Problem w/Teac A 3300S

Fishoz

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#1
Having a problem with one of my R2R's. When rewinding the tape is shaving off the sides on the reel. Tiny, thin strips are shaved. Was working fine for awhile - developed after many uses. Could it be the reels or possible misaligned capstan (does seem a bit wobbly when rewinding).

Was thinking of selling this one but would like to have working perfectly before getting rid of it.

Sam...you around???
 

orange

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#2
If you PM him OR Nakdoc they get it in their email...

The capstan isn't probably doing the evil deed most likely, have you tried another tape (guinea pig, a blank will do and I could send you more of those) or is it more than one tape getting the guillotine?

Are you up for servicing it yourself? Both the owner's and service manuals are available on hifiengine.com (in the library, registration required). I could try and attach it here...I'm not sure my webmail likes attachments anymore...

HMMM..that worked like docking the Hindenburg. You should be a member of that site and it's sister vinylengine anyway...the 20 free file downloads a day is worth it.
 

Fishoz

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#3
Thanks Steven,

It is multiple tapes - already tried. I am at vinylengine already.

This may be going to Sam, he's close.

Not in a hurry - I have one working already. Even if I can sell this one for $50 I'd more than double my money.
 

orange

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#4
Think of me at Christmas then, Dave, my 3300-10T went kaput a long time ago and I miss it.
 

62vauxhall

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#5
Could be the hub that the reel table screws onto. I have an A3300 and it shaved the edges off at the beginnings of 7" reels. 10" were unaffected and 7" were OK once some tape was spooled off. The deck just came back from service so this was unexpected. But all it was was that the grub/set screw on the supply side hub was not tightened enough so it slipped a bit on the shaft. Had to "eyeball it" to find the right spot plus a couple trials and errors but it eliminated that problem.
 

orange

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#6
Well, whatever it is, if you are thinking of selling it later, I'm thinking of my Christmas present to myself, other than the reracking and hardware that is GONNA have to go into my bedroom.

2016-17 will see some remodeling furniturewise.
 

Fishoz

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#7
Could be the hub that the reel table screws onto. I have an A3300 and it shaved the edges off at the beginnings of 7" reels. 10" were unaffected and 7" were OK once some tape was spooled off. The deck just came back from service so this was unexpected. But all it was was that the grub/set screw on the supply side hub was not tightened enough so it slipped a bit on the shaft. Had to "eyeball it" to find the right spot plus a couple trials and errors but it eliminated that problem.
10" are being shaved, 7" are OK.

You might have something there, I'll see if I can get to it this weekend. Sounds like the exact same problem. Thanks.
 

Joetown

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#8
Think of me at Christmas then, Dave, my 3300-10T went kaput a long time ago and I miss it.
Just got a Teac 3300-10 in great condition with reels and owners manuals off ebay. I just did the preventive maintenance on it, looks like it would be to work on, they really look cool with the 10 " reels on. I've wanted one since the 1970,s. I hope you get another someday.
 

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orange

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#9
It was the transformer, I gather. I have a similar problem with a Sony ST-JX520 tuner that matches my TA-EX520 Audio/Video integrated but I can't seem to find parts info without spending $$$ as to what transformer I might need (and NO, it's not that yellow VW Bug Transformer). Thing buzzes. Every Advent 201? I ever owned eventually suffered transformer delamination as well.

Pity, because I loved it. However, I'm not that sad because I replaced it with a fully serviced Revox A 77 that a friend on Tapeheads sold me for $130. I wanted one since I was a teenager and saw them in the automation at both of our main broadcasters in the 80s.

PS Sam, you remember the other Larry (Newland) there, don't you? A really nice guy.
 

kl0neMan

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#10
I saw a couple of 3300's on ePrey very recently. I have an X-1000R that I need to replace the goo with a belt in, as well as rebuild/replace a couple of switches that will not stay in position on, as well as the 3300's smaller brother - a 2340 that is fully functional. Love those things.
 

Skywavebe

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#11
Yes, Those cheap switches cause me a lot of labor. The belt should not be a big deal as I change them all the time 16.8" from Consolidated is the way I go. Oil those flywheel bearings with AMSoil and you might get wow and flutter of .025%. I see it all the time. In the mean time, some people just stick a wood piece in to keep the switch in. The reel size switch does not do much anyway. Those A3300 decks are coming into the new cap replacement age. I have done a few of them recently and they were no fun. I lengthened some wires that I had to disconnect to get the boards turned so that the caps could be seen and removed. Plug in cards are the way to go but then card edge connector cracking all the time is no fun either.
 

orange

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#12
Why I don't have Works In A Drawer and am not fond of the Pioneer 'Communicator' or whatever series cassette decks.
 

