phase linear parts
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WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
mlucitt
Veteran and General Yakker
Mine is completely missing... If'n you have an extra one kickin' around, layin' in your parts bin. or holding up a leg on your couch.
WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
I rebuild them with a new rear switch. NOT CHEAP
Just did one tonight. Now my couch is crooked
Just did one tonight. Now my couch is crooked
WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
I rebuild them with a new rear switch. NOT CHEAP
Just did one tonight. Now my couch is crooked. I have 3 left I'm going to rebuild. I bought some NOS complete range switches a while back. I used the last one on a customers amp. Now I have the left over switches to rebuild with new ass ends.
mlucitt
Veteran and General Yakker
Doing it the right way...
WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
mlucitt
Veteran and General Yakker
What are the ratings of those rebuilt switches? Are they good for 8 Amps?
WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
Mark, if you have 8 amps going to the meter, you got issues. Go look at the 700B skizmo........ 8 amps? it would blow the light board to bits.
More like a couple of hundred Milliamps (Probably WAY less).
More like a couple of hundred Milliamps (Probably WAY less).
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WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
mlucitt
Veteran and General Yakker
Oh, I'm thinking about the power switches, not the meter range sensitivity switches... nevermind.
But, then again, what is the rating of the POWER switches you are using?
But, then again, what is the rating of the POWER switches you are using?
WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
That would depend on what amp..... I use NOS switches so look at your switch. I increase the rating when I rebuild the 700B cam operated switches since there is a heftier switch available. With the push-Button power switches, We use both gangs and add a snubber so either way, we are better off then what the factory did. There are MANY switches (probably 4 or 5) that the 700B/Series II could have came with. Cam operated, Half Moon (with round or flatted shaft), The TV styles etc.......
mlucitt
Veteran and General Yakker
The half moon switch (round shaft) I have reads 3A 250V and I am thinking that is a bit light for a WOPL 700. I agree that the cam operated switches are the best because you can swap in a more robust microswitch. I did that on another 700B.
Pencil in a Special Request Chit for me for a meter sensitivity selection switch, unless someone needs it worse than I do. Right now I have two bare wires and I poke a rusty nail through the faceplate, if it touches both wires I get the more sensitive meter reading on the Aerosmith 700B.
Pencil in a Special Request Chit for me for a meter sensitivity selection switch, unless someone needs it worse than I do. Right now I have two bare wires and I poke a rusty nail through the faceplate, if it touches both wires I get the more sensitive meter reading on the Aerosmith 700B.
WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
The half moon switch is kinda lite but they were used nonetheless. 6 amps @125 (or 3 amps at 250) would be just a tad light but they do work, and work better with the big snubber. Luckily the amps don't draw that much (they do draw for a millisecond while the bulk caps charge, and the snubber cap helps ease that), and the majority of the current draw is while jamming. Just keep your volume low on power up and power down. should last a good long time. Plus, the switches are under rated as most everything is. I'm willing to bet they will handle a good deal more than their rated flow.
I'll build you a switch next week. I haven't heard from the OP so......... Looks like he joined just long enough to post that he needed a couple parts. I saw his 400 relays on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Phase-Line...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
WOPL Sniffer
Veteran and General Yakker
Oh, and if you need a 16 amp Cam operated switch to beef up your amp, I can build you one of those too. I believe I have the parts here including the cam mechanism. I usually require a turn in of your original cam system but I may have a core unit.
1000uA full scale
oldphaser
Chief Journeyman
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- Sep 8, 2012
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Phase Linear had (2) silk-screened versions of their 700B front panels.
The 1st version had the meter range switch lettering arranged -20dB on the left side and 0dB on the right side.
The 2nd version had the meter range switch (reversed) -0dB on the left side and -20dB on the right side.
(see photos) NOTE: These photos were of some 700B amplifiers I sold many years ago and I installed solid aluminum knobs taken from 4000 series 1 pre-amplifiers on them. Hence these knobs also have dots on them that the early 700's and 700B's did not have.
The 1st version is much rarer and used a wafer switch such that the switch could actually be wired for either version of the front panel.
Unfortunately, I could not locate the spare wafer switch that I have in my collection to provide you with a photo.
The 2nd version of front panels utilized a Clarostat CM40705 20 series cam operated switch. It was rated at 1A 250V/ 3A 125V.
The first generation of the Clarostat meter range switches had a round shaft that was used with the solid aluminum knobs (with set-screws) Phase Linear used up to about November 1974. Phase Linear then changed the wording on their front panels from "Seven Hundred Watts R.M.S." to "Laboratory Standard Amplifier". It was around this time that Phase Linear began using a plastic insert knob designed to push onto a D-shaft. Therefore there was a second generation Clarostat meter range switch used for this application. (See photos)
NOTE: I do not remember being able to wire the Clarostat switches for use on the 1st generation of front panels.
NOTE: This same Clarostat meter range switch was also used on Phase Linear 5000 tuners as a power switch and carried the same Phase Linear part number.
The Phase Linear part number for the Clartostat switch was 129-0019.
Unfortunately, I have no records at this time as to who the manufacturer or part number (as well as the Phase Linear part number) for the wafer style switch.
Lee has provided me with some wafer style switches that will work with the 1st version front panels. I have none for sale. However, Lee or Perry may be a source for these parts.
Ed
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J!m
Veteran and General Yakker
This got me thinking...
I have a small lathe here which I have nearly completely free access to (and I'm the guy who keeps it working correctly).
Is there any interest in replacement knobs of solid aluminum (or other metals or plastics)?
I have a small lathe here which I have nearly completely free access to (and I'm the guy who keeps it working correctly).
Is there any interest in replacement knobs of solid aluminum (or other metals or plastics)?
mine is type 2 with 0db on left. How do you reach Lee or Perry? I'm new to this site and saw a response from wpol that says they rebuild the back end. My amp is stellar performer, and I am trying to keep it oem.