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Thread: 400 LED VU shadow bar

  1. #11
    Forum Veteran marcok's Avatar
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    Use 3mm. leds. ( like original nut bulbs )
    If you use this type of leds (less than 20 mA ) , you must replace the 8 resistors .
    Don't worry , it took me 3 days to find the right color
    according my personal taste .
    Anyway disconnect a VU and test the color inserting only one led .
    Use a 1 kOhm resitor in series and external power supply with regulator ,
    like a model train power pack .
    Besides ,gently moving the led, you should find the reason of the shadow.
    Ciao and have good job .
    Marco

  2. #12
    Administrator Gepetto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calman46 View Post
    I did it to Joes LEDs on the board and it soften the light but the shadow is still there . Do I need to scuff of LED more ? It looks frosted now .
    You need the LEDs to be as far into the meter lens as possible so you get total internal reflection off the inside of the lens front surface as described in the installation notes.

    1. Usethe nylon washers provided to space the Light Board off of the back of themeter such that the round body of the LEDs just kisses or is slightly off ofthe front plastic jewel lens. Gettingthe LEDs as close to the lens as possible without crushing or bending the LEDsor LED leads against the lens helps to maximize the light dispersion via totalinternal reflection against the meter lens inner surface. A dozen #6 x 1/16 thick washers have beenprovided for this purpose. Mostapplications require either one or two nylon washers stacked on each screw studunder the light board and above the meter case to get the recommended LED spacing. Put the last 4 nylon washers on top of theLight Board before installing the hex nuts provided to prevent scuffing of thePCB surface. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTSON THE METER STUDS. A gentle tighteningis all that is required.

  3. #13
    Forum Veteran marcok's Avatar
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Phase-Linea...MAAOxy83JRGiDc
    My system removes the shadows due the 2 internal screws of the VU .
    Are the same shadows ? Or is a horizontal shadow .It worked soon ( 10 s per led ) .
    Probably there was a mismatch .Sorry !
    Ciao
    Marco

  4. #14
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    I bought my LED board kit a while ago not sure it came with washers (I can check). What I did was to put the LEDs (clear 3mm) straight in ,back them of the white diffuser and soldered. I didn't change the resistors . Do you think the LEDs will burn out? My meters now have a soft light no shadow . I did lined the 3 sides inside of the of the VU lens with chrome foil thinking it might reflect the light , I did them both so I'm not sure if it did anything. The original LEDs are bent at 90 at the bottom of the LED lens which puts them to low on the VU face(scale) and the edge of the VU face causes the shadow. I was going to try bending the LEDs at 90 further away from the LED lens so they would be higher inside the meter and pass the edge of the VU face . I still might .But I don't want the bright spots either . Boy am I fussy . See pictures how mine look now .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #15
    Forum Veteran marcok's Avatar
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    The shadow on the left VU is not O.K.
    In my unit it disappeared soon after sending . It's due to the screw inside the VU .
    I used the 90 degree position like original .
    For resistors I can't answer , because I don't know the max current of your Leds .
    Welcome to the world of lighting !
    It' necessary much patience . I have experience with model rail roading and
    and I can guarantee that is a very difficult matter .
    Ciao
    Marco

  6. #16
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    The LEDs I'm using are rated @ 5mA to 18mA at this ebay listing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/150pcs-3mm-...item543087b8fd . There are no screws exposed to cast shadows on my meters . Do you have bright spots from the 90 degree bend ?

  7. #17
    Forum Veteran marcok's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is a Dynaco VU , but the design is more or less the same .
    Look at the 2 screws near the coil . They are the culprits .
    For leds I used the same shape of original kit : 90 , same height , same depth . It's perfect .
    You must replace the 8 180 Ohms resistors with 330 Ohms .The original kit has been designed for 20mA . Check with Joe
    to be safer .
    Ciao
    Marco

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