OCD OCI

Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
433
Location
Peoples Republic of Vleuten
#1
Since semi-retiring and starting my own business from home it means I'm driving a lot less now. Great.
I record the mileage on the car every year or so and have calculated that I'm currently averaging less than 2k miles/year. 162.5m/month to be precies.
I'm actually relishing driving less as I consider it an absolute 'quality of life' benefit and I feel sorry for anyone who gets stuck in traffic jams on a daily commute. No way I'd ever go back to that bullshit!

In any case, it got me considering what my oil change interval should be now.
I used to do intermediate changes at 7500 miles where the manual for the zed calls for 15k miles with the theory that it would prolong the life of the engine exponentially. I used to do that with a previous BMW (with the M52TUB25 engine) and got 270k miles out of it until it was t-boned and written off. snif. So I'm convinced intermediate oil changes are nothing but beneficial.
The car's a 21 year old BMW Z4 (E85 / M54B30 engine) with 154100 miles on the clock.

I use a PELA oil pump to suck out the oil through the dipstick. It's the best way of extricating every last drop and before today I've pulled out 7L where the engine is specced for 6.5L with the max level showing on the dipstick.

Now, there are a multitude of theories as to how often the OCI should be when you're doing low mileages. The concensus is usually 1 year regardless of low mileage on motoring forums. Some say 2 years is fine. I'm coming up to 2 years since the last change and the oil still looks and smells fine with just less than 2k miles driven. Honey-coloured with no burnt smells etc. I shifted to 10W/40 from 5W/40 a couple of changes back. Driving style is mostly relaxed with a couple of 'spirited' bursts but nothing that goes near the redline in any gear and about 70-80% motorway (freeway). Trips never shorter than 1/2hour to ensure any condensation is evaporated off etc.
One of the first things I changed out when I first bought it was the crispy old PCV system as it was on the original and was very crispy. A new throttlebody was swapped in as the original failed in the first 500 miles of my ownership.
While I was fiddling around that area I cleaned and flushed the ICV, swapped in a new intake hose, checked the DISA, replaced the thermostat and water-pump and swapped in a new valve cover gasket.
The engine purrs like a kitten, even from cold, in the cold and idles evenly with no hunting or other weirdness. Still pulls like a train even though i think the VANOS solenoid s could benefit from a refresh.
I make sure to 'exercise' it and take it out for at least a half-hour spin every week or 2 weeks at the most if I don't have any need to drive anywhere in the meantime.

With all the above said, I'm toying with the idea of going with a 3yr OCI if I stick to my current annual mileage.
I don't subscribe to the notion that oil will turn into acid over time. You need to have the actual combustion process occurring for that to take place, so I think it's a nonsense to suggest in this context.

Thoughts?


From 2016. Looking clean enough. No mayo or gunk.

Photo 28-09-2016 14 12 10.jpg
Photo 28-09-2016 14 13 00.jpg

A new alternator had been installed previous to my ownership which is one less failure-anxiety, for now.
Photo 14-10-2016 15 32 16.jpg

Sparkers a bit grimy but all consistently-so. Threw some new ones in of course.

Photo 28-09-2016 12 40 43.jpg

All buttoned up ready to go. Haven't had to go back in there for anything major for about 8 years now. Fingers x'd.

Photo 28-09-2016 18 42 22.jpg
 
Last edited:

J!m

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
10,707
Location
Connecticut
Tagline
BOT
#2
You’re probably fine at two years if synthetic. Dino oil forms a lot of paraffin.

If you had a turbo I’d say 3-5k max.

Best thing to know is to have the oil tested.
 

Gepetto

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
13,944
Location
Sterling, MA
Tagline
Old 'Arn Enthusiast
#3
What model PELA do you use/recommend? I have been using one of the Chinese battery powered extractors. It is slow and very noisy, gets the job done. Is a PELA any faster? And does the vacuum pump element last? I stayed away from them because I envisioned the pump element crapping our quickly.
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
433
Location
Peoples Republic of Vleuten
#4
What model PELA do you use/recommend? I have been using one of the Chinese battery powered extractors. It is slow and very noisy, gets the job done. Is a PELA any faster? And does the vacuum pump element last? I stayed away from them because I envisioned the pump element crapping our quickly.
It's tip-top fella. I have the 6L manual one.
A few on the Z4 forum recommended it so I got one and I've never looked back. Easy to use and not at all messy (if you're careful).

As you can see it will get top-heavy if you fill it to the brim, so I usually draw 3L out, empty that into containers and then re-start to get the remaining 3.5-4L out.
You give it a few pumps and it will do it's job until everything's out of the sump. I usually walk away knowing I don't need to check on it after the first 3L draw. Takes about 30 minutes in total. I usually leave it for an hour while I do other stuff.

Can't recommend it enough and after 6 years and about 8/9 oil changes the seal is still fine, suction strong etc.
Get's poured into old containers using a funnel, then off to the recyclers. Easy.

