Hmmmmmm...........

orange

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#3
R2, might you extrapolate that? I'm afraid his binary condenser has malfunctioned!
 

orange

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#4
What in God's name is that ICBM killer?
 

orange

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#8
Okay.

Since I ate a Walmart footlong chicken and bacon sandwich from the foodbank Tuesday, ran my glucose up to 402, took my insulin and slept in until 10 pm (104 now), I musta missed a few things.

To what?
 

Pure_Brew

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#12
I was looking at some Nelson pass designs for the DIY, he does add some flavor in his commentary. He mentioned something about people feeling like they often need to add more to there amplifiers which was fine, but didn't feel it was needed. There must be a way to figure it out more specifically from an engineering point of view, rather then arbitrarily adding more.
 

Fairchild

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#13
I believe that there are different views on amplifier topography, I for one do not know enough to try. To me each designer has his own thoughts and the sound of an amplifier to me generally reflects the designers technique.

Oddly enough I run two differnt power amps, the Adcom 585 Nelson Pass and the Hafler 500 would be David Hafler, then throw in the preamp which is GAS's James Bongiorno , all with different views to sound reproduction.

Jim
 
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Pure_Brew

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#14
No doubt that a bit more is better then not enough in this case. Oh and omg, this is for one channel!?!. If it doesn't end up sounding delicious, could double as an arc welder?

=)

this is very impressive! HULK SMASH YOUR PUNY AMP!
 

laatsch55

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#15
Okay.

Since I ate a Walmart footlong chicken and bacon sandwich from the foodbank Tuesday, ran my glucose up to 402, took my insulin and slept in until 10 pm (104 now), I musta missed a few things.

To what?

To my " Joseph King Signature Series" "White Oak-Laatsch Linear" Mono blocks.
 
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laatsch55

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#17
How do you determine how much is needed?

Joe, the sane school of rational thought according to G. Randy Sloan is 1,000uf for every 10 watts of output power, per voltage rail. Meaning 1,000 for each 10 watts on each +,- rail. For a hundred watt amp that would be 10,000uf for each rail or 20,000uf total.
 

laatsch55

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#18
I was looking at some Nelson pass designs for the DIY, he does add some flavor in his commentary. He mentioned something about people feeling like they often need to add more to there amplifiers which was fine, but didn't feel it was needed. There must be a way to figure it out more specifically from an engineering point of view, rather then arbitrarily adding more.
Mr. Sloan and Mr. Pass would laugh at that power supply, unmtil they knew what it was going to power and then say it was still twice what was needed. On the Spec 2, from the factory at a rated 250 per into 8, it has 80,000uf total. More than the "Rule of Thumb", which would be 50,000uf total.


So now we come to the "Crux of the Biscuit".. I too have wondered what the effect if any excess capacitance has on the power supply and reproduction of source material. That power supply is for one channel on the 1.5KW monster. It is going to pull prototype duty on the built from scratch mono-blocks from a Joe board in 700 mode. This trannie is a little hotter than a stock 700 hottie, like about 110+.- volts DC at the rails , so this should be awfully close to 600 per. The stock power supply for these should be 600 watts = 60 X 10, so 60 times 1,000uf +60,000 times 2 = 120,000 uf TOTAL, FOR A STEREO configuration. I'm only twice what is needed. I think I'm showing remarkable restraint.
 

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#19
And the REAL reason behind all this???????? Besides seeing if I can actually do it--------------How quiet can they get. Signal to noise ratio. With a mono bloc-- no crosstalk, zero, zilch, nada. That removes that variable from the equation. So then we are left with , #1--Topology, the single most responsible factor to noise. #2-- Component selection, hard to be quiet with semi-conductors of certain ilk shouting all the time, #3 Layout and Construction Technique, we have some control over this area, which is what this little experiment is all about.
 

Pure_Brew

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#20
Is there something to allow for a slower turn on? I would imagine that it would drop voltage in the house pretty hard at turn on no?
 
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