Resurrected a Customized WOPL 400

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#1
So, a friend gave me his old, four fin 400 that hadn't worked in years. Additionally, cosmetically, the thing was a mess. Most of the silkscreening was worn off. The faceplate was badly scratched all over. The chassis was scratched and dented. Plus, it didn't power up in any way. So I took it down to the bones and plan on giving it new White Oak life. It's already been quite a project. But now I'm starting to put it back together and get it ready for the big audition.

WOAPL Buildout — 2.jpg WOAPL Buildout — 1.jpg
 
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#2
So, a friend gave me his old, four fin 400 that hadn't worked in years. Additionally, cosmetically, the thing was a mess. Most of the silkscreening was worn off. The faceplate was badly scratched all over. The chassis was scratched and dented. Plus, it didn't power up in any way. So I took it down to the bones and plan on giving it new White Oak life. It's already been quite a project. But now I'm starting to put it back together and get it ready for the big audition.

View attachment 26841 View attachment 26842
Did you check the transformer for proper operation before assembly? Looks good so far!

Did you re-do the silk screen on the faceplate? I was thinking about adding a white oak WOPL or what ever to the 400 I just completed but have no experience with having silkscreen done. The idea will be to have it match the plastic insert on the 700b that is it's companion amp that will be built soon.




From the other thread in reference to the output devices, you can get those from Joe or Mouser.

Post lots of pics, the more experience builders will be able to pick out errors in the pictures rather than you finding them at start up... or just provide suggestions.
In my own experience I would encourage you to read a couple build threads and all the info given by Joe via email before starting.
 
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#3
Did you check the transformer for proper operation before assembly? Looks good so far!

Did you re-do the silk screen on the faceplate? I was thinking about adding a white oak WOPL or what ever to the 400 I just completed but have no experience with having silkscreen done. The idea will be to have it match the plastic insert on the 700b that is it's companion amp that will be built soon.




From the other thread in reference to the output devices, you can get those from Joe or Mouser.

Post lots of pics, the more experience builders will be able to pick out errors in the pictures rather than you finding them at start up... or just provide suggestions.
In my own experience I would encourage you to read a couple build threads and all the info given by Joe via email before starting.
Actually, I'm getting some parts from Nav, who seems more than prepared and stocked with what I need. Also, you can get silkscreening done by companies that do such things, you just need to Google around your area. However, I'm not interested in the old silkscreening. I've actually begun painting my two faceplates (I have this 400 and a rebuilt Series II I bought new in 1980).

WOAPL Buildout — 62.jpg

I'm shooting them with black acrylic lacquer. I'll eventually sand the painted plates with 1500 grit sandpaper and rub the surface out so that it's like glass. Also, my friend pin-stripes and letters Hot Rods and I'm having him logo my faceplates. I grew up next door to the Black Hawk, a very famous, old (long gone) Jazz club here in San Francisco. Google it. A lot of great Jazz albums were recorded live there — including an amazing Miles Davis record. We used to climb up on the roof and sneak through a broken door (we broke it), and watch the shows from a crawl space you could access from there. We laid on our bellies and watched from just above the stage. We saw everybody there. That club was a big part of my musical education, in fact, a big part of my life back then.

WOAPL Buildout — 9.jpg

So, just for fun, the logo I've made up is the Black Hawk graphics seen on this record, minus the marquee. Goofy, I know, but it means a lot to me, so my buddy's going to paint that logo directly on the faceplates. I thought about anodizing the aluminum, but decided on the Hot Rod look instead. Engraving is also very affordable. You could reproduce the original screenprinting with engraving, then use paint to color the letters and lines. It's easy to do. You can also easily make your own 700 plastic insert and have that engraved as well.
And, no, I didn't check the transformer, so I guess we'll see. How do you check a transformer. I could still easily hook up some jumpers.
 

laatsch55

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#4
If the transformer was bad you'd smell it....the dead, burnt, motor smell....
 
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#5
So the next problem was that these very early 400s came with smoked lenses on the meters. With the old fuse-type lights, you couldn't see anything through the plastic. Plus, one of the lenses was cracked. I tried to find replacement lenses, or even replacement meters, but no luck. So I put the lenses in the mill and shaved off the part of the frame that holds the viewing area.

WOAPL Buildout — 12.jpg WOAPL Buildout — 33.jpg WOAPL Buildout — 22.jpg

Also, the top strip of the frame had to be cut away. It was deep black and the lights have to shine through that area to illuminate the meter. Anyway, I cut pieces of glass for new lenses and the top frame strip, then used epoxy to put everything together. With the faceplate on, there's no indication of any alteration, other than the lenses now having glass faces, instead of plastic. I painted the bezels candy apple red, now the horribly scratched faceplate gets painted mirror finish black. The only other problem is the crappy fuse-type bulbs. They give off very little light. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to replace that set-up? I've seen fuse-type LED bulbs, but I've never used one.

WOAPL Buildout — 23.jpg WOAPL Buildout — 5.jpg WOAPL Buildout — 24.jpg

So, not an elegant solution, but a solution, nonetheless.
 

orange

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#8
You should be able to use standard lamps and a strip for a diffuser, the benefits being that you won't need to do anything with a special circuit board and you can use a tinted plastic sheet in "any colour you like"...
 
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#9
Sorry, I didn't make the situation clear. My amp is one of the very early 400s that uses a system completely different from the one they switched to later. The meters are lit from above and through the lens. In fact, the socket strips were glued to the faceplate — weird. I already talked with Joe about this, and he said his set-up definitely will not work on my model. They are different brand meters, and Joe's website clearly states that the kit he has will not work with models of my vintage. These old fuse-type bulbs are junk. I bought new bulbs and even the new ones are very dim.
 
