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Joe on the 10 ohm resistor, you populate it in the D4 (L &R) location?

Started to build up the WOA board. Was looking for my lead bending jigs and lo and behold the parts are already bent. Yay:toothy8::toothy8:! AND each group of parts has their silkscreen legend printed on the label. Nice! Easy to double check as you go. Nice kit!!! The stock configuration of...

I have a PL400 that I'm in the process of WOPL'ing. Once I'm done I'd like to be able to turn it off and on. I found this power strip that has a remote turn on. You can use a switched outlet on a pre-amp as the control voltage. Seems like it would work well...

The funny thing is that they are $0.26 for 1-9 but 0.076 for 10-99?? If I bought the 4 I need I'd pay $1.04 but 10 pcs is $0.76. I bought 10...

2.7 Ohm resistors on the way... $0.76 for 10 resistors $4.99 for shipping. I wish I needed something else.

Dag nabbit... Another Mouser Order

I just finished building the DC Protect board. I doubled checked my work and have a question. Should R1 and R2 be 2.7 ohm or 2.7K ohm resistors? On the BOM the Mouser pn is 2.7K ohm but the description is 2.7 ohm.

You'd probably look for a MJ21196G. I believe the G means RoHS compliant.

You probably meant $63 (12 x $5.25) for a 96 and a silpad from WOA. I might just bit the bullet and make sure there's no whammies. Throw another log on the fire! o_O

I'll probably press my luck with the PL909 and hope for no whammies.

I was looking at the release notes for the WOA PL14 REV E. They seem to say that one must switch to MJ21196 to maintain a SOA. I found that SOA means "safe operating area"?? Will it be OK to keep the PL909 if you're not playing it at concert levels? I understand they are 45 year old transistors.

No sticker just a J in sharpie on one of the big caps.

I'll be installing the WOA control board. I really want this to be a solid daily driver. Based what @oldphaser said, the sn is from the 4th month of production. So maybe it was one of the first 500 made. I have no idea how many per month they were making so maybe just the first 1000. Not sure...

I was able to get p/n's from the pots. Each channel has (2) X201R254B or 250K Ohm 1/5 W 20% 1 Turn and (1) X201R502B 5K Ohm 1/4W 20% 1 Turn. Neither of these are on the schematic for the PL400C in the service manual which, as I understand it, is the board I have. I think this circuit board...

When I bought this I was hoping to get it upgraded to the bare minimums until I got the WOA board. I'm afraid to try and adjust the offset. I'm sure those 45 year old open frame pots are not very trust worthy. I've read about possible catastrophic meltdowns trying to adjust offset using ancient...

I'm glad there was no Kaboom when I hit the power.

The service manual, I have, says up to +/-75mV is OK. R8 is supposed to remedy this. I'm not completely sure which of the three pots per channel is R8.

On the DBT : +Rail = 66 Volts -Rail = - 66 Volts On full line voltage (120vac) +Rail = 79.8 -Rail = - 79.6 Offset (measure speaker terminals)? Left = -138mV Right = +10mV Measured in the garage @ about 45°F. I only waited about 5 minutes for it to stabilize. It was still floating around when...

The copper bus was factory. I intend to recap the main board but I wanted to take baby steps. I have everything I need to recap including the C6 mod. It bothers me that this main board doesn't seem to be represented in the 400 service manual from hifiengine. The manual is supposed to cover...

New caps and bridge. DBT goes bright and then.... Dim:cheers:. A couple of pics Waiting for the protect board before running with speakers.