Slide controls hard to move after contact cleaning

62vauxhall

62vauxhall

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I got hold of an old, long idle amp and EQ recently. The EQ has 20 slide controls, the amp has 3 and most were noisy. Instead of using DeOxit, I used MG Chemicals Contact Cleaner with lubricant. It did make the controls noise free but the lubrication component was ineffective. In fact they were harder to move afterwards.

The reason for not using DeOxit was that some time ago I used it on a different old EQ with 40 slides and those slides also got very stiff, some to near immovability. I've encountered a couple of retired techs who've used MG cleaner exclusively for years and I have no complaint about the product for that purpose but the "lubricant" aspect seems a bit of a misnomer.

I know there's such a thing as fader lube and I believe some is marketed under the Deoxit brand. There are some instrument and PA dealers nearby who I called to ask if they carried it. Oddly, neither did. In fact one parts/service person said he used nothing but straight DeOxit and had never experienced controls being hard to move after applying it.

I have a silicone spray Gunk automotive product and am tempted to use it but hesitant to try. The label states it has a high dielectric component and I am unclear as to if that means it impedes or enhances conductivity.

I am sure I can find a can of fader lube for sale somewhere but can't really afford the $25 per can it's supposed to cost.

Does anyone have a cheap and cheerful remedy for making slide controls slide more easily?
 
I used the Deoxit F5 Fader and it works great. Used it on all my Kenwood Super Elevens. Same price as the regular D5 or real close.
 
I have a silicone spray Gunk automotive product and am tempted to use it but hesitant to try. The label states it has a high dielectric component and I am unclear as to if that means it impedes or enhances conductivity.

It enhances conductivity.

If you don't want to spend the money for the fader lube which I don't blame you at that price.
Try a little Wd40 on a couple. I have used it for years on sliders with good results after cleaning.
It does evaporate and leaves a thin film which you can always clean back off if needed with
the contact cleaner.
I don't like silicon products as they are difficult to remove and never get them around anything
you might paint.
 
After some phoning, I found a couple of shops that carry DeOxit Fader Lube. And I stand corrected - it's $28 a can not $25.

I also learned it's available as either 5% or 100% strengths. Those I spoke to were of little help determining which one was more appropriate and I didn't 't fare much better on the Caig site because both are supposed to clean and lubricate.

The company or the brand name must have been sold because it's no longer Caig it's Hosa. Anyway, it's nice little racket they've got going if ideally one needs several of their products to do a job.
 
It's kinda like hair care Gary. shampoo THEN conditioner, clean THEN lubricate. When you can find something that does all 3 at one time(clean, lubricate, seal) I'm all in....
 
So no Pert Plus for electronics?

It's just that DeOxit branded stuff is so friggin' expensive.

EDIT: Any input on the 5% vs 100%?
 
I start with the D-100, then flush with D-5, then the F5,....
 
The De-Oxit stash......
 

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JustMike said:

Try a little Wd40 on a couple. I have used it for years on sliders with good results after cleaning.
It does evaporate and leaves a thin film which you can always clean back off if needed with
the contact cleaner.
Click to expand...

WD40 attracts dust. Put a bit on your workbench and watch it. The ONLY use for it is on rusty bolts. I spent months redoing a job because we used wd40 and it attracted dust and undid what we were trying to accomplish.
 
JustMike said:
I have a silicone spray Gunk automotive product and am tempted to use it but hesitant to try. The label states it has a high dielectric component and I am unclear as to if that means it impedes or enhances conductivity.
Click to expand...

A dielectric material (dielectric for short) is an electrical insulator that can be polarized by an applied electric field.
 
fitz43 said:
WD40 attracts dust. Put a bit on your workbench and watch it. The ONLY use for it is on rusty bolts. I spent months redoing a job because we used wd40 and it attracted dust and undid what we were trying to accomplish.
Click to expand...

Wasn't a cheep alternative to Deoxit asked?
I"m not talking about spraying the stuff, just a very small amount with a q-tip to the sliders . Not for pots.
What do you think is in fader lube? There has to be a certain amount of some type of a petroleum or vegetable based oil. That is why
they won't tell you wants in Deoxit. You would just laugh and make it up yourself. Way overpriced.

If you have that much dust in your sound room that you fear a little WD40 is going to gunk up your gear,
Maybe a good air filter system is needed. And I sure wouldn't be playing any vinyl in there.:wink:
I guess it wasn't a cheerful answer. Geeze
 
laatsch55 said:
I start with the D-100, then flush with D-5, then the F5,....
Click to expand...

What I've got is D5 which seems to be the 5% solution. So I guess I should have been using D100 for better cleaning effect?

I'll skip a charity event on Sunday that wants $25 to participate and pop for a can of Fader Lube instead. Maybe that will improve the slide's action and they're still clean from the Nutrol spray I've already applied. If' not, I'll use the DeOxit D5 then re-apply the Fader Lube. I can only afford one can of something so D100 will have to wait.
 
Last edited:
jUST TRYING TO SHOW how much shit a fella has to keep around to get the job done...
 
JustMike said:
What do you think is in fader lube? There has to be a certain amount of some type of a petroleum or vegetable based oil. That is why
they won't tell you wants in Deoxit. You would just laugh and make it up yourself. Way overpriced.
Click to expand...
You can easily find the ingredients in Deoxit and most any commercially sold chemical by looking for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet). :study: Its required by law.
Its 75% Petroleum naphtha and 20% Isobutane propane. The rest is inert ingredients.
 
Must be the iso that does the trick. At least that explains why it sizzles when it hits the surface...
 
laatsch55 said:
Must be the iso that does the trick. At least that explains why it sizzles when it hits the surface...
Click to expand...

Yes Sir. It would be safe to assume the iso is used as the carrier. :thumbright:
 
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