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Sorry, I didn't make the situation clear. My amp is one of the very early 400s that uses a system completely different from the one they switched to later. The meters are lit from above and through the lens. In fact, the socket strips were glued to the faceplate — weird. I already talked with Joe about this, and he said his set-up definitely will not work on my model. They are different brand meters, and Joe's website clearly states that the kit he has will not work with models of my vintage. These old fuse-type bulbs are junk. I bought new bulbs and even the new ones are very dim.
Of course, my first thought was to simply mount Joe's board above the meters, in the same way the vintage meters were mounted. Seems like it would work, if I could find an easy way to mount it. But Joe said he didn't know and wouldn't guarantee anything with this model. I didn't want to buy the kit as an experiment and then find out I couldn't use it. However, if you guys have suggestions along those lines, I'd love to be able to use Joe's board.
 
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#11
Sorry, I didn't make the situation clear. My amp is one of the very early 400s that uses a system completely different from the one they switched to later. The meters are lit from above and through the lens. In fact, the socket strips were glued to the faceplate — weird. I already talked with Joe about this, and he said his set-up definitely will not work on my model. They are different brand meters, and Joe's website clearly states that the kit he has will not work with models of my vintage. These old fuse-type bulbs are junk. I bought new bulbs and even the new ones are very dim.
fuse style LED are very much available, even custom sizes, colors and voltages. I saw a pic of a PL5000 from a member here who had LEDs in it (5000's use fuse style lamps) and he gave me the ebay link to the seller :
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.T RC0.H0.TRS5&_nkw=FISHER+MCINTOSH+PIONEER+OTHERS+6M M+OD+SLIM+LED+FUSE+LAMP&_sacat=0

just message the seller and tell him what size in diameter, size in length, led color and operating voltage of the circuit. he will of course tell you what he needs but it was a painless process and I think he only charged me for 10 when I needed 13...
 
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#12
fuse style LED are very much available, even custom sizes, colors and voltages. I saw a pic of a PL5000 from a member here who had LEDs in it (5000's use fuse style lamps) and he gave me the ebay link to the seller :
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...EER+OTHERS+6MM+OD+SLIM+LED+FUSE+LAMP&_sacat=0

just message the seller and tell him what size in diameter, size in length, led color and operating voltage of the circuit. he will of course tell you what he needs but it was a painless process and I think he only charged me for 10 when I needed 13...
Yeah, I've seen this guy before. I'm wondering how bright the LEDs would be at the voltage delivered to the sockets. Any idea?
 

NavLinear

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#13
fuse style LED are very much available, even custom sizes, colors and voltages. I saw a pic of a PL5000 from a member here who had LEDs in it (5000's use fuse style lamps) and he gave me the ebay link to the seller :
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...EER+OTHERS+6MM+OD+SLIM+LED+FUSE+LAMP&_sacat=0

just message the seller and tell him what size in diameter, size in length, led color and operating voltage of the circuit. he will of course tell you what he needs but it was a painless process and I think he only charged me for 10 when I needed 13...
I was looking for these but had forgotten who the seller was. The link I posted was to stimulate ideas and I'm glad you posted the link. Quacoaudio has come up in a number of my searches and he has a high satisfaction rating.

Yeah, I've seen this guy before. I'm wondering how bright the LEDs would be at the voltage delivered to the sockets. Any idea?
Ask him. He has four voltage levels specified for these.
 
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#16
Bias Transistors

Okay, I'm ready to accept the award for dumbest question of the day, but I'm finished with my backplane boards, other than installing the bias transistors. The question is, which set of holes am I supposed to use to mount the components? There are two sets of holes. I've gone over the literature and can't seem to figure this out. Additionally, I'm not clear as to how my four fin chassis factors into the mounting of the bias transistors. Joe's instructions say that the mounting hole is a bit different on the early models. But I'm unclear how to make provisions for the mounting differences as I install the transistors in their clips.
 

NavLinear

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#17
As you've noticed the PL 400 Backplane Board has two mounting hole sets for the bias transistor. The set you connect to is dependent on the bias transistor that you have. Since transistors are fabricated differently the ECB orientation can change and Joe allowed for that on the both the 400 and 700 boards. The silkscreen indicates that the hole set closet to the transistor body is for a 3403 (2N3403) transistor and the one furthest away is for the 5088 (2N5088).
 

NavLinear

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#18
The four finned PL 400 amps did not have good configuration management - hence the mechanical deltas you're seeing. The controller boards for the four finned amps are held in place differently that the eight finned units so...you'll need to get the standoffs properly located/aligned.
 
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#19
Dennis,

Thanks for the input, but I'm still not certain how I'm supposed to mount the transistors. From the photo I'm including, you can compare the two sides and see that the mounting holes on the boards don't line up anywhere near the original mounting area. You can see that the chassis hole, which I stuck a black socket head cap screw into for easy identification, is significantly up and to the left, compared to the hole on the board. So I'm guessing the thing to do is solder wires into the board and run them to the transistor which would be mounted in it's original spot. Except that, I don't think there's enough space behind the board to have the clip mounted underneath. Of course, drilling new holes in the chassis would be the easiest solution. I just want to make certain that whatever solution I settle on doesn't have some unintended consequences. Scott


WOAPL Buildout — 63.jpg
 
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