The Siver Shadow 400 Returns!!!

ksrigg said:
How close are copper faceplates, and what might one of those cost?
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I have been pricing copper and machining in my neck of the woods and to do one faceplate I was looking at over $200. Opted to just polish the back of my faceplate instead at this time and will revisit the copper option maybe a little later:

Before:



After:
 
Nick Danger said:
I have been pricing copper and machining in my neck of the woods and to do one faceplate I was looking at over $200. Opted to just polish the back of my faceplate instead at this time and will revisit the copper option maybe a little later:

Before:



After:
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Yes, copper is expensive and hard to machine (it galls). To get decent machining results you need to get C145 (Tellurium Copper) which is even more expensive than C110 (plain copper). You cannot laser it without a very specialized laser and even those don't do a great job on copper.

We commonly use C145 for bus bars and it is not inexpensive.

Then you come to the part of how to finish it. You end up with black oxide which defeats the purpose or bare which means it will turn dull brown or lacquer which will eventually chip off and then turn brown. Not many good finish options.

Those reasons are why aluminum plus anodize or SS are much more popular choices for decorative pieces.
 
Well, the little bugger started going into protection.....checked a few things, then my hand grazed the DC protect IC. I could wiggle the IC with my finger and make it trip the relay. Cold solder joint....DAYAM....everytime I say something like that....


Resoldered the IC and beat it severely about the head and shoulders and all is well now. Listening to Patricia Barber try to swallow her mic as we speak.....she sounds really good at it too. Guys the Rev E board pretty much does away with any sibilance......if it's not on the recording it aint in the speaks....
 
Gepetto said:
Then you come to the part of how to finish it. You end up with black oxide which defeats the purpose or bare which means it will turn dull brown or lacquer which will eventually chip off and then turn brown. Not many good finish options.
Those reasons are why aluminum plus anodize or SS are much more popular choices for decorative pieces.
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Electroplate? How about a hard electroplated Nickel finish?
 
laatsch55 said:
Well, the little bugger started going into protection.....checked a few things, then my hand grazed the DC protect IC. I could wiggle the IC with my finger and make it trip the relay. Cold solder joint....DAYAM....everytime I say something like that....


Resoldered the IC and beat it severely about the head and shoulders and all is well now. Listening to Patricia Barber try to swallow her mic as we speak.....she sounds really good at it too. Guys the Rev E board pretty much does away with any sibilance......if it's not on the recording it aint in the speaks....
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Have you seen Linda Blair hanging around Lee?? :-)
 
Well....no.....I think it's the Pig...you know how he gets....after all I just made him an organ donor just after making him SOTA....and he didn't take it well.........


I am shaking it down pretty hard....yeah G, I was clipping the little bugger.....
 

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The SS400 survived.....it's going back to Stephen in the morning.....
 
The Pig just gave away his left nut :evil4:

Good to hear she survived the torture test Lee :blob8:
 
ksrigg said:
What about brass or bronze, then?
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The more stable finish would be aluminum with a bronze or brass color anodize on it. Bronze or brass will also tarnish without a lacquer clear coat on them. Once that chips, you will have tarnish spots.

Old Eico equipment had brass faceplates that tarnished badly after a couple of years.
 
I wish I was still in the cymbal business. I'd have my Turkish friend make a faceplate or three...or six, out of the B20 Bronze he makes the cymbals from. They do tarnish, but there are some good polishes for cymbals. I don't know why I like the idea of copper so much for the faceplate. I guess it goes back to the Fisher amps and receivers. The earlier ones would tarnish heavily if scratched or chipped, but the later ones must have been anodized to have a brass appearance. Maybe a bright stainless steel in a mirror finish would be the ticket?
 
ksrigg said:
I wish I was still in the cymbal business. I'd have my Turkish friend make a faceplate or three...or six, out of the B20 Bronze he makes the cymbals from. They do tarnish, but there are some good polishes for cymbals. I don't know why I like the idea of copper so much for the faceplate. I guess it goes back to the Fisher amps and receivers. The earlier ones would tarnish heavily if scratched or chipped, but the later ones must have been anodized to have a brass appearance. Maybe a bright stainless steel in a mirror finish would be the ticket?
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How much do you want to spend Sutton? Anything is possible...
 
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