Repairing Diaphrams on the BMS 4592 Compression Driver.

laatsch55

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OK guys help me out here. New ones are 212.50. These appear fixable if someone knows of a cold solder process or an electrical conducting glue. On the close up the copper conductor split as it goes up and into the voice coil. I can get a little overlap, but I tink longer than a second with a soldering iron will melt the plastic dome material. Any suggestions??
 

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OK guys help me out here. New ones are 212.50. These appear fixable if someone knows of a cold solder process or an electrical conducting glue. On the close up the copper conductor split as it goes up and into the voice coil. I can get a little overlap, but I tink longer than a second with a soldering iron will melt the plastic dome material. Any suggestions??

Lee, I would try some of the liquid repair material that you use to repair broken window defroster grid wires.
 
Where the break is is the place where the diaphram moves the most. I have repaired some where the break was further away from the voice coil. Maybe try a piece of small solder wick. Make sure you put a piece of matchbook cardboard under it to keep the heat away from the plastic when you solder it.
 
Where the break is is the place where the diaphram moves the most. I have repaired some where the break was further away from the voice coil. Maybe try a piece of small solder wick. Make sure you put a piece of matchbook cardboard under it to keep the heat away from the plastic when you solder it.

Or try silver epoxy Lee. It is used often for making flex circuit connections. You can get small syringes of it for under $10
 
Silver epoxy?? Now somebody was thinking.... Nice Joe. Mark, in some places where it is broke it can not stand to be any thicker, hence the conductive glue strategy.
 
Silver epoxy?? Now somebody was thinking.... Nice Joe. Mark, in some places where it is broke it can not stand to be any thicker, hence the conductive glue strategy.

Here is a sample link Lee, others are easy to find. Make sure you get one of them with the high electrical conductivity. They make it both ways, the ones used for thermal conductivity only are generally not good on electrical conductivity.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pr...=18584042659&gclid=CPLHqPbe07kCFUqk4AodTH4ANQ
 
Thanks Joe, had already been to Mouser, Digi-Key, Parts Express....
 
Got the glue today so I dissected the one I couldn't fix to see how far you could tear em down. Almost top the bare plastic dome material. It seems the last thing to separate it from is the hardest so the first time on a practice dummy it did separate. On this one it acted like it wasn't going to separate so I held the pieces apart with some cotton swabs smeared a little glue on em then clamped with the Vise-Grips. We'll see in about 30 minutes if it was successful.
 

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Epic failure, pulled right off. That was with the defroster glue. Maybe I id not get it clean enough. Gonna order the epoxy now.
 
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