DeOxit

[Gepetto]

DeOxit makes a number of contact cleaner products. Which version do users here like the best?

My old PL4000 has some crusty controls in it that are no longer reliable, especially the source selector switch is showing a lot of the black silver tarnish on it.

The stuff is not cheap so do not want to purchase the wrong formulation. What does the audience say

 

[laatsch55]

D100 first in the 1.9oz version, followed by the D5 flush in the 5 oz can. For pots and faders , the Faderlube, and for sealing the contacts, Deoxit Gold.

 

[NavLinear]

We've used D5 for years for cleaning electrical contacts of water recovered targets (drones) with good results.

For home use I have a small container of D100 and use it sparingly but after I apply it I'll flush it with some DeoxIT D5 - just as Lee suggested. To recondition the contacts/pot I use the DeoxIT G5 Gold and for lubrication the DeoxIT F5 Fader works well.

To keep costs down one suggestion would be to use the D5 as a cleaning solvent and the G5 to condition the surfaces.

 

[Zach C.]

The stuff is not cheap so do not want to purchase the wrong formulation. What does the audience say

If you just want to buy one, and everything you will use it on is metal contacts, I would recommend the D100 in the small spray can.

I use the D-series thus:

D5 Spray- Severely corroded connectors for it's flushing action. Not much Deoxit in it- mostly solvent. Any plastic safe solvent works just about as well here- brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, electric motor parts cleaner, etc. followed up by D100 and a plastic or metal brush, depending...

D100 Spray- pots, switches, relay contacts- general purposes.

D100 Needle dispenser- female terminals

D100 Brush dispenser- male terminals.

Faderlube- anywhere where I'm not sure what the material inside is (might be carbon/ plastic?), and pots that I would like to stay lubricated/ protected, though I think D100 protects as well. Can't say for sure.

I've never been compelled to try the Gold Series.

I, for one, would really, really like to know what it is. The MSDS is no help, and I don't know any chemists. The brush bottle says it's non-toxic, and experience tells me that it has little taste. Totally inoffensive to my tongue- I was really curious- might be soybean oil for all I know.

I've been meaning to e-mail CRC to see if they can recommend a "comparable product."

...

 

[Gepetto]

If you just want to buy one, and everything you will use it on is metal contacts, I would recommend the D100 in the small spray can.

I use the D-series thus:

D5 Spray- Severely corroded connectors for it's flushing action. Not much Deoxit in it- mostly solvent. Any plastic safe solvent works just about as well here- brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, electric motor parts cleaner, etc. followed up by D100 and a plastic or metal brush, depending...

D100 Spray- pots, switches, relay contacts- general purposes.

D100 Needle dispenser- female terminals

D100 Brush dispenser- male terminals.

Faderlube- anywhere where I'm not sure what the material inside is (might be carbon/ plastic?), and pots that I would like to stay lubricated/ protected, though I think D100 protects as well. Can't say for sure.

I've never been compelled to try the Gold Series.

I, for one, would really, really like to know what it is. The MSDS is no help, and I don't know any chemists. The brush bottle says it's non-toxic, and experience tells me that it has little taste. Totally inoffensive to my tongue- I was really curious- might be soybean oil for all I know.

I've been meaning to e-mail CRC to see if they can recommend a "comparable product."

...

Thanks for the feedback guys...

I normally just replace stuff but with the 4000 most of it is unobtanium so refurb is in order.

 

[speakerman1]

Joe I use contact cleaner then Deoxit with D5. Use to use red on my RCA connections. LPS makes stuff. We only used LPS products on aircraft.

 

[premiumplus]

I did some research and learned that the "commercial stuff" is 5% oleic acid (a fatty acid that occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats and oils), and 95% naptha. I've been using the "commercial stuff" for years and it's expensive but it is the best.
Anyway, I bought a quart of oleic acid online and got it shipped to me for around $15, and I use naptha all the time for a cleaner so I had it on hand. I mixed up a batch and started tests on old pots and switches and it's performed beautifully so far. It's only been a month or so, but results look promising.
They say that the oleic acid cleans away corrosion and grime at the molecular level. My wife had an old brass oil burning lamp that was REALLY skanked up and I dipped it into the mix I had made up and left it for a day. The solution turned black and the brass lamp burner parts came out looking great.
As far as residue, it looks like there is a light film of the oleic acid which remains. I haven't been entirely scientific in my tests, but I did leave some out and the naptha evaporates over time and the 5% oleic acid seems not to evaporate. It may over time but I don't know.
In writing this it occurs to me to take some of the "commercial stuff" and spray a bit into a bottle cap or small cup, and let it sit to see what remains after everything else evaporates...
At any rate, this mix seems to work very well on pots and contacts, and I haven't noticed any downside yet.
And you can make gallons of it inexpensively.

 

[laatsch55]

Dave, maybe that's why they recommend the D5 for flush, to remove the residue..and don't forget to add the FD&C Red #5....

 

[Zach C.]

Dave, Thanks for your input on this!

That's kinda what I was thinking, since as I said, it tastes like vegetable oil.

We use a great deal of this at work, so I've been looking for a good alternative with the same properties. The cost adds up quickly.

I will be trying this. May I ask where you bought yours?

Thanks.

 

[laatsch55]

So I guess somebody has reverse engineered this... a gas chromatograph would have been handy too...

 

[Zach C.]

Never mind...it's everywhere if you just look a little harder.

 

[laatsch55]

Not THAT MUCH of a trade secret eh??

 

[premiumplus]

Dave, Thanks for your input on this!

That's kinda what I was thinking, since as I said, it tastes like vegetable oil.

We use a great deal of this at work, so I've been looking for a good alternative with the same properties. The cost adds up quickly.

I will be trying this. May I ask where you bought yours?

Thanks.

I got mine at ChemicalStore.com and i bought a quart. It was $10 or $20 shipped. Well worth it, and it does smell like vegetable oil. Works great.
Lee, where can I get the dye?

 

[laatsch55]

Van Waters and Rogers....

 

[NavLinear]

I got mine at ChemicalStore.com and i bought a quart. It was $10 or $20 shipped. Well worth it, and it does smell like vegetable oil. Works great.
Lee, where can I get the dye?

So Dave - you want to dye your vegetable oil lube red? Does this mean a redhead is best? Just wondering.

 

[premiumplus]

So Dave - you want to dye your vegetable oil lube red? Does this mean a redhead is best? Just wondering.

Redheads rock, but blondes are best. And whatever your sweetie at the stove is cooking with will do just fine!