700B submerged in 6” of water....hmmmmm...

[TelRay]

Might be for balanced inputs, the phone jack might actually be a TRS jack. Some of these were used in PA systems

thank you, it might as well be the case as the information I had from @berndt is that this was one of the Aerosmith PA PL700s donated by @laatsch55

 

[Gepetto]

It is a balanced input conversion board Federico. If you got this donor amp from Lee, it is probably part of the Aerosmith amp tranche that I helped Lee get from Terry Hanley Audio warehouse up in Lawrence MA years back. Most all of the Aerosmith amps had been converted to phone jack inputs and had these kludged up balanced to S-E converter boards in the front end.

 

[J!m]

That's what I was thinking too, but I don't see any single ended inputs... could be it ignores the third leg when used with a TS rather than balanced with a TRS

 

[laatsch55]

The switch you're asking about was the "Direct/Normal" coupling switch. Normal mode kept a capacitor in the circuit, direct bypassed that cap.

 

[TelRay]

The switch you're asking about was the "Direct/Normal" coupling switch. Normal mode kept a capacitor in the circuit, direct bypassed that cap.

thanks so much!
Do you think this is something to be kept?
I mean... if the Aerosmith techs removed it

 

[Gepetto]

thanks so much!
Do you think this is something to be kept?
I mean... if the Aerosmith techs removed it

Most wire direct and bypass this rather useless switch...(like in the PL400 you just completed). Some mount the switch for decoration purposes but do not wire to it.

 

[J!m]

Personally, I would bypass it. It's another failure point and not the best switch (possibly the worst one in fact).

 

[TelRay]

Most wire direct and bypass this rather useless switch...(like in the PL400 you just completed). Some mount the switch for decoration purposes but do not wire to it.

thk Joe, like Lee Sklar's famous "useless" switch on his bass guitar... he was fooling most engineers by flipping the switch and asking "how does it sound now?"

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I remove them and cover the hole.

 

[TelRay]

Well... after a lot of mechanical "disintegration" work, the chassis is clean and with no sign of water / rust (i have to say: kudos Phase Linear for the good paint!)
I preserved the green "Linda" sticker as a sign of respect for the worker who assembled this unit so many years ago.



I have received the Deoxit D100 and started the heavy treatment on the VU meter.

I should look for new fuse holders (or get them from the donor amp) as a couple of them broke during removal (the material was a bit brittle). Any recommendations?
Should look for a new AC Cord (I believe that the recommendation is to stay with 2 prong). Recommendations are welcome.
The only other thing I could assemble until I order the WO parts would be the transformer but I think that that would complicate moving the chassis around to assemble all other things. is there any known recommended assembly sequence?
Thank you all and a good weekend!

PS: any reply with a Mouser / Digikey / Amazon, etc link gets bonus points.... hahahaha

 

[J!m]

Modern fuse holders are not 50-year old Bakelite. Replace them ALL with modern ones in the same form factor. Plus you can go to more common fuses as well.

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

I hope you didn't squirt the D-100 INTO the meter movement. And whatever you do, don't use compressed air to clean it out.

 

[TelRay]

I hope you didn't squirt the D-100 INTO the meter movement. And whatever you do, don't use compressed air to clean it out.

I hope for the same
The hairspin wasn't moving and now it is (after applying the D100 liquid and cleaning with the D5 spray), i think that's a good sign (or at least a better one than when it was stuck)
No compressed air was used, just the spray from the Deoxit 5 applied from a couple of inches away

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

HUH?

 

[berndt]

It's really nice to see Federico caring the torch on this project

 

[TelRay]

thank you Bill, I hope I can bring it back to life
Thank you for your generosity!