RainDog's 700B resuscitation

RainDog911

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#1
Hey all. I thought I'd post up my journey with a 700B that I pulled out of my father's storage unit after he passed. It was literally going to be recycled but I saw it, recognized the name, liked the build quality and decided to bring it home with me to see what I can do with it. I guess in life it is better to be lucky than good, as I've subsequently found out. I now can't wait to hear how this transistor beast stacks up to my vacuum tube ideals. I keep a very open mind in this regard because I've heard great and terrible out of both camps.

After reading up on various audio forums, I eventually learned of this site, WO driver board, LED board and WA DCP board. I decided it was worth throwing a few hundies at it since my cost basis was nil and to see what it can become, and what I can learn in the process. I thought it wise to put in the DCP board before testing - safety was my intention. I then built the WO kit and installed it.

It didn't work. So, I opened an email dialogue with Joe and no surprise to you guys, his support goes beyond the call of duty. He caught a missing resistor that I though only applied to the full comp build and the biasing transistor term blocks go on the back side of the board. I had some wild voltages in inappropriate places. Joe then sent me his single point grounding schematic and I got busy again.

So, now I think I'm getting closer. When I do the WO biasing procedure, I can't get below 0.500 V, where I should be between 0.300 V and 0.400 V. The WA DCP board checks out, including the low frequency test. Thinking I was good to run a test tone through speakers, when I powered it up with speakers attached, a really unpleasant noise came out. It sounds like an alarm clock buzzer and about as loud. It comes out of both channels with equal volume and tone. The volume control does not increase or decrease the noise. If I put a 1kHz tone into it and turn up the input voltage, it eventually starts to drown out the buzzing but not entirely.

Any ideas on where I can start troubleshooting?

A little more background. I did things in the wrong order. I didn't test out the unit before upgrading - bad on me. I did test all the NEC output transistors and they tested good (new MJ21196 and RCA410 drivers on the way from Joe though). I tested the biasing transistors and they tested good. I double checked the wiring of the WO PL14_20 board, and I think it is solid but nothing is above verifying.

About my skills - I have a Fluke scopemeter, freq generator, Variac, dim bulb tester, variable AC power supply, meter, Peak transistor tester and Peak capacitor tester. My knowledge and skills are definitely amateur but I listen, follow direction pretty well and have a desire to learn. And a now burning desire to get this amp right.

Any thoughts (other than sell it to me for $200 and cut your losses, fool)

-Steve
 

RainDog911

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#3
DC Offset - Right -107mV, Left -87mV. Yes, those are negative numbers when + lead is on positive term and - lead is on grounded terminal.
 

laatsch55

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#4
Those aren't deal killers but definately not right. Did he amp work before the board swapout. Does the DCP have the big white resistors on it??
 

RainDog911

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#6
Amp not tested before swap. Poor form by the OP.

NEC 2SD555 for all outputs and RCA66430 C 7620 for the drivers. Outputs tested OK. New transistors coming from Joe later this week.

Pics forthcoming.
 

laatsch55

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#7
Motorboating is usually a sign of outputs partially shorting on the backwall. Did you use new Mica and grease?

Bad or mis-installed electro's can do this too.
 
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laatsch55

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#9
The biasing transitors can test good and have no gain throwing a high bias. Order some 2N5088's and punch out those old 3403's and put the 55's in it's place. Better resolution and range....
 

RainDog911

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#10
Some pictures attached. Disclaimer - my workmanship is better than what is shown. As soon as it is working properly, all wires are shortened to a proper length, re-terminated and ty-wrapped.

Resistors on DCP - Large blue bodied, 6 ohm, look to be 5W or so?

I measured from chassis to the body of each output transistor and driver. I read from 1.1 to .8 ohms. Does this indicate a partial short?

Battery crapped out before I could photograph the last tower and right side of the PL14_20.

P1060830.jpg P1060829.jpg P1060828.jpg P1060827.jpg P1060826.jpg P1060825.jpg P1060824.jpg P1060823.jpg
 
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RainDog911

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#11
The biasing transitors can test good and have no gain throwing a high bias. Order some 2N5088's and punch out those old 3403's and put the 55's in it's place. Better resolution and range....
Sorry Lee, noob clarification. The original biasing transistors are 3403 and I need two 2n5088 to replace them. I don't follow "put the 55's in it's place".
 

jbeckva

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#12
On the PL14 driver board, left channel, Q3L and Q4L... Which way are the flat sides facing, and do you know if the part numbers start with MPS or TIS? I almost want to say they are facing with the flat sides "up", when the two above them are also facing "up"... also seems that they are not facing the same way as Q3R and Q4R (right channel). (I need glasses sometimes, so I could be seeing things.. :smokin:).
 

laatsch55

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#13
Sorry Lee, noob clarification. The original biasing transistors are 3403 and I need two 2n5088 to replace them. I don't follow "put the 55's in it's place".

Sorry, the 2N5088's need to go in place of the 2N3403's, typo, sorry.
 

RainDog911

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#15
Q1, Q2, Q3 and Q4 were verified by Joe to be correct.

Thanks for the clarification, Lee. I'm placing an order at Mouser as we speak.
 

jbeckva

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#16
If Q1, Q2 are MPSA 18's they're right.
If q3 and q4 are also MPS's... flat side needs to be down / opposite of q1 and q2. (I'm eyeballing Ron's barely populated board right now). Funny thing is that comparing Q3/4 between right and left channels, it seems flat sides are "up" on the right, "down" on the left.
 

RainDog911

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#17
I just verified - 18s in Q1 and Q2, left and right, flats up.

92s in Q3 and Q4, left and right, flats down, heat sinks on.
 

RainDog911

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#19
Speaking of parts from Mouser, what parts should I order to have on hand as I work on this amp. Diodes, small caps, etc. I'd much rather spend a $20 now and have a bunch of stuff on hand instead of waiting for orders.
 

jbeckva

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#20
Speaking of parts from Mouser, what parts should I order to have on hand as I work on this amp. Diodes, small caps, etc. I'd much rather spend a $20 now and have a bunch of stuff on hand instead of waiting for orders.
Got the MJ's and RCA's coming from Joe, right? Is he also shipping you mica insulators? I think I see those rubber/silpads (again.. I can't see so take it with a grain of salt, heheh). Generally the silpad type insulators are inferior to good ole mica's for several reasons. Best to get new ones with new heat sink compound applied.

Bypass caps on the bridge rectifier?

4uF caps on the back wall (goes btwn the ground that is holding down the left and right terminal / tie points and the +/- rails on each channel.. 4 total)

what else.. hmmmm
 
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