Recent content by Ronnie_B

I just timed it. After turning power off at the front control panel the LED stays bright for about 20 seconds, starts dimming, and goes dark after about 30 seconds total. I previously overhauled this preamp by replacing transistors, caps, diodes, etc. and circuit behavior was same (as expected).

If his 4000 stays on continuously with the power switch off, then yes Q1 is probably shorted. In my case Q1 turns off after a cap (C6?) discharges which takes about 1 minute after the front control panel switch is turned off. The LED power indicator will stay on for about 1 minute then fade off.

If I turn the 4000 off with the front control panel switch, the LED wll stay lit for about 1 minute, and music continues for about 20 seconds as the DC bleeds down. Killing the power source is immediate, so I now use a power strip switch to totally kill power to the amp/ preamp. May help the...

I have a 4000 that does the same. The power switch breaks the transformer secondary, and looks like some caps may provide DC for to forward bias the transistor for a little while. The relay only controls the switched power outlets...

Working on a PL 4000 preamp. I bypassed the RIAA preamp card with 2 jumpers which converts the PHONO 1 and 2 inputs into LINE inputs, and now use the turntable line outputs (Audio Technica LP-7) instead of the RIAA cartridge preamp. Looking at the schematic, I also noticed that the TAPE 2...

My early 700b has the -20 db setting on the left. My later 700 WOPL from Glen has the newer style faceplate with -20 db on the right. In either case the -20 db position requires closed contacts to short out/bypass the 22k resistor which then results in higher meter current at a given output...

If you still have rust to remove use Evapo Rust. It dissolves rust without etching the metal underneath. I've used it on reloading dies, etc that were rusted and all brown rust disappears overnight. It is sold in liquid and gel form, gel would probably work well using Q-tips to apply on problem...

I just revisited this page. I want to apologize to Perry for getting abrasive in my reply to him. It was unwarranted and I am sorry for my replies in this thread.

Looks nice- It would be interesting to make one 700B style as an option...

Some good info here- Tape performance is affected by bias, and he discusses some recommendations. https://reeltoreelwarehouse.com/learn/what-reel-to-reel-tape-should-i-choose/

Reel to Reel Warehouse has a lot of good info regarding the various types of tape construction/formulation, etc. Preemptive legal disclaimer- Not my company, nor do I have any interest financially in this company. All information on the website is property of Reel to Reel Warehouse and is not...

Ok B Thank you Jim. I have some reels of Maxell UD that were recorded on the Akai X360 and also some 10.5 35-180b new old stock. Nice to listen to stuff I recorded decades ago...So far the UD sounds great, will try the 35-180b soon. I will probably buy the ATR Master grade stuff to try for...

Leaving? Thanks!

Sounds good, You too. Please stop commenting in my threads if you are going to keep trolling me.

The advice you posted was thinly veiled criticism followed by "have fun".