Advise Needed - Gain Pot and Deoxit

VSAT88

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#61
I like the blue acoustic panel!
They are extremely high tech. You would do yourself well to include those in your set up. They are made in an oxygen free environment of the finest quality freshly hand picked cotton. They use “Counter Spiralling Geometry” and “Spread Spectrum Technology” in the making. It allows your system to provide "considerably better transparency and dynamics” and that “Pure Perfect-Surface eliminates harshness and greatly increases clarity”. Only one problem, the cost. It way on up there of course.

https://www.harborfreight.com/72-inch-x-80-inch-movers-blanket-66537.html
 

laatsch55

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#64
They are extremely high tech. You would do yourself well to include those in your set up. They are made in an oxygen free environment of the finest quality freshly hand picked cotton. They use “Counter Spiralling Geometry” and “Spread Spectrum Technology” in the making. It allows your system to provide "considerably better transparency and dynamics” and that “Pure Perfect-Surface eliminates harshness and greatly increases clarity”. Only one problem, the cost. It way on up there of course.

https://www.harborfreight.com/72-inch-x-80-inch-movers-blanket-66537.html
LOL!!!!
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#65
Perry that is one fine example there. It seems to be in excellent condition. No wonder you cant wait to get it all back together. Care to share how you de solder those hole thru solder joints ? I have had little luck with those.

"Hole Through" Solder Joint????


HUH

Never heard of such a thing and I been through the schools
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#67
Boards that are soldered all the way through. I suppose I do not know the correct terminology. I guess I said it backward. Like this.

https://www.circuitrework.com/guides/8-1-1.html

I have tried all sorts of ways but never seem to get it right. Maybe I need to buy a de soldering iron ??

All Joes boards are "Through Hole" boards (done hundreds). When soldering, it's all in the heat and flux. There are several methods for desoldering and all of them CAN cause damage if done incorrectly. Some boards can handle heat for 2 seconds, some for 10 seconds. There isn't enough room here or time to go through each scenario. This is the reason we had to get certified yearly to repair boards in the Navy. It's an art all by itself.
 

J!m

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#69
True dat. Aragon boards delaminated from the factory. Crap.

One technique I use for rework on the industrial boards is to get the solder molten and then blast it out with compressed air. Makes a mess, might get a burn, but it clears the hole so the busted crap can come out to make way for shiny new crap.

Most likely not found in any proper technique manual. Anywhere.
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#70
Boards that are soldered all the way through. I suppose I do not know the correct terminology. I guess I said it backward. Like this.

https://www.circuitrework.com/guides/8-1-1.html

I have tried all sorts of ways but never seem to get it right. Maybe I need to buy a de soldering iron ??

De soldering iron (The vacuum type??), I don't use them. They cause damage if used incorrectly. I see guys use too much pressure and they push too hard on the pads and then the pads and through hole plating separate/collapse and if you have never repaired one with pads and eyelets and have a self caused failure, yer screwed. Setting eyelets is a PITA if you don't have the right equipment. There are tricks for desoldering.
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#71
True dat. Aragon boards delaminated from the factory. Crap.

One technique I use for rework on the industrial boards is to get the solder molten and then blast it out with compressed air. Makes a mess, might get a burn, but it clears the hole so the busted crap can come out to make way for shiny new crap.

Most likely not found in any proper technique manual. Anywhere.

Blasting out molten solder is NOT advised. We've taken dumb-asses who tried this to the hospital to have that shit removed from their eyes. That's for untrained rookies
 

J!m

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#72
Read the same thing J!m I would love to hear one.
I want to build a pair of the KSA-50s as 100-watt class-A push-pull monoblocks. Balanced input only. Basically exactly what I’m doing with my counterpoints now. But Krelliscious. It should push 400 into 2 ohms and remain in class -A without going Chernobyl.
 

VSAT88

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#74
One day I am going to have to figure it out. I have read about the repair eyelets. I have tried several ways of de soldering through hole board components I found on the net just never found a constant way of not eventually damaging a board. As far as the boards that solder on one side only I have been doing those for a pretty long time with constant good results. Thanks for the pointers Perry !
 
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