THE Crossover Thread

[George S.]

At the top is the dual binding post I used on the speakers. I really like these, but they have a larger 4 mm threaded stud.
In the middle is a NOS Radio Shack 274-718 I bought long ago and recently opened. It has the 4-40 threaded stud.
At the bottom are two original PL binding posts displaying the issue I want to fix. All my amps have this issue even with the new binding post that came with the DCP's.
The Radio Shack dual post comes apart so the channel color can be changed. Drill the chassis holes out to 1/2", and the fiber washers won't be needed.
Going to do some more looking online.

 

[Gepetto]

At the top is the dual binding post I used on the speakers. I really like these, but they have a larger 4 mm threaded stud.
In the middle is a NOS Radio Shack 274-718 I bought long ago and recently opened. It has the 4-40 threaded stud.
At the bottom are two original PL binding posts displaying the issue I want to fix. All my amps have this issue even with the new binding post that came with the DCP's.
The Radio Shack dual post comes apart so the channel color can be changed. Drill the chassis holes out to 1/2", and the fiber washers won't be needed.
Going to do some more looking online.

You really should stay away from those cheap crap Chinese binding posts George. The original Johnson binding posts are really good quality items.

I had to repair an amp that used those Chinese binding posts where the installer had them shorted out to the chassis walls. You can see the char marks...

 

[George S.]

Yup, got it Joe. Been on the Pomona Electronics site browsing and getting some ideas.
If that amp owner had enlarged the chassis holes to 1/2" and checked assembly, hope there wasn't much damage.

 

[Louie3]

With all respect, incorrect installation of the binding posts have nothing to do with where they are made.

 

[George S.]

So, I looked closely at some old original binding posts from the amps.
I have two types.
The two on the left have thicker "barrels" and larger wire holes than the four on the right.
These two are recessed deeper and and fully accept a banana. The other four won't.
None of these have any markings to identify the manufacturer.
I found the Johnson manufactured ones Joe suggested. They do have the required 4-40 stud threading.
Tomorrow I'll pull the data sheets and get out the vernier. Hopefully they 're the solution.
Thanks again Joe!

 

[George S.]

Ordered the Johnson/Cinch binders. I'll update how they work out.

 

[Hexis22]

All the Johnson/Cinch jacks I have ordered from Mouser had the small shaft and short banana plug depth.

They do appear good build quality, but I just don't like the small surface area if using spade terminals and short depth for decrease in banana plug support.

 

[George S.]

Well crap, and they're not inexpensive!
Thanks Eric.
The search continues.
Perhaps the Keystone jacks.

 

[George S.]

The engineering drawings on the data sheets for the Johnson and Keystone jacks have same dimensions.
Guess they're sourcing from the same manufacturer.
Looking elsewhere.

 

[Gepetto]

The nature of a banana jack is such that connection is made by the (less than) first half of the overall tip length, by the spring-loaded, expanding bulge in the middle of the length. That occurs at less than 3/8" from the tip of the banana, after that the diameter reduces again. The bored hole depth of the Johnson/Cinch connectors is 3/8". Anything deeper than that gets no additional contact surface. In other words, the connector designers know what they are doing.

 

[Gepetto]

Well crap, and they're not inexpensive!
Thanks Eric.
The search continues.
Perhaps the Keystone jacks.

Sparkfun has them for 38 cents each...

 

[J!m]

Speakon connectors are the way to go.

 

[George S.]

Jim, I looked at those and I agree, but the DC Protect board gets mounted on the 4-40 threaded tip of the of the jacks.
Ordered some other jacks to try. Could easily tap and thread the standoffs and make most any jack work.

 

[Bob Boyer]

Anyone using their miniDSP as a preamp, not just as a bi or tri-amp controller? It just struck me that my system is now simple enough I could plug the turntable into the analog inputs, my SACD player into the coax digital input, and the computer into the USB port and a 2x4 miniDSP would run a bi-amp system.

Just curious what people are hearing when listening through the miniDSP beyond the benefits of room correction and driver alignment.

 

[George S.]

Bob, my legacy 4X10HD has a master volume control that's enabled or disabled in the software. My understanding is the optional remote can control the volume once it's enabled.
Mine is not enabled, nor do I have the remote. I did enable and test it using the multifunction knob on the front, and it worked very well, but I have no real experience using it as such.
I know someone else is using it as a preamp, but can't remember who.

 

[George S.]

Not sure a 2X4HD has that functionality built in. You'll have to check.

 

[J!m]

Anyone using their miniDSP as a preamp, not just as a bi or tri-amp controller? It just struck me that my system is now simple enough I could plug the turntable into the analog inputs, my SACD player into the coax digital input, and the computer into the USB port and a 2x4 miniDSP would run a bi-amp system.

Just curious what people are hearing when listening through the miniDSP beyond the benefits of room correction and driver alignment.

You need the RIAA correction for vinyl.

 

[mr_rye89]

I'm using that Dayton DSP as a preamp/crossover/EQ, but have a matrix switch to route audio to it from many devices. Should you go to a DSP you'll still need the Pyxi.

You can get a wired remote for the Dayton, otherwise you have to control it with your phone/PC

 

[Bob Boyer]

You need the RIAA correction for vinyl.

I'd definitely run through the Pyxi for that...

 

[Bob Boyer]

Not sure a 2X4HD has that functionality built in. You'll have to check.

Well, they claim it does...