HELP! Rescuing Dad's old PL400 S2 (pics)

lightfall

Journeyman
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Messages
164
Tagline
---
#1
Hi all, I am new here but I have been lurking trying to get a general handle on how this amp works; I am trying to repair my father's series 2 phase linear 200 preamp & 400 amp. It has been in a shed for approximately 30 years. He thinks he may have had it on too loud and it just "stopped working". I found a resistor taped to the case of the amp, he says he recalls looking inside the case and seeing a similar cracked resistor but he never got around to fixing it. Well, here I am, trying to repair it. I took some photos: the only thing I noticed inside was a few cracked resistors on the right side of the unit. I looked for burned or other cracked things but did not see anything. You will have to forgive me, I am still learning some terms, but the round yellow chalky things on the PCB control board also appear to possibly have been cracked (see photos).

I did not attempt to power on the unit yet. I want to get it in running order again, I do not want to "upgrade it" yet since I want to hear what it sounded like to my Dad first, and want to do this in the easiest most cost effective way possible. I see references to a White Oaks replacement PCB control board, but I am hoping I don't need something that expensive.

Also, I keep seeing the term "bad outputs" and "replace the outputs" but I cannot seem to infer what exactly an output is/does and what it looks like. I didn't want to power on because I am scared of a capacitor or something killing me. I do not have experience with stereos, but I do have extensive experience assembling computers, and I have made my own custom motorcycle wiring harnesses, but this is new territory for me. I replaced tubes in my other Luxman and Audive equipment as well, and also repaired my old turntables so I do like to tinker if I know what I am tackling.

IMG_2047.jpg IMG_2050.jpg IMG_2063.jpg IMG_2061.jpg IMG_2060.jpg IMG_2058.jpg IMG_2055.jpg IMG_2048.jpg

Also, I downloaded the service manuals and user manuals. I do not have a variac, dim bulb tester, or oscilloscope or anything of that nature. I do have a basic multimeter. I have soldered things though, but need a new soldering iron if I will need to solder. I do not know if the preamp works, it appears very clean, but a squirrel chewed off the end of the power cord and I will need to create a new power cord terminal as such as part of this as well to test it. The tone toggle switch is stuck in the in/flat position on the preamp.

Do you think I should just buy some of those resistors that appear cracked and solder new ones on? Where do I buy them? Are the cracked yellow things bad too? Is there anything else I really need to do whilst in there? How much is all of this going to cost me roughly? Sorry these questions probably sound very amateur but the advice seems to generally indicate that you need specific parts from specific suppliers or it won't work right and I don't want to screw this up!
 
Last edited:

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#2
First of all ---Welcome to Phoenix!! If you've been lurking you know what we're about. We fix shit and have fun.

The brown cracked things are emitter resistors. They have taken a hit and probably became that way from a shorted output. Those things screwed to the back of tha amp are outputs. The 400 is a really poor choice for a first fix it project, but it's where I started and diudn't know much more than you when I did it.

Do you have a Digital multi meter?
 

lightfall

Journeyman
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Messages
164
Tagline
---
#3
Thanks, I like restoring things, and I have had my eye on this unit for 20 years and my Dad finally broke down and let me take a crack at restoring it! I have a couple cheap multimeters like the ones from harbor freight, you know the cheap red ones with the dial...It has a little LCD screen, but I am not sure that makes it digital. It is what I used to check for conductivity and resistance on my motorcycle builds.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

So what exactly is an output and how do I replace it? Is it the 16 brown rectangles are an output, or all the stuff also attached to them? I keep trying to search for "amp output" and other such terms and it is obviously coming up with the wrong results, so sorry for this stupid question.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#4
The can looking thing on the outside that those brown SOCKETS are holding. Check the fuses first. See if they are open and if they are , if they went nuclear or just melted the filament.
 

lightfall

Journeyman
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Messages
164
Tagline
---
#5
OK, so I need to pull off those outputs and replace the original rubber spacers with the MICA type insulators and heat sink compound. I wonder how this thing originally toasted, because I don't want to replace parts to have it blow up again!

The line fuse looked normal, white? The + fuse was filament intact and the - supply fused had the filament broken, nothing appeared catastrophic. 20141104_234025.jpg
 
Last edited:

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#6
Don't disturb the outputs yet....a lot of sleuthing to do yet and we need them in place...
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#7
And a pic of the outputs would be nice to see if this is a quasi comp or full comp...
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#9
This can be a long arduous process. Study the service manual and get familiar with the output testing procedure.
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#11
Standard quasi comp output stage, except for the GE transistors. Never seen those on a PL. How did the fuses look?
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#12
Ok, I saw your updated post. What is the rating on the fuses and is the middle one open?
 

lightfall

Journeyman
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Messages
164
Tagline
---
#13
The middle fuse was open. The markings on the white fuse say BUSS ABC 6 250 VOLT and the other two smaller fuses say BUSS SFE 14
 

lightfall

Journeyman
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Messages
164
Tagline
---
#17
I suppose I should ask what the best value/source is for an audio signal generator, I have what I think is a suitable multimeter, I will need a high impedence scope, and a 250 watt 8 ohm load resistor?

I guess I will need to also buy some of those insulators and thermal compound, as well as the emitter resistors that are cracked.

Did the fuses or pictures add any insight into what happened or what I may have to do? I think I can understand the testing procedure, if I had the equipment I could probably trot through the process. I am still worried about discharging a capacitor and killing myself though.

And what/where are the four electrolytic capacitors on the driver board that I hear should be replaced? Should I just replace all of the outputs, would that be expensive or overkill? LF 351 FET OP AMP - is that a part that also needs to be replaced? When I figure out how to check the output transistors I have to make sure they are all the same on the same amp channel, which ones are on the same amp channel? Is it the vertical grouping, or is it horizontal? Either way it appears as if mine are mixed.
 
Last edited:

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#18
First , having a blown 14 amp fuse where there should be a 5 amp fuse is a bad, bad thing. For now all you need is a good ohm meter with a diode check mode. Don't start removing components yet. Let's see if we can find out what went wrong. You can test the outputs with just your meter. I've gotta hit the sack, gotta be up at 5 but I'll be on tomorrow off and on during the day. Get those outputs tested and we'll go from there...
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#19
It's really confusing when you go back and rewrite a previous post, please don't do that or we'll be spending a lot of time rereading posts to see if I missed an update...
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,756
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#20
The outputs are in the right place and are grouped vertically. You have 2 renegade outputs in the GE's but let's not worry about upgrading or wholesale changing out of components yet....
 
Top