Skywavebe

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#13
There is a guy on E bay selling compatible switches but he does not say what they are so one might have to buy some to get the name off them to figure out the part number. The actuator body ramp for locking position is breaking. You wonder who goes through all the trouble to use the wrong plastic on such a thing? Well it was the Japanese- you would think they are trying for the Transistor radio notation again. Don't these guys have any chemists there to know what plastics NOT to use- they have made many mistakes and this just adds to them. I don't hide them for anybody- Studer on down.
 

Skywavebe

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#14
If long strips of oxide are coming off that is the binder failing and if the flakes or dust is the problem then probably a tension arm of lifter is shaving the oxide due to sharp edges. The sharp edges are unlikely to take off large long oxide slivers as I have seen that come off tapes even before they are played. I have been working on a ceramic overlay for cut lifters. These would be glued on and most likely never need replacement as ceramic is harder than glass. I will announce when they are ready.
 

Fishoz

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#16
Hey Sam,
The 3300 I referenced earlier had long strips shaved off. It never had to make it to you. Sold it for $100 ($30 investment) not sugar coating the problem. Guy from SE Wi bought it.
 

Skywavebe

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#17
That was too cheap but then yours was not calibrated like mine and without my 6 month warranty. many times what seems to be working is just on the edge of a break down. That is why it is good to have them checked over as then you know it works well and most likely for a good long time.
The last A3300S I sold was $600. Mine was on speed- most are below, and wow and flutter was .035%, the pinch roller linkage was greased with Lubriplate 105 and the switches all sprayed and clean. I also recapped the whole machine as it is not that terrible to do if you are on your game.
It also got new brake pads.
I had a A2300S that was a checkover deck and it had new brakes put on but the motor on the TU side was loosing torque at certain places. I though the brake was rubbing and then I put the deck in play with the brake drum off and it still did it. I had already oiled the motor so for the second time in 45 years I took an AC motor apart. I found little gouges on the rotor that I though was rubbing on the pole pieces. Put the rotor in a drill and got my red sandpaper out and worked down the gouges until they were smooth. I did not know when I put it together but that fixed it. Might have been in there from when it was built. The right tension arm would move over to the right but if you tested the unit with your finger you could tell it was loosing torque when that happened. You come upon strange things now and then. Of course these do not usually sit in a good environment so oxidation might have added to the problem even inside the motor.
 

Skywavebe

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#18
Hi Fast,
Unlike most people I pay no attention to sports as it is usually a large waste of time. I pursue things- mostly work at my place and then pond care and other things that keep me busy. Watching rope heads run around on a field does not excite me.
 

kl0neMan

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#19
Yes, Those cheap switches cause me a lot of labor. The belt should not be a big deal as I change them all the time 16.8" from Consolidated is the way I go. Oil those flywheel bearings with AMSoil and you might get wow and flutter of .025%. I see it all the time. In the mean time, some people just stick a wood piece in to keep the switch in. The reel size switch does not do much anyway. Those A3300 decks are coming into the new cap replacement age. I have done a few of them recently and they were no fun. I lengthened some wires that I had to disconnect to get the boards turned so that the caps could be seen and removed. Plug in cards are the way to go but then card edge connector cracking all the time is no fun either.
I'v been away for a while but I did replace the belt on the X-1000R and performed some cleaning and lubrication of the pinch roller lifter, as it was not fully engaging with the capstan. I sill need to find those switches and was wondering if the ones from a 3340 would work - Saw a switch block assembly on eBay within them in it.
 

Skywavebe

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#20
No you will find out that they are nothing the same as they are from different decades. I have the X1000R switches but those bone heads in China sent me the switches on 25mm center brackets rather than 20mm so the mount bracket has to change. Otherwise they are the same switch the guy on E bay sells for $20 each. Don't buy random parts and why would you want a 30 to 40 year old switch assembly? The wrong mount bracket will stop me from selling them. If there can be a mistake made the Chinese will find a way to make it.
 
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