One more Screw! (and not what YOU think)...

orange

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#1
The only thing that keeps me from freeing the volume/balance control board on my first SX-D7000 is one screw on the loudness switch.

Since this is part of the board I COULD just THRASH the poor switch getting the screw off but I have no Dremel tool.

I can move on to the 1630 for Rex now without losing my way but WHAT TO DO? I have the front panel freed enough to take the board out in it's entirety, swapping the wire wraps as I go.
 

orange

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#2
Well, NO I can't do any such thing as I have the selector panel freed from the lamps and can see now. The screw is toast but how do I free it? The switch is cabled to a point behind it and it cannot be broken. I'll go take pictures as nobody here has probably ever made this repair.
 

mlucitt

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#4
I would use a smallish left-hand drill bit in my variable speed 1/4" or 3/8" drill. I have some if you want me to send them to you. But your drill has to be reversible to use the LH bits.

Mark
 

orange

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#5
I have a a rechargable hand driver that might have more guts than the Black and Decker dad gave me but I am also a KLUTZ and absolutely need this switch intact as I don't understand how the wire ladder connects yet. In the past I have tried chilling and hammering while turning on parts but not this small or critical.

I still don't know if I missed up something on the quadcore I had to rewire when I fired itm up last night and now have to have a friend with more skills than I have anymore look at it.
 

Lazarus Short

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#6
Shucks, if you lived in C-bad, I could drop by with the Dremel and have that screw head ground down in a few minutes. Can you buy a Dremel grinding bit and get it clamped down in a standard chuck?
 

orange

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#7
I really don't know.
 

orange

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#8
I've got drill bits, alright, just where are they at is all.

THIS is the real issue however:

NUT.jpg

Look closely at where the nut is at in comparison to the two electrolytic cans that are tied together (the Roberts amp I'm trying to remove)...

I still have to get the nut free...
 

Lazarus Short

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#9
[I hope this Q makes sense.]

Is it

the nut on the left, which looks square

the clamp-tightening screw in the middle, or

the hex nut on the right?
 

orange

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#10
It's directly below the solder joint (or on the right).
 

Lazarus Short

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#11
Needle-nose pliers?

A ratcheting box-end wrench?

A cheap, short 1/4-inch drive socket of the right size, soldered/welded to a steel nail (for leverage)?
 

orange

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#12
Actually, I don't have a ratchet driver that small and the main things that would fit there are the pliers (but they won't stay) and a small monkey wrench (which does).

I DID see something on TV that is said to drill out a good surface and then you flip the bit and it supposedly will take out a headless screw and even a 4 inch deck screw...I have to look on TV again as I forgot the exact web address and it has 4 bits for slotted, Phillips, etc. for only $19.95 and shipping.

I wanted to ask for an opinion on the tool.
 

Lazarus Short

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#13
I haven't heard of the tool you mention, and don't watch TV. Would a small "Easy-Out" not do the same thing? Me, I would find a small, cheap hex socket, drill a hole thru it, and insert a nail for leverage. If too long, I would even grind down the end where the ratchet fits. Yeah, I've been wondering if you ever got that nut dealt with...
 

orange

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#15
Well, my keyless chuck sucks...

The bit I bought kept getting loose and slipping in and then broke and the bolt on the Akai is recessed so using the cutters I got will be tricky and I've still got the caps in the way.

I have less than two bucks until I get money for a bike part I sold, hopefully this week.

Renting a Dremel tool costs more than I will make. I'll go back to trying to find the bits I have.
 

laatsch55

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#16
I have one here for you Steve. Sorry it isn't getting shipped on your schedule. It will be out of here sometime this week so you can stop with the hints...
 

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BubbaH

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#17
Hey Steven. If used properly those easy out tools work fairly well. I have used those things to pull big stripped tapcons out of concrete.

Quality drill bits do make a difference though, dont break as easy, and cut a fair bit better. Hex shank bits might help with your chuck problem too.
 

orange

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#19
Not trying to be a pain anyway and thank you Lee. I'm just not getting many answers back lately from a few places period and I'm probably spending a lot of money guessing stuff. I spent $12 on what I have andjust lost about $4. I've been outside working on figuring out what's coming and going to maybe clear one of the sheds for the neighbors to use eventually and finding some things to give a couple people.

Had to bring it in to warm it up before going over it again.

PS Also didn't see your post until now.
 
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