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mslupczynski

New Around These Parts
Joined
Jun 4, 2023
Messages
10
#1
Happy New Year everyone!

Introduction and Question. (Hope I'm not breaking protocol by combining the two.)
I've been reading this forum for a couple years and until now was just gathering information and researching for my build pile. I've mainly been posting on AudioKarma for rebuild and trouble-shooting issues. I'm still learning how to write less and post more pictures and reference data to get better help. I have way too many unknown unknowns. Theoretically I have restored/rebuilt about 60 vintage units. Mostly Marantz, Pioneer, Sansui, McIntosh and Yamaha. (Honestly about a 80% success rate, some units still not fully figured out yet.) For instance, I just rebuilt a Yamaha CR2020 (power supply and regulator board and both output modules) and can't seem to figure out why one module still shorts the unit on DBT. With the module disconnected it's fine. Probably a short on the module but I can't seem to find it.) Anyway...

I've been sitting on two each Phase Linear 400's and 1 ea. 700B. It's time to get to work and already I'm finding that my 1st PL400 is a bit more challenging than anticipated. I started simple and already I'm puzzled. But I want to be cautious.

Scenario
This 400 is super clean all original and in excellent condition with a beautiful wood case. Owner said it made a loud noise and he unplugged it and didn't use it again. First thing I did was test the original SANGAMD filter caps and one of them was completely shot. A detailed inspection of the driver board and internals shows no signs of burnt or discolored components. No arcing or loose wires. Very clean very original. Output transistor have not been checked yet.

So I got to work. Plan: Change caps and test.
1. Replaced both filter caps ( 2 ea. 100V 15,000 mf) and added the aluminum caps mounting plate
Since I'm already in here...
2. Installed a new light driver board from Watts (pic attached)
NOTE: When I attached the 5 wires to the light board (R, W, BL) and the 2 slightly bigger gauge Red wires (the instructions said the 2 Red wires were Gray, but mine are not.) So the only logical place for these Red wires was where the two Gray wires we slated to go. I could be wrong.

My plan was simply to replace caps, mod the lights and do a 1st power on test. Nothing else. Everything else in the unit is as the unit came, untouched.

Test equipment: Variac, DBT, a couple of DMM's

Connected DBT to Variac, plugged PL400 into DBT, connected DMM on the filter caps to monitor voltage and slowly brought up power to slow charge caps and see if lights worked ok.

When I bring up power on the Variac the VU meters immediately come right up with the increases in power and I really only went to 50 volts or so on the variac before it was clear the VU meters would peg and that didn't seem right to me?

The 5 wires to the light/meter board IMO can only go on as I have them. I triple checked them and you can see from the pictures they are in per the board markings and the instructions. The caps are definitely taking a charge so I don't suspect anything there.

If anyone has seen this before with a new light/meter driver board on a PL400 I would really appreciate your insight. I hesitate to go any further until I'm confident I'm not over-driving the board somehow or perhaps there is something I'm over-looking.

Looking forward to a new year with new restoration adventures!

Thanks
 

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Hexis22

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Dec 28, 2022
Messages
752
Location
Wisconsin
#2
Your picture of the LED light board wiring appears correct, assuming the other end of each wire is terminated as follows:
RED1 - Right Channel Speaker Output
WHT2 - Left Channel Speaker Output
BLK3 - Copper bus bar between PS Caps
GRY4 - Transformer Aux Winding
GRY5 - Transformer Aux Winding

Did the amp have any blown fuses?

Next step is to confirm state of output drivers. A shorted output driver will place power supply voltage on the speaker outputs and meters.
  • Follow the steps in the service manual for shorted outputs
  • And/or check speaker output offset voltage while using DBT and Variac
Never before observed a set of speakers and Marantz used as a PL400 repair work bench...
 

mslupczynski

New Around These Parts
Joined
Jun 4, 2023
Messages
10
#3
Your picture of the LED light board wiring appears correct, assuming the other end of each wire is terminated as follows:
RED1 - Right Channel Speaker Output
WHT2 - Left Channel Speaker Output
BLK3 - Copper bus bar between PS Caps
GRY4 - Transformer Aux Winding
GRY5 - Transformer Aux Winding

Did the amp have any blown fuses?

Next step is to confirm state of output drivers. A shorted output driver will place power supply voltage on the speaker outputs and meters.
  • Follow the steps in the service manual for shorted outputs
  • And/or check speaker output offset voltage while using DBT and Variac
Never before observed a set of speakers and Marantz used as a PL400 repair work bench...
LOL... Regarding the improvised workbench. It really is both stable and functional. I have big thick plastic cutting board protecting all the wood. As well as another piece of wood underneath the PL400 and it's all on wheels too!!! I have 3 other work bench's in my studio down in my basement and they are all full with other unit's I'm working on. What's funny to me is I do the same thing with everyone else's pic's... I look at their tools and test equipment and surrounds; it's amazing how we work! You have a keen eye.

I did slowly take the unit to full voltage and it looks and works beautifully!! I really appreciate your response, thank you! I sure do appreciate guys like you that have been down this road before.

Next step is to install the speaker protect hardware and test again.

Cheers and Happy New Year!
 

mslupczynski

New Around These Parts
Joined
Jun 4, 2023
Messages
10
#5
Just finished the relay install and planning on testing the unit tomorrow. It wasn't too bad of a mod but I'm pretty tired can't stay on my feet like I used to.

I did have a question about the test procedure below:
Screen Shot 2025-01-01 at 8.25.51 PM.png

I have what is required but am I to understand 40 VDC at the output measured with a meter or oscilliscope? Or does it matter?

So, i'm wondering how much amplitude of 1 KHZ signal is going to provide a 40 V output?

I'd love to hear from anyone who has done this test procedure after this relay install.
 

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laatsch55

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#6
Should take around 1.5 volts AC on the amplifier inputs to get 40 out...
 

laatsch55

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#7
If you get 40vdc on the output you have something seriously wrong...
 

laatsch55

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#11
Low frequencies can be interpreted as DC, dependent on the capacitor selections on the board. Don has tried to walk the line between nusiance triggering and essential protection behavior.
 

J!m

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#12
I agree with that decision.

You can't hear, and speakers (99% of them anyway) can't reproduce those frequencies, so snubbing at a "higher" frequency will catch a transient on the way to DC before it gets there.

Smart design.
 
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