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Couldn't wait for veneering the cabinets. Had to test'em. I. Am. Pleased. I really like the magnet mod.

Got the cones installed. Just got to wait for a full cure on the epoxy and solder to the terminals. Glue down the surrounds and run some test tones.

I started using tung oil refinishing M1 stocks as a hobby as that was the original finish before Japan cut off supply during the war. Once cured, it is very hard, waterproof, and easily repaired if damaged. The 2 biggest destroyers of speaker enclosures are children and liquids. Both are...

The 127h model woofers for certain. I'd like to try it on the 125a in my L36's, but I don't know if I'm that brave. :p

The original cones had black Aquaplas applied to the face of the cone which increased the mass and stiffness of the cone. I can't say with absolute certainty that this is Aquaplas, but I got it from ebay and the first coat has improved the stiffness of the new cones which is what is required.

Thanks. Going for full red oak veneer. Magnets under veneer to hold the grill. Golden oak stain and Tung oil to match the L36's I rebuilt.

Currently applying first coat of Aquaplas to the cones in prep for reconing. Don't know which dustcap look I like best. Innie or outtie?

Stripped the veneer to repair the cabinets.

Picked these up acouple months back. Kept me busy when I was waiting on parts for my WOPL build.

Thanks Joe. Happy 4th.

Nope, checked them naked. Saving money for my next full WOPL-400.:oops:

Goes to the quality of Joe's kit. First kit I ever built. The documentation provided was complete and detailed. Having this forum also answered questions with all the pics available to help understand the routing. I'll spend today connecting the faceplate. Then burn in time. Not sure the wife...

All power transistors installed. Rail voltage stable at -75.7 and 75.7vdc. Bias dialed in to 350.1 mvdc. DC on output: L ch. - 000.4mvdc, R ch 000.1mvdc

That is a great idea!

Back plane check complied with. First row of outputs installed, checks complied with. Bias for left channel - .350 vdc no adjustment required. Right channel - .345, adjusted to .350 vdc. Installed control board - all resistance checks good. Powered up - both rail voltages dropped from +- 81 vdc...

Got a couple unneeded 100k pots. They should work.

Cap - checks good, underwear not so much. Now, how critical is it to put that 10k resistor across each channel? Not something I happen to have available at the moment.

Powered up for the first time today. No shorts, no sparks, no errors...then I powered down and started to do the discharge step...oops...

75 watt bulb works like a champ. Built my DBT this afternoon. Tried it on a known good amp. Acts like a soft start circuit.

Would you float the shield or ground to the chassis? I went this route because the coax center conductor just wasn't substantial enough to take any stress if moved much.