Voice of the People Survey!

Should White Oak Audio Design offer a largely SMT version of its PL14-20G1 Control Board?

  • Yes, I really like the new Surface Mount Technology

    Votes: 4 21.1%
  • No, I prefer to keep it old school

    Votes: 13 68.4%
  • Yes, but I have some comments about this (place comments in the thread please)

    Votes: 2 10.5%

  • Total voters
    19
Thanks all for your votes and comments. Although other votes may come in, I don't think it will tip the scales the other way. It provides me a solid reading on the sentiments about user preferences.

Do not read into this that the G1 board is going away. It isn't. It may get superseded by a successor with even more possible technical, reliability or quality improvements.

Do not read into this that there are component shortages that I am facing on the G1 board. Even in a tight market, I am not facing any presently. That may change in the future as the market ebbs and flows, but for the moment, things are OK.

Do not read into this that the bean counters have moved in and want to cost reduce the G1. Moving to SMT would likely not reduce costs at all but may have improved convenience for the user/assembler base. The vote count says that is not a driving issue.

Thanks again.


Joe, if you see any Bean Counters around, kick em in the balls and send em packin............
 
Well, you do a really excellent job roofing. Are you going to strip the old window frames or go with replacements? I had some outside rot in the last wood frames I refinished. Rotary wire wheeled all the rot out, drove in some small wood screws part way, Bondo, then primer and paint. Holding up great.
 
Well, you do a really excellent job roofing. Are you going to strip the old window frames or go with replacements? I had some outside rot in the last wood frames I refinished. Rotary wire wheeled all the rot out, drove in some small wood screws part way, Bondo, then primer and paint. Holding up great.
Hi George
I do complete replacement down to the original rough opening. I use Anderson 400 series windows. I trim out under sill with copper flashing and install Azek trim surrounding each window. I re-trim the interior with wider Victorian style trim
 
What is the repair history for failures in the differential/ current mirror/pre-driver stages? I read between the lines that some customers put thru hole parts in the wrong positions, but given a proper build, how often do you see failures in the portions which may become SMD? I kinda see the issue as the old fashioned idea of using eyelets on circuit boards for parts which tend to require frequent service. SMD repair requires hot air tools. You really do not want to change parts with a soldering iron.
 
Hi George
I do complete replacement down to the original rough opening. I use Anderson 400 series windows. I trim out under sill with copper flashing and install Azek trim surrounding each window. I re-trim the interior with wider Victorian style trim

Very nice! It does get cold up there.
 
Very nice! It does get cold up there.
Yeah it does. I spray in the "Good Stuff" foam around the frames. Makes a big difference over the insulation that they had stuffed in there with the original construction. It is Good Stuff
 
Good Stuff?? We have "Great Stuff" here....we use gobs of that stuff too....
 
Yep, a product that does exactly what it says it will...
 
Maybe it is that stuff Lee. Whatever it is, it works well.
I assume that is the minimal-expanding stuff ? Works great around the windows ...can be trimmed as well when cured. Just don't get that stuff on your fingers or it is nasty stuff. Gloves.
 
I assume that is the minimal-expanding stuff ? Works great around the windows ...can be trimmed as well when cured. Just don't get that stuff on your fingers or it is nasty stuff. Gloves.
That is it Al. Made for low expansion.
 
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