PL 3300 Series II rebuild/upgrade

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#61
I thought about using the heat sink holes, but they didn't really line up with open spots on the bottom board. But the large open spot on your board, just coincidentally, lined up nicely and allowed for the single hole, without getting close to the traces. I don't think I've used RTV, unless it's that two goo stuff you need to mix up, or that stuff Gorilla sells in a side by side syringe dispenser, or something like JB Weld, both of which I've used on many projects. But I tested the hot glue on an old board, with a nylon stand-off, and it was plenty strong enough. I'll be very interested in seeing what your testing produces.
 

scottonnob

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#62
Pretty well finished with the top of the board. I still have to install Dennis' phono stage modification and change out the OP. Also need to permanently mount Perry's board, but I wanted to post a couple pictures and my components list, just in case one of you can spot a mistake. I'm posting the parts list in case someone else wants to mirror what I gleaned from Dennis, Lee, Perry, and, of course, Joe. Plus, if anyone sees something they don't agree with, we can make changes to the list, just so it's out there.

C4 — 1000μF, 50V*
C6 — 1000μF, 50V*
C7 — 470μF, 50V*
C8 — 470μF, 50V*
C9 — 22μF, 50V*
C10 — 22μF, 50V*
C11 — 22μF, 50V*
C12 — 22μF, 50V*
C13 — 47μF, 50V
C14 — 470μF, 50V*
C101 — Open for mod.*
C102 — 100pF, 63V*
C103 — .0027μF, 2700pF, 100V*
C105 — 2.2μF, 50V*
C106 — 4.7 μF, 50V*
C107 — 0.68μF, 63V*
C108 — 10pF, 300V*
C109 — 680pF, 100V*
C110 — 680pF, 100V*
C114 — 33pF, 1000V*
C115 — 33pF, 1000V*

3300Q1 — 5.jpg

C116 — 0.47μF, 63 V*
C117 — 22μF, 50V*
C118 — 22μF, 50V*
C119 — 0.47μF, 63 V*
C120 — 22μF, 50V*
C121 — 22μF, 50V*
C201 — Open for mod*.
C202 — 100pF, 63V*
C203 — .0027μF, 2700pF, 100V*
C205 — 2.2μF, 50V*
C206 — 4.7μF, 50V*
C207 — 0.68μF, 63V*
C208 — 10pF, 300V*
C209 — 680pF, 100V*
C210 — 680pF, 100V*
C214 — 33pF, 1000V*
C215 — 33pF, 1000V*
C216 — 0.47μF, 63 V*

3300Q1 — 6.jpg

C217 — 22μF, 50V*
C218 — 22μF, 50V*
C219 — 0.47μF, 63 V*
C220 — 22μF, 50V*
C221 — 22μF, 50V*

3300Q1 — 3.jpg

R101 — 330 Ω, .5W, 1%*
R102 — 1.0k Ω, .5W, 1%*
R103 — 47k Ω, .5W, 1%*
R104 — 330 Ω, .5W, 1%*
R201 — 330 Ω, .5W, 1%*
R202 — 1.0k Ω, .5W, 1%*
R203 — 47k Ω, .5W, 1%*
R204 — 330 Ω, .5W, 1%*

3300Q1 — 4.jpg
 
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#63
I've been out of the country working for quite a while and, therefore, was unable to work on any of the projects I'd started before I left. However, I've been back for about a month now, and I immediately resurrected my 3300 project. I tried to bring it up today, of course, with a dim bulb tester. Everything turns on fine, but there is a signal only to one channel, and even that signal is so weak I have to turn the volume up all the way to get just a whisper of music. The other channel appears dead, even after swapping channels with the cord, swapping cords, and swapping channels out of the amp. Additionally, when the unit turns on with speakers hooked to it and connected to the amp, on power-up, both woofer cones suck back toward the magnet, and then slowly return to normal position. Now, this pre never worked properly. Someone gave it to me because it wasn't working. When I powered it up, before I ever took it apart, it did the same thing to the speakers, alternately sucking and releasing the driver cones toward the magnets. Also, there has always been a problem with the power switch. I cleaned and nursed it, but it only stays on. The switch clicks when the button is depressed, but it doesn't disengage and it doesn't hold the button back in the on position. The button always jumps back to the off position, even though the power remains on. The leds are all on/lighted up, but there is something terribly wrong. But nearly every part is brand new, other than the switches and the transformer. Any thoughts? Obviously, I need to swap out the power switch, if I can find a replacement, but I'm doubtful that's the source of the problem.
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#64
gotta ask whats up with that power switch? Don't believe I have seen one wired like that. Also, what are your voltages looking like when you measure them at the opamp? Do you have + and - 15 vdc LED lights on the power supply board? The on off switch is available on ebay. Do you have the correct opamps in it and do the pin outs match the skizmo?
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#66
again, cant tell by your pics but R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 should still be on the main board..... Cut the run to inject the +15 at D1, R1, C1, and C4 junction
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#72
Spent the day mounting the board Perry got to me. I'd already installed the wiring when I was soldering in other parts on the board. I had some threaded 1" nylon stand-offs laying around, but there really isn't enough meat on the PL board in that area to allow for drilling without risking hitting a trace. So I just hot glued the stand-off, then drilled Perry's board and ran a #6 screw in there. Many thanks again to Perry. I still can't believe he only charged me around $10 for the board, and he tells me he has a couple more left, if any of you guys are interested.

Also, it was really nice to plug in the OPA 2134's Dennis was generous enough to sell me. He's a great asset for parts.

View attachment 31857

View attachment 31858

View attachment 31859

View attachment 31860

View attachment 31861

Yep, R1, and R3 need to be in the circuit, I believe it is hooked up wrong.
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#73
The output of the Bridge (D1 and D4 meet, lift those ends from the board) need to go to the +Unreg in on the power supply module, the +out would go to one side of R1 where C1, D5 and C4 meet.

The -unreg needs to work the same.

R1, and R3 need to be in the circuit to provide VCC2 (VCC1- whatever the R1 drops), and R3 needs to be in the circuit to provide VEE2 (VEE1- whatever the resistor R3 drops)
 
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#74
Last question, does the sound from the headphones seem OK? this can help eliminate the output relays
Okay, first test: yes, the headphone jack seems to be working, but the volume has to be turned up higher than I would have expected, well over half way up for just listening volume. So I'm getting headphone signal, but something still seems amiss. But the signal to the headphones sounds good, once the volume is turned up to what should be brain damage level.
 
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#75
gotta ask whats up with that power switch? Don't believe I have seen one wired like that. Also, what are your voltages looking like when you measure them at the opamp? Do you have + and - 15 vdc LED lights on the power supply board? The on off switch is available on ebay. Do you have the correct opamps in it and do the pin outs match the skizmo?
The leds are on.
 

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#80
easy way? lift the cathode of D1 and D4, hook to +unreg in. and lift anodes of D2 and D3, and hook to -unreg in. replace R1 and R3, and hook + reg out to input side of R1, and -reg out to input side of R3
 
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