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Hang in their Ray, I would pull all the outputs, fix the boards, then use the usual build "power up process" (single row at a time).

Oh, welcome to Phoenix! post pictures, everyone likes pictures!

I decided to keep the switch and capacitors in my 700B WOPL. Not sure they are needed, but at least I have the option now. Others just leave the switch to fill the hole in the chassis.

The light up top just blinks, there is a heater inside the glass dome to heat the nuts.

I picked this up a loong time ago. Silver King Hot nut machine.

rocus, that needs to go in your signature line

If the tuner is working, do not touch it! Not many techs are capable of re-aligning the tuner.

I have been thinking of bi or tri amping as well. I have a WOPL 1000, a stockish PL 400, and the internal amp in my SX-950. My speakers are Ohm model Is, they are capable of bi-amping with a selector switch and two sets of binding posts per speaker. However they currently sound fantastic with...

If you don't need the old IC, can you just cut all the leads and clean up the tailings with solder wick?

Thanks for the support, it looks like a ton of work to put it back together, so I will most likely refinish the plinth, thinking about maple veneer, and a stain back to the original shade. Then put it back together. I figure worst case I can just part it out and be pretty close money wise to...

FedEx delivered the turntable yesturday, wow do I have my work cut out for me. At this poimt not sure if I should put it back together and see if it works, or re-finish the plinth and put it together. Either way it looks like the if the two motors are good I shoudl be OK, parts are very rare...

Thanks, I will have many questions along he way.

I purchased a PL 700B from ebay a while back, the amp had been stored in a shed and needed everything. The amp got a full white oak treatment including a new chassis and face plate. It sits proudly in my main system. Now I purchased a PL-570 that someone took apart and will be shipped in...

Thanks Lee, I should go back and edit my post "I have only seen one 700B wood cabinet in all my life" :grin:

On a 700B cosmetics is about 90% of the game. If the meters are good, and the switches operate you are just about all the way there. The wood case has to be worth an easy $100, not sure I ever saw one for a 700B. So if the amp is in excellent cosmetic condition you can't loose.

Ray, at this point I would recommend that you "connect" with one tech on this board, Lee, Joe, Don, or someone else. Then do exactly as they say, nothing more. Go back and forth with ONE person and they will get the amp fixed, I do not recommend changing parts in a shotgun approach. I wish I...

Sounds like your DCP is working fine, I wouldn't remove it. I am sure you will figure it out, once you get the 8 ohm dummy load see if you can duplicate the shutdown at will. Run the amp at different frequencies from the tone generator from your PC, and also at different levels. Stick with it...

Ha, I did the same thing with my build, AGC was fine in the workshop, once amp was moved to the main system it would blow the fuse on power up. Lee gave me the same advice, a Slow Blow fixed things.

I have been using these, the spring type fell out to easily. https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Locking-Generation-Connector/dp/B00BBDD3B8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_dp_d_i9A6xbBT1TPBB_tt

Thanks for all of the replies, I will most likely go with a 530, the prices seems to be going up by the minuet on the pioneer tables.