Here's an older picture of my amp.
[attachment=1:1nv4x8vq]top view.jpg[/attachment:1nv4x8vq]
I've had this for a couple years now and I rarely use it now. I removed the transformer (approximately 30lbs) and sent it in to be vacuum dipped. They do exhibit some mechanical hum but I found after all that, the sound was coming from the big relay. I built a DC supply for the relay which got rid of the relay hum entirely.
However, the DC supply is connected directly to the AC, without a transformer. This is a potential death trap for the unsuspecting, so I'll likely remove it if I ever sell this amp.
[attachment=0:1nv4x8vq]DC supply 200c.jpg[/attachment:1nv4x8vq]
It's only bolted in so there wont be any soldering involved, no problem.
This amp is a real beast. 200wpc @ 8ohm/400@4 & 1000@ 1.5. Bandwith DC-140khz
It's also an amp that is not for the faint of heart. It's direct coupled design can be a real danger to speakers as it will multiply any DC leakage by a factor of 30. To get around this, it is advised to connect the preamp without the speakers, then turn it on. This is what the 4 indicator lights will show you- they will light at the presence of DC. If there is an issue, then there is a pair of capacitor coupled inputs just in case. (or get your preamp checked). If you yank the preamp cables while everything is on (not that you ever should!) you will blow your speakers.
Also, when you first turn this on, the big open relay will flash blue from the electrical surge, which is normal. But it is also recommended, from the manufacturer, to leave this on all the time, use a 20a dedicated line, and connect it directly to the wall (probably not a lot of good power products back in '85). I do notice that if I use this amp, it's best to turn it on first, only because it reeks havoc on other gear at turn on. The current draw causes not just typical light dim, it brown-outs the other equipment.
There is very limited protection on this, the concept being purer signal paths. There are a couple fuses and one heat sensor that would disconnect the relay.
Also, the caps burp when you do shut it down, which scares the crap out of me. But the worst thing about these amps, is that replacement boards are no longer available, and there tends to be hot spots on these boards from a single device that likely should have had it's own daugter board.
Sound? Well it's likely the most focused and powerful amp I've owned. Not forgiving in the slightest, which is why I usually don't use it. Here's a review:
http://www.stereophile.com/solidpoweram ... index.html
At 70lbs, I get tired of moving this thing around, not sure what I'm going to do with it, but I wouldn't want to sell it to someone who doesn't fully understand it. Sounds great, but it's not up to current engineering and safety standards imho.
[attachment=1:1nv4x8vq]top view.jpg[/attachment:1nv4x8vq]
I've had this for a couple years now and I rarely use it now. I removed the transformer (approximately 30lbs) and sent it in to be vacuum dipped. They do exhibit some mechanical hum but I found after all that, the sound was coming from the big relay. I built a DC supply for the relay which got rid of the relay hum entirely.
However, the DC supply is connected directly to the AC, without a transformer. This is a potential death trap for the unsuspecting, so I'll likely remove it if I ever sell this amp.
[attachment=0:1nv4x8vq]DC supply 200c.jpg[/attachment:1nv4x8vq]
It's only bolted in so there wont be any soldering involved, no problem.
This amp is a real beast. 200wpc @ 8ohm/400@4 & 1000@ 1.5. Bandwith DC-140khz
It's also an amp that is not for the faint of heart. It's direct coupled design can be a real danger to speakers as it will multiply any DC leakage by a factor of 30. To get around this, it is advised to connect the preamp without the speakers, then turn it on. This is what the 4 indicator lights will show you- they will light at the presence of DC. If there is an issue, then there is a pair of capacitor coupled inputs just in case. (or get your preamp checked). If you yank the preamp cables while everything is on (not that you ever should!) you will blow your speakers.
Also, when you first turn this on, the big open relay will flash blue from the electrical surge, which is normal. But it is also recommended, from the manufacturer, to leave this on all the time, use a 20a dedicated line, and connect it directly to the wall (probably not a lot of good power products back in '85). I do notice that if I use this amp, it's best to turn it on first, only because it reeks havoc on other gear at turn on. The current draw causes not just typical light dim, it brown-outs the other equipment.
There is very limited protection on this, the concept being purer signal paths. There are a couple fuses and one heat sensor that would disconnect the relay.
Also, the caps burp when you do shut it down, which scares the crap out of me. But the worst thing about these amps, is that replacement boards are no longer available, and there tends to be hot spots on these boards from a single device that likely should have had it's own daugter board.
Sound? Well it's likely the most focused and powerful amp I've owned. Not forgiving in the slightest, which is why I usually don't use it. Here's a review:
http://www.stereophile.com/solidpoweram ... index.html
At 70lbs, I get tired of moving this thing around, not sure what I'm going to do with it, but I wouldn't want to sell it to someone who doesn't fully understand it. Sounds great, but it's not up to current engineering and safety standards imho.
