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If I'm understanding your instructions, do you mean that the two additional holes at the bottom of the board are supposed to be connected? Of course, there are the connections from the fuse holders, but there are also two empty holes next to them. Is that what should be powering the board?

I've been staring at this thing all day. Now I need to take a break and go to the store. After the store, I think I'll sit down and stare at it until at least midnight (it 3:46 here). Thanks for all the help.

Okay, I checked the caps for orientation and, unless I'm really a dim bulb, which is quite possible, they seem to be correct. I photographed the caps close-up, and I think you can see the polarity symbols on the boards. But, as can be seen, the two outside posts have only the rectifier wire on...

My positives are only connected to the rectifier, nowhere else.

I'll double-check, but I'm doubtful. I've already gone over everything four times, while comparing my boards to pictures of populated boards from White Oak.

This is a fairly good picture of the left board, obviously; although, with the ground lead in place. If I missed something on the boards, I can't find it.

This is what I'm referring to. Of course, the copper ground bar is reinstalled. But, if you can see from the photo, the only leads coming off of the positive sides are those between the caps and the rectifier. I'm dead in the water until I figure out what I'm doing wrong.

The grounds are in place, but there's nothing going anywhere, other than the rectifier, from the positive posts. The leads are in place from the fuse holders to the boards. And, obviously, there's power to the thermal cutoff.

All four test good. However, this is probably a REALLY stupid question, but what is the wiring of the + sides of the bulk capacitors supposed to look like? Mine have just one wire each, both of which go to the rectifier. Shouldn't they be connected to the boards somehow?

Well, I'm stumped. Up to 60 volts without any problems, unless no voltage to the boards is an issue. I have power from the fuse holder, power to the caps, about 50 volts, power to the rectifier, but nothing to the boards at any of the check points. I stared at it for almost two hours, then...

Everything is now together, taped off, and hooked up to my dim-bulb tester. Unfortunately, the fuses didn't come today, but I already expected that. They'll be here tomorrow, and then I will begin the ceremony and ritual. I just hoping it doesn't turn into a fire dance. I will definitely go...

Yeah, fortunately, I'll have two dim bulbs in the circuit. I have the mechanism with the bulb and a Variac, and then there's me. So two for the price of one.

Okay, I spent quite a few hours correcting a whole bunch of stuff today. I soldered the socket back in, no problem. Since I had the boards out, I trimmed and cleaned up the backside of both. Afterward, I put a straight edge on them to make sure nothing was going to be a problem. As recommended...

Yeah, I'm going out to work on it for a couple hours today. And, yes, I'll solder it in, and also inspect all the other sockets for good solder jobs. I have to do something about making the boards fit, so I'm going to de-solder them and get them into a circuit board holder to make it easier to...

Okay — I'll get at it tomorrow, when I'm fresh and patient.

Okay, well, I've figured the whole mess out. The socket pulled loose, even with only finger-tight screws because the board wasn't perfectly flat against the spacers. The reason, and now that I've checked, it's the same on the other board, is that neither board is right. This is an old, four sink...

I checked all of them for continuity between each other and everything's fine. I just pushed the socket in with my finger, and all of everything on the board and the sockets checks out. I just need to re-adhere the torn socket back to the board and everything should be fine. It's just a matter...

I guess I should consult Joe? I guess I'll leave it for today. No sense rushing. But thanks for letting me know that there is a conductivity function to the socket. But it appears that the conductivity is generated by the body of the socket contacting the metal ring within the mount. Where the...

Also, could you be more specific? Your instructions as to which transistors to install for the first bring-up confused me a bit. Is it one horizontal row, or one vertical row? Thanks.

Okay, now I got me a problem. I was just tightening the transistor screws, just to make sure they were snug, and I heard a pop when I just touched the last one. I knew what it was, but not why. So I pulled the board loose to take a look. As the photos show, one of the screw sockets pulled away...