. And whatever you do, don't use compressed air to clean it out.
 
I hope you didn't squirt the D-100 INTO the meter movement. And whatever you do, don't use compressed air to clean it out.
I hope for the same ;)
The hairspin wasn't moving and now it is (after applying the D100 liquid and cleaning with the D5 spray), i think that's a good sign (or at least a better one than when it was stuck)
No compressed air was used, just the spray from the Deoxit 5 applied from a couple of inches away
 
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thank you Bill, I hope I can bring it back to life ;)
Thank you for your generosity!
 
Just read the entire thread @TelRay and I think its awesome what you have done here. A lot of time and effort. Its amazing. This is something I would have tried. I like getting these old amps back as stock as possible. One day I may buy all new W.O. and do up a really killer amplifier but in the past I have restored them as close to factory look and used as close to factory parts as I can get. I joined here in 2017 and restored a PL. 400 8 fin and reused the factory mainboard, all the factory outputs put in W.O. LEDs and filter caps, Dons board and it has been 8 years now pushing a set of Polk Audio 4 ohm SDA-SRS2's all that time running cool as a cucumber without a fan in sight. The guys here on site are why. I could not had done it on my own.
 
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