Could these be factory fuses or someone's substitutes?

62vauxhall

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#1
I swapped out a tube receiver near my computer desk for a Sony TA-1150 integrated. I've had the Sony maybe a year and a half and it was working OK when I last had it hooked up. It was functional but not 100% when I got it. The balance control was reversed but I corrected that.

After hooking it up again a few days ago I was playing a CD or tape. When whatever it was ended, the amp stayed on, idling for a half hour or so. There was then a soft thump from the left speaker and I discovered that channel was out. A bit later and I see the pilot lamp had now gone out. Earlier today I took off the cover and saw two power fuses, both blown.

Their values are labled at the holders but that's not exactly what the value of the fuses were. Supposed to be 1.6A but what I removed were 2A.

And the holders look a bit fishy to me. I know some fuses had and maybe some still do, pigtails at the ends which were the case with those I took out. Since this amp had been molested prior to me getting it, I wondered of the fuse holders were altered and 2A pigtail equipped fuses got substituted for 1.6A coventionial ones. My thought was that the repairer had those on hand and were "close enough".

Might those 2A fuses been "hacked in"?

I don't have two 1.6A fuses, only one. Maybe I can get a few and the local repair shop on Monday, put in new ones and see what happens to them when the amp is plugged into a DBT.

IMG_4708.JPG IMG_4709.JPG
 

grapplesaw

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#2
Gary that looks like it takes a bosch fuse that had pointy ends. They were ceramic core with fuse link the 12 system in my old car years ago. What I suspect you need look like the ends on the photo attached. if you have other standard fuse holderS you can sub in then that might be best.
 

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62vauxhall

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#3
Thanks Glen. That makes sense, I'd forgotten about that type of fuse. The holders sure do look like that was what they were made for.

I don't think I have any conventional fuse holders, I'll rummage around for a look. I'd figured that would be the case - replacing fuse holders.

If I don't have any, I'll jury rig something temporary for the time being just to have fuses in place. To observe how fast they blow after turn on and if a DBT keeps them intact.
 

grapplesaw

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#4
They may have blowen due to not being held properly and having bad contact. Why not just solder some pig tails between new fuses and the holders. Easy change later if hey blow. Good luck
 

62vauxhall

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#5
Those removed were soldered in pretty well but what you suggest is easy enough. Will give that a go once I get some new fuses. Always think I’ll get an end cap hot enough to disconnect the fuse element. But I’ll be quick.

The times like this, being in need of a fuse, reminds me of some stuff used in high school electronics class. Probably called Fuse Wire.

Was on a roll like solder and looked/felt like thin solder. However much fuse value you needed dictated how many lengths went between the fuse terminals.

Something like that would be handy in a situation like this.
 

grapplesaw

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#6
Gary Phase linear all the 700’s used that wire for the meter supply fuse. It’s in the terminal strip for power. See attached.

I once got a dual 500 with wires soldered across the fuse holders. I guess they had a better idea back then. The amp was toast when I got it so you can decide if it was or not. Last two photos E187DBF6-378C-4A11-BD50-13D594FD73F4.jpeg 5CDC2C93-05BE-466A-B445-8C2FECD76570.png 5A148A45-2D1A-4BEE-A3AA-21FC43D58732.png E187DBF6-378C-4A11-BD50-13D594FD73F4.jpeg 5CDC2C93-05BE-466A-B445-8C2FECD76570.png 5A148A45-2D1A-4BEE-A3AA-21FC43D58732.png
 

62vauxhall

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#7
I can understand the meter application but the reason for that wire in conjunction with a fuse holder escapes me.
 

George S.

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#9
Looks like they were bypassing the fuse, similar to a "fusible link" such as were used on many 90s GM cars. Short piece of finer gauge wire in series with the circuit, acts as a slow blow fuse. Common failure point on the starter wiring connections in the rust belt due to road salt attacking the splice.
Back in the old days before E-commerce it was very common to jumper a fuse, or wrap fine gauge wire strands around a blown fuse and reinsert it. That's one of the reasons so many automotive fuses are found in old amps. Specialized parts were hard and slow to source.
Before I built my WOPLs I went online and bought all new fuses for my multimeters. Reason being they all had blown fuses with fine copper strands across them.
Sometimes you've just got to do what you've got to do.
 

Gepetto

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#10
Gary Phase linear all the 700’s used that wire for the meter supply fuse. It’s in the terminal strip for power. See attached.

I once got a dual 500 with wires soldered across the fuse holders. I guess they had a better idea back then. The amp was toast when I got it so you can decide if it was or not. Last two photos View attachment 48395 View attachment 48396 View attachment 48397 View attachment 48395 View attachment 48396 View attachment 48397
One of the bean counters recommended that Glen :)
 

62vauxhall

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#14
My bits 'n' pieces arrived yesterday including some conventional fuse clips and fuses. Small job, straight forward but very time consuming. Soldered a machine screw to each fuse clip, drilled holes in the board material, bolted fuse clips in place and soldered the wires onto the excess threaded length protruding from the back

Main amp board is still uninstalled but the pilot lamp light lit up!

IMG_4741.JPG IMG_4738.JPG
 
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Skywavebe

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#15
Very good job. That is the way I would have done it and the reason I keep old fuse boards around in case I need a clip terminal for a fuse off it.
There are some people that break them and a one sides fuse clip does not a lot of good.
 

Skywavebe

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#20
Well what do you expect from the Nazi Facebook. I have been hit too. They even removed one of my posts for saying I only had 5000 rounds. They are idiots.
 
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