IMG_20180414_150129.jpg IMG_20180414_150155.jpg IMG_20180414_161321.jpg
 
Last edited:

mr_rye89

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Aug 12, 2015
Messages
2,619
Location
Land of Entrapment
Tagline
Lost in the Ozone Again
#5
My Forester is turbo and runs hot (by design!) so I change oil at 3K. I like Z4s but I'm trying to resist the temptation to get another roadster(I had an NB2 MX-5), Ford/Ram 250/2500 drivers have the bloodlust for roadster drivers.
 

Elite-ist

Administrator, (and straight-up pimp stick!)
Staff member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
9,909
#6
The discrepancy of what the crankcase holds according to the manufacturer's spec and the 1/2 litre extra you got from pumping from the dipstick may be what's held in the oil filter, if the filter housing or filter doesn't have a functioning anti-drain back valve. Also, by not using the drain plug on the oil pan there may be residual fine metal caught on the magnetic drain plug you are not seeing.

Nando.
 

J!m

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
10,707
Location
Connecticut
Tagline
BOT
#7
These engines don’t drain the filter until you remove the filter cover which pulls a plug from the center of the filter. Or bolt in my case (S52).

New element comes with the cover o ring, copper washers for the bolt and drain plug and the o ring for the center bolt (or plug if you have a plastic integrated cap like my old 1.9l or the wife’s turbo 2.0).
 

Gepetto

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
13,944
Location
Sterling, MA
Tagline
Old 'Arn Enthusiast
#8
It's tip-top fella. I have the 6L manual one.
A few on the Z4 forum recommended it so I got one and I've never looked back. Easy to use and not at all messy (if you're careful).

As you can see it will get top-heavy if you fill it to the brim, so I usually draw 3L out then re-start to get the remaining 3.5-4L out.
You give it a few pumps and it will do it's job until everything's out of the sump. I usually walk away knowing I don't need to check on it after the first 3L draw. Takes about 30 minutes in total. I usually leave it for an hour while I do other stuff.

Can't recommend it enough and after 6 years and about 11/12 oil changes the seal is still fine, suction strong etc.
Get's poured into old containers using a funnel, then off to the recyclers. Easy.

View attachment 83617 View attachment 83618 View attachment 83619
Thanks Chris, very helpful. Looks like a well made unit, especially when compared to the POS Chinese electric pump I have been using. Based on your comments, it is not a fast process but one you can mostly leave unattended (within the capacity limits of the vacuum unit). Do you extract while hot or do you do it cold?
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
433
Location
Peoples Republic of Vleuten
#9
The discrepancy of what the crankcase holds according to the manufacturer's spec and the 1/2 litre extra you got from pumping from the dipstick may be what's held in the oil filter, if the filter housing or filter doesn't have a functioning anti-drain back valve. Also, by not using the drain plug on the oil pan there may be residual fine metal caught on the magnetic drain plug you are not seeing.

Nando.
Well, hopefully any shavings from the crank shells or such will stay attracted to the magnet. I'm not so concerned about that.
I replaced the sump gasket at the same time as the camcover gasket, inspected the sump pan after the last drain via the sump plug and the magnet was free of any particles. It didn't even feel as gritty as I'd expected.
I think it's led a sheltered life up to my ownership.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
433
Location
Peoples Republic of Vleuten
#10
Thanks Chris, very helpful. Looks like a well made unit, especially when compared to the POS Chinese electric pump I have been using. Based on your comments, it is not a fast process but one you can mostly leave unattended (within the capacity limits of the vacuum unit). Do you extract while hot or do you do it cold?
Yes, 1/2 hour drive minimum to get the oil up to temp and burn off any condensate as well as making the oil more viscous.
Then let stand for 10-15 minutes with engine off to let as much oil as possible drain down to the sump. The oil will still be warm and viscous even after well over an hour from the residual heat of the engine.
Remove oil filler cap and also loosen the filter cap so as to not create or fight against any sort of vaccuum when pulling the oil out via the pump.
The pump comes with a selection of long tube sections to fit any diameter dipstick and i use the one which seems to fit snug when it reaches the lower section of the dipstick. You can feel when the tube hits the bottom of the sump, then I pull it back 1cm to ensure a good flow. Towards the end of the draw you can push the tube as far as it will go to get every last drop out. Work's a treat.

Goes without saying (and no intention to sound patronising) to fit a new oil filter (I use Mann) and filter cap o-ring. Believe it or not I've known people who haven't changed the filter with an oil-change.
'It'll be reet.'
Yeah right, I mean.. reet.

AS J!m alludes to there is a second smaller o-ring for the bottom plug of the filter holder on some BMW's and including the M54 engine but I've only replaced this a few times as they aren't supplied with the filters and the concensus is that they rarely cause any issues unless they're really old and plasticised.
No harm in changing it everytime however. Some on the Z forums have never replaced it.

Always a good idea to inspect the filter for any shiny particles or other spurious-looking material under bright sunlight. If any is present then it's a good sign you may have some engine/oil-system wear-issues.
 
Last edited:
Top